Discussion in 'Handguns: Autoloaders' started by Great Scot, Sep 30, 2022.
PRD1 - mhb - MIke
Oh.. dont overtighten the grip screw as you will crack the grips pretty easily.
I never had slide bite, but a couple friends did and I guess I felt sorry enough for them that I installed a common Hogue small pistol rubber overgrip that has a beavertail. Stops that problem as well as making the little bugger slightly less 'snappy' to shoot. Not that it's hard to handle, but...
Also sourced a magazine extension piece of plastic that allowed the use of a PPKS magazine for one extra round.
I'm guessing you'll enjoy it, kinda heavy for pocket carry, but with a decent holster a decent choice for a carry piece. Has more safety features than your Glock type and it has some history of excellence. Would you argue with James Bond?
Interarms guns were known for having tight tolerances to the point where it was sometimes difficult to remove the slide. I could only get mine apart after a night in the freezer......
I will say it was a beautifully machined and finished gun- but I never trusted it enough for SD duty, so it had to go down the road.
Best of luck with yours!
I bought her used so it may have been broken in as to the slide and such
What you fell as recoil is actually the blowback slide coming to an abrupt stop at the end of its travel. Wearing a bike glove for range duty is a help.
The older versions, including the American, Interarms (made by Ranger in Alabama), were never really designed for hollow points. So hollowpoints are a maybe kind of thing, and I'd surely stay away from any non-standard ammo.
Yes, they can shoot really straight.
Nice catch; interesting gun.
The folks at Walther forums advise against use of the decocker if possible as broken hammers and safeties are a thing. If you must use it, its best to lower the hammer slowly with the other hand. Same thing goes for the P38/P1 pistols.
I may get another one eventually but it will most likely be a PPks because the grip cracking ticked me off and I was very careful not to overtighten. Would be neat to set one up with fully adjustable sights because they are basically mini target pistols in defensive calibers.
reliability wise I never had a jam or parts breakage but I wasnt testing every single jhp back then. I kept it loaded with silvertips because they were kind of the go to for 380acp HP back then unless you ran magsafe or glasers which also functioned fine in my ppk. the 32s feel like you are shooting a pocket pistol in 25acp but they are not nearly as common. Honestly the snap isnt really that bad. I never had any pain from shooting it.
Mecgar sells the fingerest kits on their home page and those give you a full grip. Its a shame Hogue or Pachmayr never made grips for the PPK. Wolff also sells spring kits for them if you want to tune the pistol to your liking. the most gentle 380acp I know of is 90grain FMJ PMC bronze so that may be a good place to start. Its a soft shooting load.
The rather harsh snap is because its a straight blowback. While that is somewhat shunned now it deffinitly has its advantages over a delayed tilting barrel system.
- Use snap-caps - don't dry-fire
- JHPs with a wider ogive may not feed well (the old green-box Remingtons with similar nose profile to FMJs have always worked well for me)
- concur with @NIGHTLORD40K above about minimizing use of the decocker
- you may discover this is the only pistol you've ever fired that actually does create the mythical "slide bite"
- you probably will crack the grip panels at some point
Finally, good that you got an Interarms model. The S&W models plain stink. It's still a pistol with some cachet. (in English, cool factor)
PPK going to spoil you though. All these modern plastic 380s are going to feel like junky innacurate toys once you put some time on a PPK. Might as well start keeping an eye out for a deal on a Makarov PM if you dont have one yet.
If a .32 barrel could be sourced, I saved instructions for modification of a .380 to .32...but I never found a barrel at a price I was willing to pay.
In any case, Walther is making the PPKS again, but I've not heard much about it, other than it's pricey. The Smith version was, let's say, problematic...and IMO, besmirched a fine legacy design.
Every new pistol I get will be fed a variety of ammo to determine this. If I find that it has less and dislikes, I'll move forward with what it likes.
Trying to feed a gun ammo it doesn't like is a recipe for extreme frustration... and needless frustration at that.
So shoot a variety and see what happens. Since shooting is fun, it's not as if you lose anything doing it!
I don't find the recoil objectional at all, but it is a PPK/S so it's got a bit more grip to hold onto. The flush fit magazine I consider to be basically useless. I gotta have the ones with the mag extension (spare mags are not cheap either). No slide/hammer bite, but the current production ones have the extended beavertail from the Smith and Wesson days, a really nice addition I'm sure. My 22 PPK/S's have never given me any slide bite either though.
The other common complaint I hear is the DA trigger. In my experience that's true, at least with the 22 PPK/S I have, however, the 380 I've got has a really NICE D/A trigger. I mean it feels better to me than any J-frame type revolver I've ever owned, and still retains the great S/A pull most Walthers seem to have.
I'm no great shot, but this was the result of my first time out. Seven yards I think. Ammo was FMJ, I forget what brand...probably Blazer, or Remington UMC. I was just shooting and reloading, and most of them seemed to be hitting about where I expected them too. A little low at first, but I adjusted POA and things looked up after that. First shot each magazine was fired D/A.
