New to reloading 9mm Luger
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Jim Watson
Member
Nope. Just get real 9mm dies and look loads up in the manual.
Do not be distressed if you cannot find a "recipe" for your 124 gr Brand X when there is plenty of data for 125 gr Brands Y, Z, and etc.
Do not be distressed if you cannot find a "recipe" for your 124 gr Brand X when there is plenty of data for 125 gr Brands Y, Z, and etc.
CZ9shooter
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9mm aint really any different than the calibers you already load for. All the same principles apply.
Personally, I like Lee dies. I usually skip their FCD, unless I am loading FMJs or JHPs, which is rare. Any brand dies are gonna work fine though. Stick with RCBS if that's what you know.
Personally, I like Lee dies. I usually skip their FCD, unless I am loading FMJs or JHPs, which is rare. Any brand dies are gonna work fine though. Stick with RCBS if that's what you know.
judgedelta
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Unless you're going to seat and crimp in the same step, the Lee set with the FCD is easier than having to reset your seater to crimp. Just my $0.02...
7mmb
Member
I use RCBS dies for 9mm because that's what I used in the other three cartridges I started loading before it (357 Magnum, 45 Auto and 45 Colt.) I do use the FCD though for the same reason judgedelta does. I don't seat and crimp in the same step and the FCD's setup is bonehead simple and makes changing the amount of crimp for different bullets a breeze. The post-sizing ring can be removed from the FCD if you don't want it but unless you are loading really oversized lead bullets to compensate for oversized throats in a revolver I don't think it will make a difference. If your 9mm bullets are big enough for the FCD to size them down then they probably wouldn't pass the plunk test in a pistol barrel.
I did add the Lyman M expander die later and it does allow for straighter bullet seating, especially when seating round noses. It's supposed to be really good when loading lead bullets to keep from shaving lead during bullet seating.
In 357 Magnum and 45 Colt I've also recently added Redding competition seating dies because I use several different bullets in those cartridges and they make adjusting seating depth a snap. With those two I now have four die sets with four different brands; RCBS to resize, Lyman to expand, Redding to seat, and Lee to crimp.
I did add the Lyman M expander die later and it does allow for straighter bullet seating, especially when seating round noses. It's supposed to be really good when loading lead bullets to keep from shaving lead during bullet seating.
In 357 Magnum and 45 Colt I've also recently added Redding competition seating dies because I use several different bullets in those cartridges and they make adjusting seating depth a snap. With those two I now have four die sets with four different brands; RCBS to resize, Lyman to expand, Redding to seat, and Lee to crimp.
medalguy
Member
One word of advice: CARBIDE DIES. Well that's actually two words but you get the idea.
I tried some HS6/115fmj yesterday. Very smooth shooting round out of my Sig P250 and hammer-fired LC9 (Yes I like crappy triggers)
YMMV but 6.1g of the HS6 did the job well at 7 yards. All shots placed in a 6" circle standing off-hand.
I ran 50 rounds through and one primer failure, a WSP. No pressure signs. Shells went into orbit but I found all of them......eventually!
)YMMV but 6.1g of the HS6 did the job well at 7 yards. All shots placed in a 6" circle standing off-hand.
I ran 50 rounds through and one primer failure, a WSP. No pressure signs. Shells went into orbit but I found all of them......eventually!
Ritchie
Member
9mm special considerations
Carbide dies are excellent, but since this is a straight taper case, a little lube is still helpful. Water soluble lube like RCBS Case Lube-2 can be removed by rubbing a few cases at a time on a wet cloth, and they will dry quickly. A taper crimp die is a really good idea, I use and like the RCBS. Lee dies are fine except their idea of a TC die is http://images.thehighroad.org/smilies/barf.gif
Lead bullets in 9mm tend to keyhole. I think this is because of the dimensions of the chamber and leade combined with the soft bare metal. Jacketed and plated bullets do not have this problem. Powder coated cast bullets also pretty much eliminate this problem. A lot of information on powder coating can be found here and on other boards. At least one major ammo maker offers polymer coated bullets in their loaded ammo.
Carbide dies are excellent, but since this is a straight taper case, a little lube is still helpful. Water soluble lube like RCBS Case Lube-2 can be removed by rubbing a few cases at a time on a wet cloth, and they will dry quickly. A taper crimp die is a really good idea, I use and like the RCBS. Lee dies are fine except their idea of a TC die is http://images.thehighroad.org/smilies/barf.gif
Lead bullets in 9mm tend to keyhole. I think this is because of the dimensions of the chamber and leade combined with the soft bare metal. Jacketed and plated bullets do not have this problem. Powder coated cast bullets also pretty much eliminate this problem. A lot of information on powder coating can be found here and on other boards. At least one major ammo maker offers polymer coated bullets in their loaded ammo.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
Since you are already using RCBS dies and they have excellent CS I see no reason to change companies. Just a note, the nitride sizing die made by Hornady makes sizing feel very smooth and easy. If you ring me a set of 9mm Hornady dies on sale they are also a good choice.
