New Glock slide starting to rust...

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Hey guys, just got back from the range and broke in my new Glock 17. When I got home, I just quickly glanced at the slide and saw little specs of rust. at first I didn't know if I was seeing things because I was under the impression that 2 weeks or less of handling wouldn't bring the rust out through the tennifer finish.

Here's the thing though, one reason I hate constantly handling firearms is that the oils in my hand must be extra corrosive. I can just grab the bolt handle of any of my rifles and come back the next day and it's infested with rust. I don;t live in a very damp climate either. The specs of rust are only in the areas that I grab to rack the slide, esp. the serrations. So here's my question: Is it just rusting because of the oils on my hand, is it normal, or should I contact Glock?

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Much appreciated,
Brendan
 
I've seen your kind before. Had a friend whose sweat was so corrosive that he could etch pits into stainless guns in an afternoon of shooting. You're going to have to keep that slide coated with some kind of rust preventative and periodically take an M 16 brush and scrub out those serrations. CLP, Eezox, and sheath are all good rust preventers. Keep it oily brother. Maybe eat more garlic.
 
Wait, I thought Tennefir was impervious to everything, including nuclear annihilation? :) An ex boss was like that, such corrosive sweat that he destroyed the Wonder Finish on a Witness in a day. Good luck, and keep it clean and oiled.
 
I have the same problem you have so for 50+ years the last thing that touches any gun of mine is a cloth with a slight dusting of WD-40 or some such rust preventive. Just never spray WD-40 directly into the action.

Stainless steel and Tenifer are corrosion resistant; not corrosion proof. Glock Talk has many threads on the topic of Glocks rusting.
 
Genuine Tenifer metal treatment is 99.9% saltwater corrosion resistant.

I don't know what's going on with newer Glock's, but there have been a few cases of rust posted lately.
 
Good thing I buy used!

I have never seen Glock rust. Living in humid and salt-aired places. I have seen after-market sights on my Glock rust, but not the pistol itself.

Thanks for the education.
 
Here's what I'do do:

Step 1. Scrub the serrations with "CLP" and a bronze bristled "tooth" brush. Use plenty of cleaner/lubricant/preservative on the gun and brush. (Any type of CLP will work, I use Ed's Red.)

Step 2. Degrease. (Gun Scrubber, etc. I use brake cleaner.)

Step 3. Apply rust-preventative of choice. (CLP, etc. I use Ed's Red.)

I would be very surprised if it ever came back. Sometimes guns from the factory weren't completely "neutralized" from their chemicals. Your situation is not unique. :)
 
Hey guys, just got back from the range and broke in my new Glock 17. When I got home, I just quickly glanced at the slide and saw little specs of rust. at first I didn't know if I was seeing things because I was under the impression that 2 weeks or less of handling wouldn't bring the rust out through the tennifer finish.

That looks like rust, alright :(--salt and/or acid will cause rust over time, even just a fortnight.

Is it just rusting because of the oils on my hand, is it normal, or should I contact Glock?

This is not a comforting answer, but it may or may not be normal. In your case it may well be normal because contrary to popular belief, Glocks are not absolutely impervious to rust--they're just very resistant. :eek: Typically it's such a minor issue that people don't even have to think about it at all, but your case is not typical.

Human skin is normally slightly acidic, but some folks have extra-acidic skin oil and/or extra salty sweat, and therefore need to clean these off their weapons frequently, as well as apply a corrosion inhibitor. The latter should theoretically be mandatory for all firearms, although most people can get away with neglecting certain guns, such as Glocks--looks like you can't, though.

As for the corrosion inhibitor, generally a vanishingly-thin layer of neutral oil should suffice, although something stronger might be warranted in your case. Eezox is a popular option around here and it works extremely well, but some people find it noxious. If you have a particular dislike for strong chemical odors (you wouldn't be alone), then CorrosionX is a good alternative.

On the other hand, I've seen abnormal cases of rust on Glocks, which were probably caused by defects in the Tenifer treatment. Based on my own experience with firearms (I do not have particularly acidic skin), if I saw rust forming like that on a Glock, then I would definitely contact the manufacturer because it would almost certainly be a defect. In your case, I can't be sure, although I'm suspicious about the fact that the slide lock lever isn't rusty, as the Tenifer-treated slide should be the more rust-resistant of the two. :scrutiny: Did you ever use the slide lock lever?
 
Sure it isn't that copper stuff Glock ships their pistols with?

I'd recommend that the OP double-check to make sure, but in the photos it sure looks like rust to me. If it wasn't there to begin with (messy handling at the factory?), then it's rust.

Take a nylon brush and some RemOil and see if it doesn't come off.

