New (Used) Baby Rock


Jul 18, 2021
Duke City
This was the only one available at a good price, all the other outlets were either out of stock or priced too high.
The slide's not too heavy and the trigger isn't too bad, I'll look into fluffing and buffing when I take it apart to refinish it. Thinking about chrome finishing it. I actually like the rubber grips so they will most likely stay on it.


Gave it a few hours, still not budging. I'm wondering if the previous owner had a problem with it backing out and maybe bubba "fixed" it with red Loctite......... Maybe try to heat it tomorrow and see if that doesn't free it up. Having never had to heat a firearm to remove something any advice would be appreciated.

Heck, if push comes to shove I could always drill it out on the press and install a new pin.
I hit the slide with Citristrip, didn't bubble up like paint but it's coming off easily which leads me to believe it was skinned.

Actually Mahovsky is inexpensive. And these look as good now as when first done. The Hi Power finish is about 13 years old. And that's an inexpensive gun(at the time). And if you just do the slide alone, WAY less money. Whole pistol with an extra mag is $135 + $20 for return shipping. I forget what just a slide is.
Also did a Rock Island Arms Compact 1911 that I bought off my buddy for $300. Would throw that pic in, but apparently I need to learn how to size my pictures, lol! I will soon send in a Zastava M70 .32. I just really love the ease of maintenance. Firearms that I carry are hard chromed or stainless.
I finally remembered I had some Ballistol I bought a while back, sprayed down the stubborn pin, let it sit for a few hours and it finally came out. Still took some hammering and now I know why it was sooooo stubborn. It had never been completely stripped down and it was filthy. Of course upon discovering this I carefully checked every part and other than the insides being dirty everything looks fine. Now to use the Ballistol on the extractor pin that also is being stubborn.
I started to paint the frame but something is wrong, for some reason I'm getting bubbles and runs. Sanded it back down to the primer but it happened again. I think the problem is in the primer, it was an old can so I'll sand it back to bare metal and hit it with a new can of primer.
Use a de greaser after you sand it.
I hit it with acetone 4 times then again with rubbing alcohol after the first re-sanding. I'm also going to try the top paint from a little farther away, it may be coming out a little thicker than I'm used to. However the only place it's happening is on the grip and no where else. As it is I'll let it sit for a few days then pick up a new can of primer and try again, if it doesn't work the I'll have determined it's the chrome paint then maybe just go with the silver I already have.
I said the heck with it and went with the silver. I like silver. Now I have the paint the bullets......, just in case I run up against any werewolves.........


Even debated getting a can of dark turquoise or dark blue to paint the smaller pieces........ o_O:cool:
I finally got the extractor pin out, don't know if it was put in bent or if I did it trying to remove it. The extractor has so much crud on it I had to use pliers to pull it loose.
After turning two of my punches into S hooks trying to get it out I ground the taper down on an old nail punch with a Dremel, that worked. Next to finish stripping the slide, prepping and painting it.

Everything is painted and oven baked but waiting on the new extractor pin to arrive to put it back together. Decided to go back to the chrome paint and will hit it with a couple of clear coats to help protect the finish.


As you can tell I also removed the black coating off the barrel.
After even a few days the paint still has a slight tacky feel to it. Then I noticed my fingerprints in the paint......... :mad:

Starting a complete re-strip and I definitely won't be using the chrome paint.
After even a few days the paint still has a slight tacky feel to it

In NM it may be counter intuitive, but you might need a "warming box" to let the paint dry within. Not much, but maybe 10-20° warmer than ambient--like 3-4 work lights with 75 or 100 watt lamps or similar.

Warming the parts before painting may help, too.

You may need to increase the distance from nozzle to object to get lighter coats, too.

BluTac on straightened-out wire coat hangers for the smaller bits will give you some control of those to "fog" the paint on.
I finally finished repainting everything and am in the process of putting it back together. It's the reassembly from hell......... Basically miniaturized parts and large, beefy fingers....... Oh and somewhere along the way the main spring housing pin went on a walkabout and didn't tell me where it was going. A replacement is on the way. Have some touch up to do.

For pretty much any at home spray can jobs I've started using the Brownells Aluma-hyde stuff with no primer - just degreasing.

It holds up darned well for coming out of a can so long as you give it ample cure time (I usually just spray the part then hang it up and leave it alone for a few weeks).