Need to resize new brass?

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Resize. It has nothing to do with the size of the brass for me though. Only new brass I've bought was lapua. Its about making sure each and every single piece of brass is absolutely identical. The only way I can do that is to do it myself. Reloading, for me, is about consistency. If I dont start with consistently sized brass, then how can I possibly expect consistent chamber pressures and velocities?
 
I resize everything before loading. On bottleneck cases the sizing did probably does not touch the shoulder but it uniforms the case mouth and irons out any dents.
 
Offfhand said:
I've seen many thousands of rounds loaded at Federal, Remington and Winchester, plus some European firms, and the cases are loaded as they come from the shops where the brass cases are drawn and formed.
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Then you weren't looking closely enough. You may have seen the brass being fed into the machines, but if you didn't know what to look for you failed to notice that the cases were being sized at one of the first two stages of the machines. As an example:

http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/01/idaho-company-produces-advanced-ammo-loading-machines/
 
Reloading is a lot of work. So, if I'm going to load it, I'm going to start at the first step. I'd hate to have a batch of 200 rounds ( or even 20 ) only to find they are not up to my expectations! No fun to get to the range and then find your ammo doesn't work!
 
I have done it both ways but not after this last episode. I bought new 300 Black Out Brass. I made a dummy load for setting my seating die without running the case into the sizing die. I could see a bulge where the base of the bullet was in the neck of the case. When I resized a case and seated a bullet there was no bulge in the neck. The case mouth in the new brass had to be several thousands too small.
 
I size, trim, chamfer, & debur my new star line .44mag cases. Case length varied quite a bit.
 
RussellC said:
I always resize. I havent tumbled, and since I wet tumble with pins I dont know if it would help, but those new Starline cases are sticky in the die!

Russellc
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Yes, they are. I just loaded over 150 rounds of .45 Colt, and I wound up using some Imperial Sizing wax to ease the job on the Starline brass. About 40 of the rounds were Starline, the others were R-P and CBC once fired.
 
tcoz said:
I find all new cases a little more difficult to resize so I dry tumble pistol cases for an hour then lightly lube them with Imperial.
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When I lube, it is with Imperial! A little dab will do you! I bought two small tins when I started, both still going strong.

Russellc
 
brewer12345 said:
This may be a dumb question, but if I buy factory new brass, say Starline 44 mag, do I need to resize it?
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Yes, I always resize new brass.
Some is dented just a bit from shipping, or whatever.


By the way, the only "dumb" questions are the ones not asked.
They get people hurt, "or worse - killed!"

Please continue to ask.
If someone gives you a hard time for asking, well, I guess that reflects their intelligence.
There's a reason this forum is called "The High Road"

Ask on, my brothers & sisters! :)
 
While on the subject of new Starline, from there FAQ
Why is it very hard to get expander and powder funnel back out of case?
There are two situations that create this problem. The first is one we have just recently identified. It seems to be associated with the dillon powder funnel and only a couple of calibers (45 Auto and 40 S&W). The land for expanding case mouth is too long and when you begin to bell mouth the bottom of expander gets into the thicker taper of case and wedges causing it to be very hard to get back out. We have modified several by increasing radius on end and slightly shortening expanding land and this eliminated the problem completely. Call Starline and we will take care of it if you wish. One other cause can be a burr at case mouth created by the final trim operation, which grabs onto expander as it comes back up. This situation does not often appear and can be fixed by deburring case mouth or inside lubing cases.
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Yes I resize all new brass also measure,trim to length ,deburr and give the primer pocket a quick look.
 
Hondo 60 said:
By the way, the only "dumb" questions are the ones not asked.
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Oh, although it is decidedly not PC to say this, in my experience there are a LOT of dumb questions posed. Most seem to me to be due to the person not taking the time to even briefly engaging their brain. Be honest, folks, you have all seen them.

I think that this whole "no dumb questions" kneejerk thing of the last couple of decades is related to things like "no one is responsible for anything/not anyone's fault", let's not keep score at the kids' ballgame so nobody feels bad, everyone who plays wins a trophy, etc.


WHEW! Sorry, Hondo 60 ... I really dislike the "no dumb questions" comments ... is it very obvious? :)
 
GBExpat said:
Oh, although it is decidedly not PC to say this, in my experience there are a LOT of dumb questions posed. Most seem to me to be due to the person not taking the time to even briefly engaging their brain. Be honest, folks, you have all seen them.

