My new revolver

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by castile, Feb 21, 2021.

  1. castile

    castile Member

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    I know she is a bit rough but I think she will work fine. I only paid 10 bucks so if I don't fix it I will hang is somewhere I would not otherwise hang a gun. iver Johnson.JPG
     
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  2. Sistema1927

    Sistema1927 Member

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    Ought to get you $100 bucks at one of them guv'mint "buy backs". They can then brag that they got another weapon of death off the streets.
     
  3. Milt1

    Milt1 Member

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    All it needs are grips
     
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  4. castile

    castile Member

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    It has grips I took them off to remove the rust.
     
  5. Tallball

    Tallball Member

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  6. ontarget

    ontarget Member

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    Heck. For 10 singles you did pretty good. I'm sure it's worth more than that for parts alone.
     
  7. wcwhitey

    wcwhitey Member

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    I would pay $10 just to see if I could save it, nice project.
     
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  8. WheelGunMan

    WheelGunMan Member

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    A little background on it please.
     
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  9. castile

    castile Member

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    My wife had to use a bathroom and there was an antique store near by. So as I was wondering around there was a case with this in it for 10 bucks. I thought Heck even if only clean it up and sell it to someone who has need of it to repair or hang it on the wall in my garage. This AM a lot of the rust is off sitting in White vinegar. over night. It needs a hammer, hand, hand spring and the ejector, and a hammer spring. I can not tell if its 32 or 38 S&W, I thought it looked a bit big for a 32 but will mic it today. The firing pin is fine, and it was hard as heck to get it open but after sitting in vinegar over night the spring on the barrel release is now functioning again. If the parts are not too much I don't think I would refinish but only get it working. Next step is let it set in break fluid over night. Then try to tear it down.
     
  10. the Black Spot

    the Black Spot Member

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    Very cool find!
    Wouldn't you need a baking soda rinse to neutralize the vinegar? Or will the brake fluid handle that?
     
  11. tark

    tark Member

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    How many parts do you have that aren't in the pic? Do you have the hammer spring?
     
  12. castile

    castile Member

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    I think a good rinse off will work. Even salt comes off nice in water. I checked the bore and it measures .355 so 38 S&W I think. Got it all apart after the vinegar bath. Now its in the oil. I think 60 bucks worth of parts and I can have it working.
     
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  13. castile

    castile Member

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    Tark as far as parts here is what I have. Some of the pins and screws that hold the trigger on I have in a zip lock bag but for actual larger parts this is what I have.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. ApacheCoTodd

    ApacheCoTodd Member

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    I've made some great gate and shed-door handles out of point-of-no-return guns like that.

    Top-break craptackular relics beyond any saving are thick on the ground in Arizona.

    Todd.
     
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  15. AK103K

    AK103K member

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    If you dont get it working, its not a total loss, eBay of all places, can help you out.:thumbup:

    I sold off about a half dozen guns like that there a few years back. Just disassemble them completely, and sell the parts as a lot (no frame). I got between $40 and $100 for those parts, depending on the gun and the shape it was in.
     
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  16. Speedo66

    Speedo66 Member

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    What brand is it, the usual H&R, Iver Johnson, or an actual S&W? Wish I knew more about them so I could determine that myself.
     
  17. castile

    castile Member

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    Its an Iver Johnson and cycle works. I never knew IJ sold and made bicycles.
     
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  18. castile

    castile Member

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    So I believe this is an old model. Even though it has the two ear latch. The parts seem to be old model. So far I bought a set of grips and a hammer. Numrich does not have many parts so I am looking at places like eBay. It will be a long term project. Not sure how to finish it if at all. The bore is not really all that bad. Not sure what putting nickel plate on it would cost. Or if I should just cold blue it after removing the nickel what is left. If anyone has any extra parts for the 38 old model I would be interested. DSC05261.JPG
     
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  19. Monac

    Monac Member

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    If that's an Iver Johnson, then it is a Second Model, made from 1896 to 1908, because it seems to be made for flat spring to power the hammer. (The First Model had a different top catch, and the Third Model used a coil hammer spring). The Second Model was made in the largest numbers and would be the easiest to get parts for, although also the least valuable.

    It would be an interesting project to fix, although not much more, IMO. These things were made in huge numbers, and as ApacheCoTodd says, a lot of them are still around. For $10, it's a nice relic.
     
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  20. castile

    castile Member

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    So I got the parts and the secret service parts did indeed fit. The gun is working now but the cylinder screw is worn enough that it pushes the cyl off so you have to hold it as the ejector pops off. Still works double and single action now. DSC05351.JPG DSC05352.JPG DSC05352.JPG DSC05351.JPG
     
  21. Targa

    Targa Member

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    Very nice!!!
     
  22. SwampWolf

    SwampWolf Member

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    Looks like somebody took "hammering the hammer" very seriously on this revolver. It'd be interesting to know the history of the gun but, for ten bucks, you should've at least gotten adjustable sights with it. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2021
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  23. Johnm1

    Johnm1 Member

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    Regarding the cylinder retention, According to Bill Goforth (RIP)

    “most first models and all second models use the threaded cylinder bushing to retain cylinder (1895-1908). when the thrid model was introduced in 1909 one of the changes was an automatic cylinder stop was added. these use the rectanglar postive stop and the cylinder stop is a seperate part. in 1911 a new type of cylinder retainer was introduced, having a lug on the bottom of the forcing cone that had to be match up to a slot on the cylinder bushing. this is very postive and did away with the threads on the cylinder bushing which tended to wear with age.”

    Copied from https://www.thefirearmsforum.com/threads/iver-johnson-32-cylinder-differences.85568/

    So if yours is a second model, once installed the cylinder has to be rotated in the direction opposite of normal rotation to drop down into its final position. I assume you got to this point as I don’t think one can close the cylinder unless you reach the fully installed position.

    These are fun revolvers and I have a few of them as well as a couple H&R, H&A, and a Forehand. I’ll try to look over some of my IJ’s tonight to see if I can glean a possible solution. Don’t hold your breath though.

    Hope that helps.
     
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  24. AZAndy

    AZAndy Member

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    I'm really impressed that you were able to collect the parts and get that put together. I hereby award you the Serious Person Certificate for March. Hats off, gentlemen!
     
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  25. GeoDudeFlorida

    GeoDudeFlorida Member

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    Seconded!
     
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