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Wreck-n-Crew
Member
Use carbide dies for 9mm. They run smoother with less sticking.
For basic 9mm loads the Lee dies work fine. Spending more for rifle dies makes more since than 9mm plinking rounds.
For basic 9mm loads the Lee dies work fine. Spending more for rifle dies makes more since than 9mm plinking rounds.
7mmb
Member
joneb,
Yes, two seater stems in my RCBS die set.
Yes, two seater stems in my RCBS die set.
armoredman
Member
I have a few years of empirical data the refutes that claim.
Properly SIZED and lubed lead bullets will work just fine. Powder coating is a lube I am most fond of right now, but Lee Liquid Alox and hard lube will also do the job just fine - LLA is VERY messy, though.
I picked up a RCBS 9x19, 9x21, 9x23 die set today, the price has gone up a bit like $15 from a year ago ***?
I have a new XDS 9mm I'm still breaking it in with some cheap reman. ammo.
My only problem with this gun has been with Aguila 9x19 147gr FP, the slide would not lock back on the last round.
So I have some Penn 140gr RNFP BHN 18 sized at .3565" that Penn bullets sent me for free to correct a screw up. these bullets have a cannalure and are intended for 357 Mag. But they leaded my Ruger Sec. Six so I have shelved them until now.
Yep, you guess it I plan on loading these in the 9x19.
I loaded two dummy rounds the one on the right was before the FP seater stem mod. the one on the left was after, I may need to mod. the FP seater plug some more.
I am confident this 140gr RNFP will work in the 9x19. I loaded two dummy rounds and gave them the slide slam test there was negliible set back.
I will try BE-86, Accurate #7, HS-6, VV n340 and WSF for a accurate load with this bullet
I have a new XDS 9mm I'm still breaking it in with some cheap reman. ammo.
My only problem with this gun has been with Aguila 9x19 147gr FP, the slide would not lock back on the last round.
So I have some Penn 140gr RNFP BHN 18 sized at .3565" that Penn bullets sent me for free to correct a screw up. these bullets have a cannalure and are intended for 357 Mag. But they leaded my Ruger Sec. Six so I have shelved them until now.
Yep, you guess it I plan on loading these in the 9x19.
I loaded two dummy rounds the one on the right was before the FP seater stem mod. the one on the left was after, I may need to mod. the FP seater plug some more.I am confident this 140gr RNFP will work in the 9x19. I loaded two dummy rounds and gave them the slide slam test there was negliible set back.
I will try BE-86, Accurate #7, HS-6, VV n340 and WSF for a accurate load with this bullet
AzShooter1
Member
9mm is easy to load. I'm using a variety of coated bullets. Advantage: a different color for each weight or powder charge.
Spray your cases with Hornady One Shot case lube before loading and you won't have any problems with your brass. It makes the cases go through the sizing die with little effort. You don't have to wipe it off.
Spray your cases with Hornady One Shot case lube before loading and you won't have any problems with your brass. It makes the cases go through the sizing die with little effort. You don't have to wipe it off.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
I shot lots of lubed MBC lead bullets in 9mm with no issues. I like the MBC 125gr cones a lot.
Having said that I like the coated ones better now that MBC offers them.
Current favorite practice bullet is the RMR 9mm 124 FN, favorite powder is WSF.
I use Lee dies (carbide) and have never lubed a 9mm case and don't see any reason to.
I also used the FCD with the MBC bullets with no issues. It is adjustable, I tend to use it almost all the time in 9mm.
Some people like it, some hate it, I happen to like it.
No issuses seating JHP, RNs, SWC, or FNs with the seater than came in my Lee die.
Having said that I like the coated ones better now that MBC offers them.
Current favorite practice bullet is the RMR 9mm 124 FN, favorite powder is WSF.
I use Lee dies (carbide) and have never lubed a 9mm case and don't see any reason to.
I also used the FCD with the MBC bullets with no issues. It is adjustable, I tend to use it almost all the time in 9mm.
Some people like it, some hate it, I happen to like it.
No issuses seating JHP, RNs, SWC, or FNs with the seater than came in my Lee die.
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TimSr
Member
Yep! Carbide or titanium (Hornady version). Not having to lube is nice.
