Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by cardinalorange, Apr 21, 2021.
4.6 gr HP38 behind a 158 FMJ
You can chuck it up in a drill and use some emory cloth to reduce the diameter.
Why don't you want to roll crimp? That's the correct answer.
Because the bullets I have don't have a cannelure and I don't want to have to find a new supplier... So because I'm lazy
I'm currently using a hornady PTX, but I'll measure it. I do have a separate flare die I can use if the PTX is causing the issue. I guess my bigger question was "Does 38 special have to be roll crimped, or is it something in my tooling causing the taper crimp to not be good enough. (specifically when referring to lever guns)"
I've had this happen when loading a friend's mixed brass, and the cases with insufficient neck tension were all R-P. Running it through my Redding Dual Ring Carbide Sizer solved the problem.
FWIW: increasing crimp, especially with non-jacketed bullets, will only make your neck tension issue worst...due to the amount of spring back of the brass as opposed to the lead
I use R-P brass for cast lead bullets that are sized at .358"-.3585" it works well for that. R-P brass with .357" bullets is hit or miss for me.
especially in a lever gun
find some bullets with a good crimp groove, or cannelure
Either the sizer is to big (ID), or the expander is too big (OD), or some of both, or the brass is to thin for the sizer.
Size some cases, don’t expand them, seat a couple of bullets, and see if neck tension is OK. If it is, the expander is too big.
I have three .38 Spl sizers because my first one was to big for thin brass.
So I tried this, zero crimp and zero flare, and it actually seems to have solved it. I am guessing I am either not crimping accurately after flaring, or the process of flaring and then crimping is causing it to lose neck tension- If I try to flare and not crimp it loses it (which makes sense), and if I don't flare and crimp it does (which is over crimping). without flaring these it's more difficult to get the bullet started, but I'd rather have them work. I'll play with less flaring and less crimping and see if I can find a sweet spot
As said, measure your expander, it should be substantially smaller than the bullet.
Then why would it work with the flaring station removed? I would expect that if this was the case then removing the flare would have zero impact (because the expander had made the entire case too big).
I have a full length sizing die, then a PTX. If I remove the PTX entirely, the problem goes away. I'm going to try adding the actual case flare die I have instead of using the PTX and seeing if the problem still exists.
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