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Need quick advice on possible trade......

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by MIL-DOT, Mar 30, 2010.

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  1. MIL-DOT

    MIL-DOT member

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    A freind of mine that I've done a few deals with is vying for my old Gen.1 Glock 17 that I paid $389 for back about 1987. He's offering an even older Smith & Wesson Victory model .38, with U.S. navy stamping on the top strap.
    The S&W is parkerized, with lanyard ring ,plain walnut grips,dates about 1942 with the "V" serial number,and is in excellent condition. They were supposedly only issued to Navy and Marine pilots during WWII. I'm still digging up info on-line.
    This is not the later "S" version that had the hammer block installed.
    The Glock is in great condition with very few rounds through it, but I've had it for years and it's no longer one of my favorite toys, (I'd much prefer the smaller G19) and this WWII collectible has long had my eye.
    I saw one on Gunsamerica a little while ago, going for $850 ( keeping in mind people ask some crazy prices on GA ).
    I'm leaning toward doing this deal tomorrow,unless I get good reason not to, so any and all advice, much appreciated.......
     
  2. LRS_Ranger

    LRS_Ranger Member

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    I don't know anything about the value, but I would do the trade. I would rather have an old wheelgun than a glock any day.
     
  3. JimGnitecki

    JimGnitecki Member

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    I guess I agree. The Glock can be replaced anytime with another Glock. That revolver is a piece of history as well as a functional firearm, and has considerably more "class".

    Jim G
     
  4. WC145

    WC145 Member

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    Give it some thought, there's a lot of counterfeit victory guns out there.

    Of course, if you really want the old .38 go for it. Glocks are a dime a dozen, it's not like you can't replace it.
     
  5. captain awesome

    captain awesome Member

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    what they said. An old smith revolver vs a glock? no contest IMO
     
  6. mesinge2

    mesinge2 Member

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    The old Smiths are better than the new ones, and a victory model!

    I do the swap, as a matter of fact I did.

    I traded a Glock 17L for a pristine 19-4.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2010
  7. MIL-DOT

    MIL-DOT member

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    Thanks for the advice, guys ! How would I tell if it's likely a fake ? I'm pretty good freinds with the guy that has it, he's always been a straight shooter,and he swears he got it from an old family friend he's known his whole life, and I tend to believe that much of it.
    I haven't actually seen the pistol yet, and I've been scouring the internet for additional info.
     
  8. Maj Dad

    Maj Dad Member

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    Make sure it's a 38 spl & not a Brit 38 S&W. Almost certainly not being Navy marked, but double check, then get a speeding ticket making the trade! Don't let the Glock door hit you in the butt, and I have Glocks - the Victory Model is by far the more desirable of the two, Navy proofs even more so, and like several mentioned, Glocks are readily available. If you don't decide to do it, tell your buddy I'm willing to deal... ;)
     
  9. MIgunguy

    MIgunguy Member

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    I'd like a first generation G17, but even I would trade one for that S&W.
     
  10. defjon

    defjon Member

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    Eghad man, why are you wasting your time on here! Do it! Do it now! ;)
     
  11. hogshead

    hogshead Member

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    Saw 1 going for $850. Did it go?
     
  12. oneounceload

    oneounceload member

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  13. Nick5182

    Nick5182 Member

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    Like you said, if the glock isn't seeing much range time anyway, go for it.
     
  14. Oro

    Oro Member

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    They were used by base guards, MPs, armories on surface ships and subs, etc. Many Marine and Navy pilots did carry them, and many of them also carried 1911s and 1911a1s.

    If a regular contract gun, it will have "U.S.Navy" no spaces on the left side of the top strap as pictured below. Some were side-plate stamped and that's a different story. If it is an original finish, it will NOT be green Parkerized like most military guns. It will be a blue-black phosphate finish called "Black Magic" by S&W. The trigger and hammer should be vibrant case hardened, not blue or Parkerized. Check the barrel, grips, cylinder, bottom of grip frame, and also under the ejector star for the s/n to all match. If it's a 5" gun, or the barrel is marked ".38 S&W" and not ".38 S&W Special," then ignore it.

    Bottom line: even if the gun is re-finished, as long as the barrel/frame/cylinder match, I would do the trade.

    Here's what the original finish and top-strap stamps look like:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is what an arsenal re-done one with typical military Parkerizing looks like:
    [​IMG]
     
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