Newbie needs advice on handgun choice

[defjon]

Since you mention the possibility of future concealed carry allow me to recommend two choices.

I don't recall a cost factor shared, but I think a Smith and Wesson model 63 would be a great choice.

It is a 22lr revolver. The most recent example has a 3 inch barrel and will hold 8 rounds of ammunition. I think that makes it viable for self defense. It is single action and double action so you can cock the hammer to fire if the trigger is too heavy, unlike something like the lcr22 that is only double action and the trigger pull is very heavy.

My other recommendation if cost is a factor, as Smith and Wesson revolvers are usually quite expensive (over 600), is a Taurus ply 22.

This is usually around 200 dollars. It's a semi automatic 8 round pistol. Small and pocket sized. It fires well and in my experience is reliable using CCI mini mags. It has a flip up barrel so you can load a round right into the barrel. Very safe easy to do.

 

[defjon]

If you hadn't mentioned ccw, I might recommend the Ruger wrangler. Affordable, reliable, good single action trigger.

 

[triplebike]

Mia, I recommend you stay away from anything "Taurus". Taurus has the worst customer service, If the firearm has a problem and you have to send it in for repair It will be gone at least 12 WEEKS. If it's going to be your only form of self defense , do you really want it to be without for that period of time?

On the other hand Ruger has the best customer service with a turn around of about 12 DAYS. So the Ruger wrangler would be a much, much better choice. Ruger products are also a better made, better designed firearm.

Stay away from anything Taurus, there are much better choices.

 

[Pat Riot]

I don't recall a cost factor shared, but I think a Smith and Wesson model 63 would be a great choice.

I have an S&W model 63. It’s a fairly heavy revolver for it’s size. It’s fairly accurate. The problem I had with it was the barrel to cylinder gap was way off when I got it. It was 0.015” on the left side and 0.005” on the right. I sent it in to S&W and they fixed it and I had it back 14 days after I shipped it. Great turnaround that shouldn’t have been needed had they had some QC involved in the making of the revolver.

 

[golden]

Mia,

You have probably heard this before, but TRY BEFORE YOU BUY! My wife is petite and now suffers from arthritis in her hands and wrists. She used to qualify with a .38 Special when she worked for the U.S. MARSHALL'S and then kept a GLOCK 19 for home protection. Things have changed. Now she uses either a GLOCK 42, which she can handle and shoot well enough and does not have a problem wracking the slide or a BERETTA Tomcat, which she can easily load by using the tip-up barrel feature.

I am sure that at least one or two ranges will have a GLOCK 42 for rent. I recommend shooting a full 50 rounds with it. If you can do that and hit the center mass of a target at 7 yards at least or better at 10 yards, you are good to go.

My sister in law used a CHARTER ARMS Undercover, a five shot .38 and wants only to carry that. When we last went to the range, she had two of them, her main gun and backup and shot them. I thought she did not do well with them. Then she shot her husband's GLOCK 26 and it was night and day, her groups were clustered much more tightly and her recovery time was shorter. Yet, she want to carry the Undercover revolvers!

I would recommend against a revolvers unless you can shoot them well. Also, do not get caught up in the "SNUBBY" mindset that seems to think the only gun you should carry is a 5 shot, 2 inch barreled revolver.
I have been in law enforcement for 29 years and if I wanted to carry a revolver again, it would be a mid-size 6 shot revolver with a 4 inch barrel.
This is not practical for a pocket or ankle carry, but is not nearly as hard to conceal as some people let on. Wearing a jacket, vest, or slightly oversized shirt can cover a .357 magnum quite well.
A four inch .38 Special like the S&W model 10 or RUGER Security Six (no longer in production) or the new RUGER SP-101 with the 4.2 inch barrel would all be good choices as they are accurate, powerful with the right ammo and still easy to control without weighing you down.

The longer barrel on either a 5 or 6 shot revolvers increases the practical accuracy (what you are capable of when shooting a particular gun, not what the gun is capable of) and stopping power as a 4 inch barrel may add 100 feet per second or more to the velocity of any round when it is fired from the longer barrel. At the very least, consider a 3 inch barrel on something like a CHARTER ARMS, S&W or TAURUS 5 shot revolvers.

Other advantages of a longer barrel are REDUCED NOISE, FLASH and MUZZLE BLAST! I capitalize to point out that three factors can be the difference between enjoying what you are shooting and just trying to get through it, which will do nothing for you trying to hit the target.

I would also avoid "LIGHTWEIGT", usually aluminum framed revolvers. They feel great in the hand, but kick harder and are more difficult to control and hit your target with. My Dad's old TAURUS 85 and my S&W model 38 were about the same size, but the steel framed TAURUS was much easier to shoot with both guns using the same ammo.