This could take rust off, too, so it wouldn't prove that the orangy stuff is copper-based (anti-seize) grease. The question is whether the OP's Glock is defective, so obviously we need to know for sure whether it is, in fact, rusting (just one piece of evidence).

as disgusting as it sounds, that's not rust, it's skin flakes.

It's bad enough that the OP's skin causes rust, but it's orange-colored, too? ;)

Genuine Tenifer metal treatment is 99.9% saltwater corrosion resistant.

What about acid?

I don't know what's going on with newer Glock's, but there have been a few cases of rust posted lately.

The reports appear to be more frequent lately, but this has happened with older Glocks as well. Sometimes the Tenifer treatment goes wrong--it's pretty rare but it does happen, which is why I haven't yet dismissed the possibility of a defective pistol, even with the issue of acidic skin oil.

Obviously it would be nice to have some input from others who have personal experience with acidic skin oil and Glocks. I've read about other such cases in the past, and sometimes they did manage to cause the Tenifer-treated steel to rust, but I'm pretty sure that other parts that come into contact, such as slide lock levers, also rusted, which does not appear to be the case here (maybe it just doesn't show up in the photos or the OP doesn't use that part), so I'm still wondering.
 
"Here's the thing though, one reason I hate constantly handling firearms is that the oils in my hand must be extra corrosive. I can just grab the bolt handle of any of my rifles and come back the next day and it's infested with rust."

I think you pretty much summed it up right there. Just be careful with it, remembering to always wipe it down well after use. Should be good to go.
 
It's bad enough that the OP's skin causes rust, but it's orange-colored, too?
Been eating any Cheese Curls lately?

Reminds me of the old joke about the guy that went to the Doctor because he had an orange ring around his - -- uhhh - - never mind.

rc
 
OP
Hey guys, just got back from the range and broke in my new Glock 17

I can't beleive this is rust. The gun is brand new. We all know that Glock puts one heckuva finish on the slides. It looks like the copper lube that Glock uses. How about some better pics (if you haven't cleaned it yet) of the poly body by the slide?
 
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Thanks for all of the great responses guys,

Thought I'd post some more pictures I just took today. I have't cleaned it yet, and I'm just gonna wait and see if it is just me or a finishing problem before I do anything with it. But just as some of you noticed, the slide stop does not appear to be rusted and I use that a fair amount. It actually seems like there are a few more specks of rust from when I checked it out yesterday. Should I put a drop of salt water somewhere on the slide to see how fast/if it rusts?

EDIT: There's also no way that that is anti-seize grease.

Sorry if the pictures aren't very good quality, I'm stuck with my blackberry camera.

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Thanks again,
Brendan
 
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I looked at your picture and it does indeed look like rust. Without having it close up, I'll just take your word for it and the following assumes such, in and around my own experiences with Glock. I'm also assuming you have tried (though you haven't) a toothbrush on this and it didn't come off.

Now...

I know what is going on with new Glocks. They are taking designs from R&D, walking down the hall right past the testing facility, which is probably locked and covered in cobwebs by now, and on to the manufacturing floor, where they input the data into the CNC mills and lathes, and what pops out winds up at your local dealer.

I have five Glocks, and I don't plan on getting another. Keep this in mind before deeming me a Glock basher, and that my wife and I still carry our older ones. This 4th gen stuff is just too experimental for me though. Waaaay too many problems, to include my own problems with their ambi mag release. Wouldn't work out of the box! In fact, had they tested it, they would have figured it out. Mine went back to Glock before ever making it to the range.

That said, it wouldn't surprise me one bit if you got a slide that wasn't treated. Or if the quit treating them and just didn't pass on the info. Nothing would surprise me at this point.

The tenifer treatment is illegal in the US and most of the rest of the world. Very nasty stuff. But it lends a quality to the metal that is simply awesome.

They don't rust, and although I haven't tried it, I'd bet trying to cut one with a file would be difficult at best until, and if, you got throught the treated surface. It isn't thick, but it is 70 (something hardness scale) and supposedly as hard as a file. The tenifer isn't something you can actually see, really. It just makes the metal look kind of like a dull gray, a different dull gray than the white metal though. To the untrained eye, it looks untreated. The black stuff you see is now a paint, kind of shiny, but the old ones had the tenifer treated surface turned flat black, kind of like parkerizing (I don't pretend to be a metal expert, I am only parroting what I have heard and read).

So in theory, the metal shouldn't rust. I've never seen one rust, and I have abused them and even used and carried one in the rain often, for the better part of a year. And neglected to clean it well too. Grime does indeed collect where you are showing rust, but never seen rust.

Of the six (I thought it was five, but I forgot one) that I have, one is from the mid 80's, one of the original Glocks. This is the one I carried in the rain. Many rounds, rebuilds, and years later, it still works likes a champ and my wife carries it daily. No rust, and it hasn't really had the best care. I bought it used specifically as a beater. No oil, lack of care, broken parts, etc., I couldn't kill it, so I rebuilt it one last time and gave it to my wife. This one has lots of worn places and no problems.

