New Kimber 1911 Issues

[Ej3]

I recently received a new Kimber Stainless TLE II 1911 pistol.

Overall I am happy. However, after spending $1,000 on this gun, I would have not expected the issues indicated below. This is not intended as a Kimber bashing thread, but looking for some advice moving forward regarding Items 2 & 3.

1. It was impossible to remove the slide stop pin by pushing it out. I called Kimber and she said that it was normal and just super tight tolerances. Really, my friends Kimber pushes out with no problem and my RIA 1911 9mm also pushes out with no problem. I ended up using a small flat head screw driver to pop it out. I compared the slide stop pin to my friends Kimber slide stop pin. I saw the obvious problem and filed it down just enough so that is pops out with normal effort. So that problem was solved with minimal effort.


2. The slide randomly locks back with one or two rounds left in the magazine. I was using the stock 7 round Kimber magazine with FMJ RN 230 gr. bullets and Polycoated RN 230 gr. bullets, both set at 1.25” COL. My research found multiple potential causes.

• My finger or thumb is pushing up on the slide stop. I was shooting thumbs down and do not see this as a possible cause.
• The pistol needs a 300-500 round break in period, don’t worry about it until after a good break in. I have only shot about 150 rounds this past weekend.
• Kimber magazines are junk. Get a Wilson Combat or Chip McCormick.
• It’s a bad magazine, try a different one.
• Recoil is jarring the last round loose/forward and engaging the slide stop.
• Oil is on the follower allowing the final round(s) to slide forward more easily under recoil and engaging the slide stop.
• A weak follower spring. The last round is under the least amount of tension and more easily jarred forward under recoil, and engaging the slide stop. Replace the follower spring with a stiffer one.
• An out of spec lug on the slide stop is bumping the nose of the bullet. File it down as required, but be careful not to remove too much as then the magazine may not catch.

I am inclined to get a Wilson Combat 47 or 47D magazine to see how it performs. And, if after 500 rounds I still have this random problem with the slide locking back on the last round or two, I may take a chance on removing some off the inside face of the slide stop pin lug. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

3. Visually looking down on the rear sight, it is clearly off slightly to the left of center. And shooting off a bench/bag at 21 feet I see the impact is off. This gun has the fixed Meprolight tritium night sights, and the rear sight has a 1/16” allen set screw. I cannot loosen the screw, and even if I could, I have read that using a brass punch to drift the Meprolight tritium night sight is a bad idea. And, I understand that Kimber sights are VERY tight and you almost need a press to move them. I am not sure what to do regarding the adjustment of my rear sight. Perhaps I can find a local gunsmith that can help me. Or, maybe take a chance on something like the B&J Machine P500 Standard Universal Front and Rear Sight Tool. That is assuming I can eventually loosen the set screw without damaging it. Otherwise, it is very accurate. Below is 8 shots off the bench/bag at 21 feet.

 

[earlthegoat2]

I get the impression your using hand loads. If so, try some factory ammo to rule out any hand loading variances.

You have all the right places to check regarding the magazine and slide lock back problems.

Dud you modify the slide lock lever before or after you had problems with the slide locking back?

 

[Ej3]

I get the impression your using hand loads. If so, try some factory ammo to rule out any hand loading variances.

You have all the right places to check regarding the magazine and slide lock back problems.

Did you modify the slide lock lever before or after you had problems with the slide locking back?

Yes, hand loads. I will try to find some factory loads for testing purposes. I modified the slide lock lever to allow for easier removal after the slide was locking back.

 

[rbernie]

An out of spec lug on the slide stop is bumping the nose of the bullet. File it down as required, but be careful not to remove too much as then the magazine may not catch.

I suspect that handload OAL and slide stop geometry are at work, in opposition to each other. I have made handloads that would 'bump' the slide stop just right and get it to engage prematurely; reducing the OAL (and making sure that the slide stop lug geometry was correct) was the fix. It may be worth comparing the slide stop's lug to your friend's Kimber, just to see if you can spot differences in the lug dimension/geometry.

 

[Charlie98]

I have 2 4" Kimbers, and a buddy has a 3rd, and I've worked on all of them...

Try a different magazine, I switched to CMC PowerMags after the last cartridge or 2 were nosediving. After the switch, I've not had that problem since. I don't think Kimber factory mags are particularly good.

My buddy's Kimber had a very tight slide stop pin, but I put that down to the coating on his frame (it's a CDP.) I wonder if your slide lock-back problem isn't related to extra metal on the slide stop mag lug; if you can, swap it with another pin and see. I actually swapped in a stainless part from my old Springfield on my Pro Eclipse, although it works the same, the slide lock back behaves a little different... so different parts are different, even if they are the same.

I would try some factory ammos first, before I get all excited moving the rear sight around. I would take it to a gunsmith rather than try to drive it over myself, unless you have a quality sight tool.

 

[Steve in Allentown]

I may take a chance on removing some off the inside face of the slide stop pin lug. Any other suggestions are appreciated.

You've done a good job researching possible causes.

You can easily determine whether or not the bullets are contacting the slide stop lug by carefully inspecting the lug for brass smears from jacketed bullets or you can "paint" the lug using a Sharpie to see if it gets worn off through contact with non-jacketed bullets.

You can also remove the slide, push a magazine with one or more rounds loaded into it, and observe whether or not the bullet contacts the slide stop lug as you slowly insert the magazine. When I do this test I remove the plunger so it's not preventing upward movement of the slide stop. If there is no contact then pull the top round forward as far as possible without allowing it to escape the feed lips to duplicate and inertia feed then run the test again to see if there's contact.

If inertia feeding is indicated, the suggestion to try a different magazine is good. Add Tripp mags to the list. You can also replace the magazine spring with an 11lb extra power Wolff mag spring for about $7.

 

[Ej3]

I appreciate the suggestion on an actual replacement spring to try.

On another note, I had a LGS offer to drift my rear sight as a favor. Kimber must use JB Weld with their set screws! Or, maybe it was badly cross threaded. Either way, the Allen wrench broke off flush with the top of the screw. Luckily the set screw had backed out a little before breaking off. The sight is removed and I told him that I will try to send it back to Kimber to see if they will drill and remove the broken screw. If I cannot get them to help me and as tight as that dovetail sight is installed, I will take a chance that it will not move even without a set screw. I suppose the worse case scenario is I have to get a new sight and chalk it up to an expensive lesson learned.

I will probably buy a good sight pusher like the Wheeler Armorer's Front and Rear Handgun Sight Tool. The reviews at MidwayUSA seem to indicate it works well with 1911 and Kimber pistols. And, I am sure that I will have a need for it at some in the future anyway.

 

[Blue68f100]

There may have been some LocTite on the set screw. Add some heat and see if it smokes. If so there was and the heat just broke it down so the set screw can be removed. A soldering iron will work for this or a small torch. Only need to get to ~400 F for it release.

 

[3Crows]

Get rid of the OE magazine. Purchase the after market Kimber or Wilson or other quality magazine. Especially if this is the aluminum frame. The OE magazine will dig into the feed ramp.