Start by deciding if you want to conceal carry your gun or not. If not, then go for a bigger gun, if you can handle it. My wife can no longer handle the extra weight of a mid size gun. If it is too be a house or car gun, then you have more options. A single stack 9m.m. with a steel or aluminum frame might work well for you as far as your ability to shoot it. You might also find some of the mid to large size .380ACP pistols would be a better choice than a smaller gun like the GLOCK 42.

Also, consider the ammo you will use. Some rounds have much heavier recoil that others. I found the .38 Special +P 125 or 130 grain round can be very effective and has noticeably less recoil that the old +P .38 Special 158 grain semi wadcutter hollow point round that was popular for many years with police departments. I keep FEDERAL 130 grain +P HST round in my .38 Specials for home defense.

On last suggestion, once you have you gun, shoot a regular routine. Start with say a 20 round course. At 5 yards, shoot 2 shots in a row, often called a double tap with both hands do this at least 4 or 5 times. Then move the target out to 7 yards and shoot 2 rounds at a time for the rest of the 20 rounds. When you get used to it, the shoot at the 5 yard range with one hand. Start with you strong hand and shoot 2 rounds at a time, twice. Then switch to your left hand and shot 4 more rounds. This way, you will learn strong, weak handed drills.
As you become more proficient, increase the range to 10 yards. This is the minimum you should try for. Start out with practice ammo, then make sure you can do it with your chosen self defense ammo.

Good luck,

Jim
Also, as you get better, try failure to stop drills. This would be one or two shots to center mass (the center of the chest) and then one to the head. Seven yards is fine for practicing this. It could save your life when attacked by someone who is high on drugs, drunk or just determined to hurt you.

 

[old lady new shooter]

Mia,

You have probably heard this before, but TRY BEFORE YOU BUY! My wife is petite and now suffers from arthritis in her hands and wrists. She used to qualify with a .38 Special when she worked for the U.S. MARSHALL'S and then kept a GLOCK 19 for home protection. Things have changed. Now she uses either a GLOCK 42, which she can handle and shoot well enough and does not have a problem wracking the slide or a BERETTA Tomcat, which she can easily load by using the tip-up barrel feature.

I am sure that at least one or two ranges will have a GLOCK 42 for rent. I recommend shooting a full 50 rounds with it. If you can do that and hit the center mass of a target at 7 yards at least or better at 10 yards, you are good to go.

My sister in law used a CHARTER ARMS Undercover, a five shot .38 and wants only to carry that. When we last went to the range, she had two of them, her main gun and backup and shot them. I thought she did not do well with them. Then she shot her husband's GLOCK 26 and it was night and day, her groups were clustered much more tightly and her recovery time was shorter. Yet, she want to carry the Undercover revolvers!

I would recommend against a revolvers unless you can shoot them well. Also, do not get caught up in the "SNUBBY" mindset that seems to think the only gun you should carry is a 5 shot, 2 inch barreled revolver.
I have been in law enforcement for 29 years and if I wanted to carry a revolver again, it would be a mid-size 6 shot revolver with a 4 inch barrel.
This is not practical for a pocket or ankle carry, but is not nearly as hard to conceal as some people let on. Wearing a jacket, vest, or slightly oversized shirt can cover a .357 magnum quite well.
A four inch .38 Special like the S&W model 10 or RUGER Security Six (no longer in production) or the new RUGER SP-101 with the 4.2 inch barrel would all be good choices as they are accurate, powerful with the right ammo and still easy to control without weighing you down.

The longer barrel on either a 5 or 6 shot revolvers increases the practical accuracy (what you are capable of when shooting a particular gun, not what the gun is capable of) and stopping power as a 4 inch barrel may add 100 feet per second or more to the velocity of any round when it is fired from the longer barrel. At the very least, consider a 3 inch barrel on something like a CHARTER ARMS, S&W or TAURUS 5 shot revolvers.

Other advantages of a longer barrel are REDUCED NOISE, FLASH and MUZZLE BLAST! I capitalize to point out that three factors can be the difference between enjoying what you are shooting and just trying to get through it, which will do nothing for you trying to hit the target.

I would also avoid "LIGHTWEIGT", usually aluminum framed revolvers. They feel great in the hand, but kick harder and are more difficult to control and hit your target with. My Dad's old TAURUS 85 and my S&W model 38 were about the same size, but the steel framed TAURUS was much easier to shoot with both guns using the same ammo.