I'd call Glock, a couple of times in case you get more than one story, and get to the bottom of it. In my experience, they shouldn't do this. The Glock even holds up well against salt water. That is why I kind of think you got one that missed getting treated maybe? Without the tenifer, that paint or blackening won't do much in the way of rust prevention. Maybe the paint will, but I suppose it could be compromised easier.
 
Give it a good wipe down with oil, wipe it as dry as possible, then shine a cool white LED light on it. That shade of light is great for spotting rust. I've had Glocks rust in the slide internals, I now keep a coat of oil on every metal surface including the slide internals and I just detail strip clean the slide each time I shoot it to avoid problems.

Glock's new finish is no where near as resistant to corrosion as their old finish, and quite honestly I don't think they're using Tenifer case hardening anymore, it looks like Melonite. People will say the two are the same thing but they're not, Tenifer is much better and easier to do correctly.
 
Definitely a manufacturing defect. There's no reason to accept that from a Glock, especially a new Glock.

I have seen a few of these new rusty Glocks on the forums. Look at how the rust accumulates in the corners of the serrations as if the sprayer at the factory was running out of liquid or didn't swipe the gun enough times to fully coat the slide from all angles.

Dont fix it or try to remove the rust - leave it as is and take it back to the place you bought it from ASAP so they can see the rust. If they won't replace it, contact Glock. I wouldn't accept this kind of product. In fact contact Glock ASAP. That rust is going to get worse, its a new gun, imagine what it'll look like in a year or two. Maybe they'll ship you a new slide if everything else on the gun looks ok...
 
I can't beleive this is rust. The gun is brand new. We all know that Glock puts one heckuva finish on the slides.

That's like saying the Titanic can't sink, and look at what happened. :uhoh: Glocks are made of steel, and steel can and will rust. In this case, considering all of the evidence we have so far, it appears that the Tenifer treatment on this particular Glock's slide is defective because it should normally resist corrosion better than the slide stop, which does not have the same treatment yet remains rust-free in the OP's case (acidic/salty skin notwithstanding). Obviously something is wrong--that happens, too, despite Glock's well-deserved reputation for quality and consistency. It's still a mass-produced product that for cost reasons is subjected to very limited testing at the factory--in all such cases it is up to the consumer to find the defects and report them to the manufacturer in order to get them fixed.

It looks like the copper lube that Glock uses. How about some better pics (if you haven't cleaned it yet) of the poly body by the slide?

Copper lube that forms orange specks on the outside of the slide? :scrutiny:

just as some of you noticed, the slide stop does not appear to be rusted and I use that a fair amount.

In that case, my working assumption is that whatever won't rust the slide stop shouldn't rust the Tenifer-treated slide first. If that is true, then the pistol is defective--not great news, but it's a good thing to know.

It actually seems like there are a few more specks of rust from when I checked it out yesterday. Should I put a drop of salt water somewhere on the slide to see how fast/if it rusts?

First, contact Glock customer service with the evidence presented in this thread to see what they think.
 
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That copper anti sieze is nasty messy and can stick. I have also noticed very fine copperish stains in some Glocks. Mine has a little on top of the slide.

If you have rust. Then you must have steel showing through. If you have steel showing through. Then you must have some grey tennifer showing through somewhere. I don't see gray tennifer, scratches, or nicks in the black and gray finish.

I'm not convinced it's rust. Unless Glock forgot to tennifer it and we're just looking at a thin black coating?
 
That said, it wouldn't surprise me one bit if you got a slide that wasn't treated. Or if the quit treating them and just didn't pass on the info. Nothing would surprise me at this point.

While Glock has, at a number of different points in the past, quietly made changes to the design (with the occasional disastrous result from inadequate or nonexistent testing :rolleyes:, as you described), I still think that deliberately skipping the Tenifer treatment would be far too major of a change to be made in secret. Maybe I'm wrong in this regard and will be proven so in the near future, but for now it's easier to believe that a few guns are going to be defective.

The tenifer treatment is illegal in the US and most of the rest of the world. Very nasty stuff. But it lends a quality to the metal that is simply awesome.

"Tenifer" is merely one of several trade names for ferritic nitrocarburizing. There are a number of different but related processes that could all interchangeably be called "Tenifer" or "Melonite" for example. Read about it here at the source:

http://www.durferrit.com/en/unternehmen/firmengeschichte.htm

Perhaps they've changed the process with negative results, I don't know, but it would still be called Tenifer because that's what Glock calls it (just a name).