I think that this whole "no dumb questions" kneejerk thing of the last couple of decades is related to things like "no one is responsible for anything/not anyone's fault", let's not keep score at the kids' ballgame so nobody feels bad, everyone who plays wins a trophy, etc.


WHEW! Sorry, Hondo 60 ... I really dislike the "no dumb questions" comments ... is it very obvious? :)
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Well, I am old enough to never have received a participation trophy, so perhaps my occasional dumb question will be ok. ;)
 
brewer12345 said:
Well, I am old enough to never have received a participation trophy, so perhaps my occasional dumb question will be ok. ;)
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Ab-so-lute-ly! Almost everyone periodically poses a not-very-well-thought-thru question ... the result being that it comes down on the "dumb" side of the ledger. The good news is that most of us (I sure hope) realize that there is nothing wrong with periodically asking a "dumb" question.

On (too many) more than one occasion I have found myself thinking "DUH! I knew that ... why didn't I connect those dots prior to posting that question?" These days I can often assign blame for such lapses to O.L.D. :)
 
When this question comes up (often) if someone says NO you don't need to then there are replies that say yes you should.

When someone says YES you should, then the replies come that say, no you don't have to.

Can you get by that first time and not resize? Sure, probably, so what?

My question always is, what do you do all the time after you load and shoot your ammo?. You generally always resize it. So why with new brass does someone not want to?? Is it that much of a "time saver" to skip a step?? Is it that much of a hardship to size brass when the press is already set up to do so?

Just don't get it at all??? (and no offense meant to anyone who asked)

So the answer is yes, sometimes, almost always, no you don't except when.........:)
 
I see people ask "dumb questions" and I'm glad because I've had the same "dumb question" on my mind as well. I'm grateful for the wisdom and patience of the experienced members here on THR taking the time to help
 
GBExpat said:
Oh, although it is decidedly not PC to say this, in my experience there are a LOT of dumb questions posed.
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Sorry, but I whole-heartedly disagree with your post.
Would you rather embarrass posters or have them post so no one gets hurt?
Just because 1 person (or many people) think the answer is obvious, the poster may not have YOUR experience.
Or they may just be having a brain fart,or etc, etc.

This forum is called "The High Road" for a reason.
Posts & Posters should be made to feel welcome, no matter their experience.

This line has devolved into something that's not related to the question, and not IMHO "high road".
Maybe the original poster or a mod may consider closing it.
 
<chuckle> Wow! You really ran that out into Left Field. :)

-------

As I recall, the first time that I had to deal with the OP's question was back in the '70s with some new .38 or .357 cases.

After close inspection of the case mouths I realized that they would need, at a minimum, some chamfer/deburr-action ... and decided that the the best way to handle new brass in future would probably be to process it like I did the old.

O'course, it was pristine so I didn't have to clean it. ;)
 
Guys, in my humble opinion:) I know I have asked questions when I first started that I would consider "not worthy of today" (PC for not thought out.;))

I think the big issue these days is a some folks (this is general not aimed at the op) do little to no research before hand. Heck, I know of members on another forum that flat out stated, they are no going to buy any manuals, they feel they can just post on forums!

Anyway, there is not a whole lot of really "new" stuff that has not been asked and answered before, There is information overload out there on the net.

But then there are the replies like "Google is your friend" Well if that is the reply for all things, then there is no longer a need for any more forums or questions!!

If you feel the question is not worth answering then ignore. If a simple reply helps someone then it's good.

Of the few pieces of NEW brass I have purchased, I did resize them! Now we can move on to do we trim handgun brass!!:eek::eek::eek:

So ask away, use what you can and disregard the rest!
 
I tried not sizing new .223 rifle brass and the necks were to tight shaving some of the copper jacket of the bullet. Now I resize all brass new or old.
 
It used to be conventional wisdom to size new brass. Most experts today say it isn't necessary. I stopped doing so years ago.
 
neck sizing new rifle brass will give you an excuse to use that seldom used die. since most pistol dies are carbide, you can also "neck size" using that die (run the case up into the die just enough to size where the bullet will seat). a lot of new cases will have oval mouths with burrs and sharp edges. neck sizing and a quick swipe with the deburring tool will clean up those new cases, imo.

murf
 
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