Start by deciding if you want to conceal carry your gun or not. If not, then go for a bigger gun, if you can handle it. My wife can no longer handle the extra weight of a mid size gun. If it is too be a house or car gun, then you have more options. A single stack 9m.m. with a steel or aluminum frame might work well for you as far as your ability to shoot it. You might also find some of the mid to large size .380ACP pistols would be a better choice than a smaller gun like the GLOCK 42.

Also, consider the ammo you will use. Some rounds have much heavier recoil that others. I found the .38 Special +P 125 or 130 grain round can be very effective and has noticeably less recoil that the old +P .38 Special 158 grain semi wadcutter hollow point round that was popular for many years with police departments. I keep FEDERAL 130 grain +P HST round in my .38 Specials for home defense.

On last suggestion, once you have you gun, shoot a regular routine. Start with say a 20 round course. At 5 yards, shoot 2 shots in a row, often called a double tap with both hands do this at least 4 or 5 times. Then move the target out to 7 yards and shoot 2 rounds at a time for the rest of the 20 rounds. When you get used to it, the shoot at the 5 yard range with one hand. Start with you strong hand and shoot 2 rounds at a time, twice. Then switch to your left hand and shot 4 more rounds. This way, you will learn strong, weak handed drills.
As you become more proficient, increase the range to 10 yards. This is the minimum you should try for. Start out with practice ammo, then make sure you can do it with your chosen self defense ammo.

Good luck,

Jim
Also, as you get better, try failure to stop drills. This would be one or two shots to center mass (the center of the chest) and then one to the head. Seven yards is fine for practicing this. It could save your life when attacked by someone who is high on drugs, drunk or just determined to hurt you.

You left out the Colt King Cobra. Very accurate and the trigger is only 9 lbs. 3" barrel makes it quite concealable.

 

[Kleanbore]

Thanks entropy.

I'll start by sharing my journey, then add what I hope will be helpful advice.

I am under 5'1", I have large palms although not long fingers, but not so much strength any more. I'm now in my 70's.

At age 67 I realized a firearm would be a good thing to own and know how to use. I grew up in a city and had never even shot a squirt gun. A class was offered that I felt comfortable going to, so I signed up. Although it was billed as a beginner introduction, only I and one other lady had never shot before. They first gave us "blue guns" to learn what a gun feels like and to drill into us the habit of not putting the finger in the trigger guard until ready to fire. Then it was time to shoot, a little voice was going "I'm not ready!" but I went up anyway since everyone else was. We proceeded to shoot a 22, a 38 revolver, then 9 mm, 40's and 45's. I did well with the 22, 38 and 45, the 9 and 40 were all over the place. I do not have any explanation for this. The main thing I got out of it was actually having fired.

Blabla, then I went to my local gun shop/range for a one-on-one lesson. From what I had learned by then I had already decided I wanted a revolver -- I am not mechanical and was terrified of having a gun I would have to take apart to clean.* The Ruger SP-101 I could not even complete the trigger pull on. The GP-100 fit my hand well. I wanted to try a Smith 686 Plus (because it has 7 shots). I didn't much like the grip it came with, largely due to the finger grooves, but it was nice to shoot, the trigger is very smooth. At a subsequent range visit they actually let me take both the GP-100 and the 686 Plus at the same time and I tested them alternately to avoid hand fatigue playing a role in my decision. I had decided on a 4" barrel because I had read it is more accurate and has less recoil. The Smith was way more accurate for me, so that's the one I selected. After I got it I put on a different grip (Hogue grooveless) that is more comfortable for me because it is fatter and my fingers are not constrained by the predefined grooves. At the time I lived in California where nobody gets a carry permit so the size wasn't a factor, but it is pretty big.

* A point about revolvers vs semi-auto that I did not know at the time but have since learned is that many semi-autos are very fussy about how they are held and may fail to fire just because of that, one thing I keep reading about is "limp-wristing".

Fast-forward to two years ago, I moved to Arizona which is consistently ranked the most gun-friendly state in the country. Here a person can carry concealed even without a permit. (A permit has advantages though, notably reciprocity with all the other states that give permits, and I now have one.) So I thought a small revolver would be ideal. In Cali I could never find a range that rented them, so I had never shot one. A friend in another state had an extra Model 36 he wanted to sell and I bought it from him. My range visit with it was extremely disappointing. I could not shoot it anywhere near as accurately as my 686 and it was also painful, with every shot the back of the teeny-tiny grip jammed into the soft tissue between my thumb and forefinger. Being that it's a somewhat collectible year and style, I kept it, but it just sits in my safe.

Shortly thereafter Colt came out with a new version of the King Cobra, which I was very interested to try because I read that the trigger was only 9 pounds, compared to about 12 pounds for a Smith. It comes with a 3" barrel and I believe also shoots .357 magnum although I only use .38 special. This fits my hand like it was made for me, shoots accurately, and is enough smaller than my 686 that I can carry it concealed, so that's what I now carry.

