Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by JCooperfan1911, Oct 25, 2021.
It was no Colt. Trigger guard all wrong, barrel just looked wrong, and the grip was no Colt.
The BFRs are nice – I have one in .44 MAG; about $1050.00 including tax, transfer fee, and shipping.
It’s a single action revolver, but not an SAA replica – no clicks, the cylinder spins free in both directions when loading/unloading, etc.
My SAA replica is a Cimarron/Pietta in .45 Colt.
To me, that a revolver might be single action and have the appearance of an SAA doesn’t make it a replacement for a Colt.
very true, Does anybody else think the sights on a FA is kindda funky??? front reminds me of a Ruger Mark 2 sights and rear looks like a rifle scope mount
I like the style and classic like of classic cowboy guns
[QUOTE="I want a real Colt too. But at 2500-3500 I am gonna pass. Uberti isn't the answer for me as I had two brand new El patron .357 revolvers fail miserably in the past year.
The new spaghetti westerns are great looking paper weights. Just don't try to shoot them.
Funny you say that. I know folks that shoot 20,000 psi range loads out of theirs and they love um!! Like I posted above, the "spaghetti westerns" can be made to run as long or longer than a Ruger, you can treat um like a fool and you can't necessarily do that with a $2500 + Colt out of the box! On top of that you'd still have less than $1000 in the Uberti or Pietta!
I know everyone wants a $500.00 gun to run like a $2000.00 + gun . . . and if it won't , it's just trash . . . Folks win state championships with these guns but then they don't mind adding a buck or two to make that happen. For me, I've spent a lot of time figuring out how to make that happen with these S.A.s and it's rather satisfying when it happens.
Another data point to enhance your incredible expertise:
Gues I should have sent it to you instead of back to Uberti/Stoeger/Benelli, you could have properly heat treated the frame after you un-stretched it.
After looking at your original post that you provided a link for (thanks), the comment from Stoger mentioned "scratches on the cylinder" which indicates probable lockup problems. Add to that the fired cases you posted pics of with off center firing pin strikes indicate out of battery firing!!
The frame was "most likely" damaged with repeated out of battery firings. You also state this was a new revolver (2020/2021?) so with work stoppages in Italy, I would definitely do a thorough check with any revolver made in these years. If a revolver EVER has throw-by problems, stop shooting it until it has been addressed. Shooting top strap revolvers out of battery is how they become "open tops"!!
So who's fault? Probably shared. Production guns are just that " production "! Doesn't mean one (or 2) can't slip through insp. , especially during times with on again/off again production . . . so to your point - buyer be ware! But, the end user has the responsibility of making sure it IS in a safe condition! Glad you or others weren't hurt!!
So you are a revolver expert but you have no idea what end shake is or why it would happen??? The frame stretched due to improper heat treat. It stretched by over 1/4" after 300 rounds. How does a revolver fire "out of battery" if the cylinder was not lined up the firing pin cannot strike the primer. There was no evidence that a bullet struck the forcing cone at all.
You're right sir. I shouldn't have offered any explanations or possibilities. My mistake. Still glad you or anyone near you were not hurt.
100% my 2020 Italian job was broken. But, it gave me an opportunity to take it apart!
Thanks DJ ! You are correct about the coils for the trigger and bolt. The old combo spring is indeed used as the keeper and that is a bolt block taking up all the " leftover " space in the frame! Lol
The extra holes you see in the side of the frame are for pins that rest on flats ground on the trig/bolt screws to keep them locked in place as long as the T.G. and B.S. are in place. As for the left arm being longer I'll post a few pics to show how that happens.
The bolt on the left is brand new the right one has been massaged a little. The left arm (to your right) of the bolt is some thinner that the new one. I should point out that even the new bolt has a thin left arm but they haven't always been that way. All of the reproduction parts had thick arms on both sides until maybe 10 yes ago when Uberti started making them just like the originals- thin on the working side.
In this image you can see the left arm has been cut /clearanced to give it more length (where it meets the body of the bolt). It has also been clearanced for the working arm of the spring to lay "within" the bolt.
Here the bolt head has been clearanced at the body junction and it gets back to full width right at the top (shiny area). This protects the edge of the notch since the "fitted " section of the bolt head is in the bottom of the notch . . . no contact of the edge with the bolt head.
There is also clearancing under the bolt arms for the trigger spring located on the trigger screwpin.
The extra length and thinness of the arm allows much more flexibility which translates to lifetimes of service. The necessary strength (in the vertical) remains basically unchanged.
Hope this helps some.
Wow. Thanks for the reply and the very clear photos.
So you don't actually 'lengthen' anything, you cut back in various places to make the working portion longer. Thanks very much for the photos and the explanation.
This is inspiring me to break out the Flitz and Dremel. I polished the bolt after I filed it and tighten the spring screw and my lock up is tight!
I feel like polishing everything in that gun now!
why did you cut a slit in that bolt?
you got a solution for end play? I seen were they make shims. I orders some feeler gauge to check my end play, I should know numbers soon.
Ixnay on the Dremel Tool. More guns have probably been ruined with a Dremel tool than anything else. It will remove too much metal way too fast. Files and stones are the way to go.
thanks bud! been years since I filed metal by hand but I still can, not scared! Tell you what, These replicas are very nice! Metal on Metal
In my experience, Dremels are destructive with any kind of stone on them
For internal parts - I use a small black Arkansas stone,
0000 grit emery paper. Drexel only comes into use with a felt polishing
Pad and some polishing rouge or 600 grit silica.
Of course a Ruger S.A. is safe with six and is half the price, has coil springs, and will shoot heavy loads as well! It'll never have the "feel" the Colt has but then it's not supposed to. But , done right, you can take the best of both and have a heavy shooter with an almost indestructible action (with Colt geometry!) a true "Beauty and the Beast" all rolled up in one package!!
I will agree though the original "Beauty and the Beast" was the Colt S.A.A.!!
how you like that Colt!?!?!
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