If you are already loading .380, 9mm is the same only a lot less finicky. OP didn't ask about cast bullets, but I've never loaded one that keyholed in any gun they were shot from. The only thing to watch with cast bullets is that some .380s won't fit 380s' loaded with .356 bullets made for 9mm. Some will.
atblis
Member
A few things, some trivia...
9x19 is not straight walled. It actually has a taper to it. Bordering on semantics....
Definitely get carbide dies, but still use lube as it makes everything run much slicker even though technically you don't need it. This is especially true on a progressive press like an XL650. Hornady Oneshot is perfect for this.
Most issues people create in the flaring and subsequent crimping operations. I highly recommend using the Lyman M die for expanding. It does multiple things depending on how you adjust. For 9mm and other jacketed pistol rounds, I adjust it to add a a very slight step. The bullets sit right on top of the case for easy seating. I usually don't crimp as after seating there's no flare to remove.
The Lee factory crimp die is a crutch and causes more problems than it solves and covers up issues that should be fixed rather than bandaiding. Remove the BS carbide ring at the bottom and it's an okay stand alone crimper.
I gave up on cast lead for 9mm. Not worth the hassle.
9x19 is not straight walled. It actually has a taper to it. Bordering on semantics....
Definitely get carbide dies, but still use lube as it makes everything run much slicker even though technically you don't need it. This is especially true on a progressive press like an XL650. Hornady Oneshot is perfect for this.
Most issues people create in the flaring and subsequent crimping operations. I highly recommend using the Lyman M die for expanding. It does multiple things depending on how you adjust. For 9mm and other jacketed pistol rounds, I adjust it to add a a very slight step. The bullets sit right on top of the case for easy seating. I usually don't crimp as after seating there's no flare to remove.
The Lee factory crimp die is a crutch and causes more problems than it solves and covers up issues that should be fixed rather than bandaiding. Remove the BS carbide ring at the bottom and it's an okay stand alone crimper.
I gave up on cast lead for 9mm. Not worth the hassle.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
I have a MAK and after a while you can spot the 9mm/9MAK/380 cases. Just a matter of getting used to looking for them. If you take a sharpie and mark the bottom of the MAK cases that will make it easier to sort them out. I got a pack of 6 or 8 different color sharpies from Wally World and use them to mark 9MAK brass as well as different load combos. It will come off when cleaning the brass but otherwise seems to stay on well.
Only trimmed a few 9mm to MAK length, I decided it's just as easy to buy S+B or Privi ammo for case donation, but I still need to sort them out.
Also since the MAK are larger DIA sizing them back to 9mm takes more effort than sizing a 9mm case, so you can feel ooppppssss MAK case.
I don't want to side track the thread into another Lee FCD debate but,
The FCD is behaves different in 9mm because of the case taper. The ring at the bottom has to be big enough for the bottom of the case so if adjusted properly it will not cause issues.
9mm base .391, neck .380 so unless it sizes the bottom to .380 there is no need to remove the ring it can pass over the neck and bullet.
Like I mentioned earlier some people like it some don't, you never know until you try it. Is it necessary no, but I feel it is unfair to say people who like and use it are using a crutch and using it to cover up "problems" that should be fixed not bandaided. It's still a sort of free country so everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
I loaded lots of lead with my Lee dies no issues, but I hear the M die (and clones are nice.
I load 9mm on my Hornady LNL progressive and never lube the cases, never lube on my Lee turret either.
Only trimmed a few 9mm to MAK length, I decided it's just as easy to buy S+B or Privi ammo for case donation, but I still need to sort them out.
Also since the MAK are larger DIA sizing them back to 9mm takes more effort than sizing a 9mm case, so you can feel ooppppssss MAK case.
I don't want to side track the thread into another Lee FCD debate but,
The FCD is behaves different in 9mm because of the case taper. The ring at the bottom has to be big enough for the bottom of the case so if adjusted properly it will not cause issues.
9mm base .391, neck .380 so unless it sizes the bottom to .380 there is no need to remove the ring it can pass over the neck and bullet.
Like I mentioned earlier some people like it some don't, you never know until you try it. Is it necessary no, but I feel it is unfair to say people who like and use it are using a crutch and using it to cover up "problems" that should be fixed not bandaided. It's still a sort of free country so everyone is entitled to their own opinion.
I loaded lots of lead with my Lee dies no issues, but I hear the M die (and clones are nice.
I load 9mm on my Hornady LNL progressive and never lube the cases, never lube on my Lee turret either.
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armoredman
Member
Not trying to start an argument in any way, but genuinely curious - what is the "hassle" you experienced?
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