I thought I'd carry it a lot, but since then I picked up a Tisas Fatih 13, copy of the Beretta 84BB, that holds almost double the rounds, so the Walther is more of a range toy than anything else now. I did get a nice Bianchi 100 IWB holster for it though. You never know.
There was an interarms 380 at my LGS a few weeks ago. I was sorely tempted, but I've got this one, the Tisas, and a Beretta 84F, so I think I'm good for 380's, Now if it had been a 32...it would have been different. I've come to really like these little guns.
My only beef with the design involves how the edges of the grip were rather sharp and not too comfy for my mitts when it recoiled.
Good luck, as a Bond nut i I love the looks and panache, but the design just doesn’t love me .
Snappy recoil and two red lines on the web of my hand got tiring. Also never got used to the change in trigger position after the first round was fired and it went from DA to SA. Always felt like the trigger wasn't resetting, something I didn't need to think about under stress.
The key to these is to run them a while and tolerate the miscues and then polish the wear areas. Mine is slick as glass now and cycles perfectly every time. That being said it is my opinion that I should not have to give custom shop treatment to a firearm to get it to run reliably. It should come that way from the factory. I bought this last one for a song because the guy did not know how to make them run right and was tired of messing with it. I tried to explain the process to him, but he was done with it. So, I bought it.
I shot anything I wanted through it. The accuracy is superb no matter what you shoot.
The PP series has many manifestations, made in Germany, France, the US (Interarms/Ranger made in Alabama, S&Walther in Houlton, Maine, and the current guns from Umarex/Ft. Smith) In this last guise, the slides are German, the remainder being made, and assembled, here.
Later Smith production, and the current guns, have a good rep for running on hollowpoints. Part of the challenge is slide velocity; as a pure blowback, the empty has to be ejected, and the cartridge stack lifted, in a hellfire hurry. The gun was designed as a .32, in which caliber it is pleasant to shoot. Stretching it to .380 makes the window of reliability somewhat smaller.
For those challenged to field strip, a couple things help. Put a quarter under the trigger guard boss, rather than trying to hold it. Make sure the recoil spring is installed with the tight end around the barrel. And yeah, that spring gets stacked up tight, so some guns are stinkers to take down.
Umarex/Walther will honor warranty work on any Walther, providing the parts are available. Numrich/Earls Repair can help with older guns.
It has always been a snappy gun but, since I broke the factory grips and replaced them with Hogues the snappiness is not so bad.
Beware of the "railroad tracks" on the web of your hand obtained by holding a very high grip.
My gun is VERY accurate even to extended range (for a pocket pistol).
The Walther only needs a gentle touch to the wheel with the direction of the motion being along the wheels parallel to the edges, if you have a ten or twenty power loupe with you you can run the edge very lightly along the rails bottom corners, then hold it up and look through the loupe, then gray wheel again etc.
The back edge of the slide can be radiused very lightly by the same method, but again, make sure the direction is along the direction of the edge and you won't be able to detect that it's been smoothed out unless you know where to look, or maybe not even if you do know, if it's done right. This is the very rear edge where the slides sloped butt end meets the slides bottom rails. so both rails can be radiused so that they are visible without ruining the lines appearance, about a .015" radius. They come with a slight radius there but but still look great with about twice as much radius, That's done with a rolling motion starting with the bottoms of the rails up, and rolling the end your holding down so you pull away just as the rear slanted surface is about to touch.
The theme is many light passes with inspections between them rather than any heavy pressure at any time. The sharp edges should still appear sharp, but a very tiny almost invisible radius will be along those formerly sharp edges. I did mine right after the first range visit when I got my two red bite lines on my shooting hand and never regretted taking the bite out of it.
I should make a video of it because it's very easy to overdo the gray wheels action.
Hahaha... yeah, I had one in the 70s with a trigger-action of like quality ... followed by a PP, same-same. ... and I still have the stainless PPK (ayup, more crappy DA trigger-action) that I bought in the late 80s.
I simply trained myself to, when necessary, cock the hammer as the Walther was clearing the Roy Baker pancake. My reasoning? If I am drawing my Walther "out in the world", I am very possibly about to have to shoot someone a lot ... followed by having to sit down before my knees go wonky as the adrenaline dump quickly wears off.
Oh yes, a too-high/tight grip and/or puffy hands can result in some messy slide slicing.
I have never encountered any issues with any flavor of ball ammo in my NIB 1989 PPK and, unfortunately, it has been decades since I conceal carried my PPK so I cannot remark on what current commercial loadings are reliable in the piece. Sorry.
An all-steel small 9x17 handgun can seem pretty heavy in these days of polymer-framed handguns but ~60 years ago it was just dandy. By the time I got to my car (BRG MGB ) on the way to work, I could not even feel it in that leather pancake holster riding tight-in at ~4 o'clock.
Congrats on your Classic handgun acquisition! Enjoy!
I got a MGB-GT BRG when I got back from overseas in 1970. Loved the wire wheels. Women loved that car!
It was the perfect compliment to my PPK!
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