They don't rust,

Oh yes they do--hand me one of your non-defective Glocks and I guarantee you that I can make it rust in no time. :evil:

Normally they wouldn't, though. ;)

and although I haven't tried it, I'd bet trying to cut one with a file would be difficult at best until, and if, you got throught the treated surface.

Again, hand me a Glock and I can remove the Tenifer from it easily--just give me some coarse sandpaper and a few minutes.

It isn't thick, but it is 70 (something hardness scale) and supposedly as hard as a file.

It's harder than a typical file, but then again diamond is harder than all of these materials, and if you hand me a diamond and a soft metal hammer, I can still smash it into a million bits.

So I guess the point here is to avoid handing me anything. ;) No, the actual point is that there is no such thing as absolutely impervious, indestructible materials (especially when they're defective to begin with).

The black stuff you see is now a paint, kind of shiny, but the old ones had the tenifer treated surface turned flat black, kind of like parkerizing (I don't pretend to be a metal expert, I am only parroting what I have heard and read).

The finish on top has definitely varied over time. It's pretty tough, too, as finishes go, but it does wear a lot faster than the Tenifer underneath.

I'd call Glock, a couple of times in case you get more than one story, and get to the bottom of it. In my experience, they shouldn't do this. The Glock even holds up well against salt water.

Agreed, although if saltwater gets to the springs and other parts inside, you could get rust on those fairly quickly.

That is why I kind of think you got one that missed getting treated maybe?

That or something went wrong with the treatment. Either way, I think that Glock should replace the slide (with a properly-treated one, I hope!).

Give it a good wipe down with oil, wipe it as dry as possible, then shine a cool white LED light on it. That shade of light is great for spotting rust.

Interesting, I would have expected that a light source that has more orange and red spectral content would be better for spotting rust. :scrutiny: Cool white LEDs typically have very little of those colors (unless they have an extremely high color rendering index, which is exceedingly rare). Perhaps incandescent lights and "warm" white LEDs have too much orange and red for this purpose, which can hurt contrast, and perhaps "neutral" white LEDs would be the best of all because in my experience they do help distinguish between certain colors better (particularly between green and brown on the ground, for example).

Glock's new finish is no where near as resistant to corrosion as their old finish, and quite honestly I don't think they're using Tenifer case hardening anymore, it looks like Melonite. People will say the two are the same thing but they're not, Tenifer is much better and easier to do correctly.

Like I said earlier, there are a number of different but related processes, any of which could be called "Tenifer" or "Melonite"--this is in accordance with what the company that developed them says, as referenced above. They are simply trade names. Apparently some folks have assigned these names to two specific processes, but the reality is that they're just names.

As for which two processes these are, I'm not sure what people have in mind. Usually when I see "Melonite" mentioned it is in reference to a process or set of processes that is/are used on certain stainless steels, as had been done on XDs and still on S&W M&Ps, for example. In that case, unless Glock has switched to using stainless steel, which I seriously doubt, I don't know why they'd use a process designed for stainless steel, but that's what people are effectively saying (perhaps without realizing it).

By the way, when the XD, which had been plagued by rust issues early on, was switched to chromoly slides (or plain stainless as an option), a different process was used--one that was probably very similar or identical to the process used on the chromoly slides of Glocks--for case hardening and corrosion resistance, but they still called it "Melonite" anyway (just a name). The "Melonite" process used on the M&P's stainless slide is different despite having the same name, and when done properly it does not appear to affect the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel. Sometimes defective ones reached the market, however, and it looks like the same is true all around, even for Glocks. :what:

And what did you mean by "it looks like Melonite"? The finish that you see on the outside is not Tenifer/Melonite, it's something different altogether.
 
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That copper anti sieze is nasty messy and can stick. I have also noticed very fine copperish stains in some Glocks. Mine has a little on top of the slide.

What about the small specks, are they spattered copper grease? :scrutiny:

If you have rust. Then you must have steel showing through. If you have steel showing through. Then you must have some grey tennifer showing through somewhere. I don't see gray tennifer, scratches, or nicks in the black and gray finish.

Maybe the finish is porous enough to allow some water through, rusting the metal underneath. In that case, I suppose that removing the rust would theoretically result in the appearance of bare metal (or defective Tenifer), although it still may be difficult to distinguish unless there is a sizable continuous area involved.

I'm not convinced it's rust. Unless Glock forgot to tennifer it and we're just looking at a thin black coating?

I've seen this before, which is probably why I don't find it SO difficult to believe. Here are a couple of examples:

http://gunlovers.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?p=15805&sid=bc3ad34e5edf9126e9575163f442baa4#15805

http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/rusty-tales/46728-think-you-got-rust.html
 
In the pictures, I'm seeing orange spots in the plastic frame.

Try cleaning the gun. See if the stuff comes off and, if it does, what the residue looks like. I don't know if it's rust or not and I don't think anyone else here knows either.
 
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