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Neck sizer dies - Do you still lube the body?

Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by MinnMooney, Apr 12, 2007.

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  1. MinnMooney

    MinnMooney Member

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    I just bought a Redding neck sizer bushing die and am wonder if I still have to lube the body of my brass or just the neck.
     
  2. joneb

    joneb Member

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    I don't lube either :)
     
  3. scrat

    scrat Member

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    if you are using spray lube. spray a quick burst in the die. Then later on if they start to require a lot of force then spray it again
     
  4. jr81452

    jr81452 Member

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    i use a little die wax on the first case neck and mouth. then i don't bother for about 50 rounds or so.
     
  5. USSR

    USSR Member

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    MM,

    No need to lube the body on a neck sizing die, since the die does not touch the body. If you have the Redding TiN coated bushings like I do, you don't even have to lube the necks.

    Don
     
  6. Idano

    Idano Member

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    I have a RCBS die and I don't lube for my 22-250, there is just not enough surface to justify lubing. However, I do use Nu Finish in my media so my casings are nice and polished and might have a little residue wax on them, maybe.
     
  7. brickeyee

    brickeyee Member

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    "No need to lube the body on a neck sizing die, since the die does not touch the body."

    It does touch the body but is large enough to not preform any sizing.
    The main bearing point is on the shoulder (if you are using the competition dies).
     
  8. USSR

    USSR Member

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    By "touch", I mean "size". No need to lube any part of a case that isn't being resized.

    Don
     
  9. MinnMooney

    MinnMooney Member

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    Thanks, gents, for the info.
    I'll also be using a Redding Deluxe die set which has both the F.L. & neck sizing dies so that's why I was wondering. I might try the wax on the 1st neck and then hold off until I feel any resistance of the ram handle before waxing another.
    Thanks again
     
  10. ranger335v

    ranger335v Member

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    Minn, use a little lube on your case necks. Running dry brass thru dry steel WILL result in galling, where bits of brass will stick to the steel. It will start slowly and accellerate rapidly, collecting more bits of brass on the steel and making scratches on your case necks. The stuck-on brass can be cleaned off but its better not to have it in the first place.

    You won't ever feel much, if any difference, in lever resisance as it occurs.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2007
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