Moving right along, I now recently acquired an AR, in order to have something for home defense more powerful and with larger ammo capacity. I had one lesson and one range visit prior to COVID, and liked shooting it. With a lot of help from all the wonderful folks here on THR I learned how to take it apart, clean and lube it, put it back together, mount, zero, and use a sight. My first time doing those things took me three sessions of about two or three hours each because I was so freaked out, but now I can do it. It's very nice to shoot, no recoil to speak of. I still need to learn how to use a sling.

.........................

The first piece of advice is try different guns and go with the one YOU shoot most accurately and most comfortably.

A couple of other things I've learned:

1. A revolver is good to learn to shoot on even if you decide you want a semi-auto. This is because the trigger is heavy and the pull is long, so you don't have a chance to get into bad shooting habits like flinching. A smooth trigger pull is very important. Practice dry-firing (using "snap caps" instead of real rounds) in your house. Put a dime on the end of the muzzle, when you "fire" the dime should not fall off.

2. Accuracy is the most important thing. Start at as close as 3 yards, when you can make a ragged hole, move back to 5 yards, and so forth. One thing that will help with accuracy is to maintain focus on the front sight even after you pull the trigger.

3. As soon as you are comfortable shooting with a two-handed grip, learn to shoot with only one hand. When you can do it with your strong-side hand, add your weak-side hand. If G-d forbid you are ever in a Situation, the bad guy may shoot you in one arm, but as long as you are alive you are still in the fight. Many people slightly cant the hand to shoot one-handed, I prefer standing sideways which I understand is really old-fashioned but that doesn't bother me. You will be pleasantly surprised to learn that shooting one-handed is not difficult if you learned to shoot two-handed without developing any bad habits.

4. Regarding not being able to rack the slide on a semi-auto, I think there is a way to do it that is not how men usually do it, I remember a lady who used to post here called Officer's Wife who described how her grandmother had taught her, I think it was similar to how I operate the charging handle on my AR -- I can't do it using my left hand with the gun mounted to my shoulder, but I can do it by bracing the butt against my midsection and using my right hand.

Now that I've used up way more than my share of pixels, I'll just close by saying you picked the best gun forum on the internet, everybody here is happy to help, so keep us posted on your progress and never hesitate to ask more questions.

Upon rereading this post in a leisurely manner and giving it more thought, I have a couple of comments.

First, RE: the advice. I like it a lot--a whole lot.

I can add one thing on racking a slide: the S&W Shield EZ series are excellent from that standpoint. I have the 9.

Also people should refer to The Cornered Cat for a discussion on slide racking

Regarding the account of the "journey": I enjoyed the story. For some reason, it brought to mind an article that I read some six decades ago about two women who decided to acquire a firearm for protection; they bought a nine shot High Standard Sentinel .22 revolver and learned to use it, and had started looking for something more potent. I cannot remember the author--perhaps it was Henry M. Stebbins, or maybe Lucian Cary.

That dates me.

I started shooting long arms in 1957, and handguns about four years later. Concealed carrying started in 2008. I did not avail myself of any defensive pistol training until some time after that. I really recommend it. Not just shooting, but being ready and aware, moving, etc. I add that to advice I might be giving.

I move slowly, and my balance is impaired by peripheral neuropathy. That, the need to use a walking stick, and the layout of our two storey house have led to carrying indoors, and it indicates to a large extent against a long arm for defense for me.

Back to the post above: I intend to refer people to it from time to time.

What bought this up? Though I don't need one, I have been looking at a three-inch Colt King Cobra. I knew that the poster has one, and motivated by a favorable comment from Old Dog today or yesterday, I searched for this.

It is, I think, a better read than a lot of old articles by Cary and Stebbins, who are out of print.

At least for me, at my age.

 

[entropy]

I would also avoid "LIGHTWEIGT", usually aluminum framed revolvers. They feel great in the hand, but kick harder and are more difficult to control and hit your target with. My Dad's old TAURUS 85 and my S&W model 38 were about the same size, but the steel framed TAURUS was much easier to shoot with both guns using the same ammo.

OTOH, I wouldn't count them out just because of that. When SWMBO and I were at the range so she could try out my handguns, SHE didn't like my S&W BodyGuard 38, but a friend and his wife were there also, and I offer Jeff's wife a couple cylinders full out of it, and she loved it. He was 'mad' at me, because now he has to find an S&W 442 or BodyGuard 38 for her! ( I suggested the 442 over the BodyGuard.)

 

[golden]

Old Lady,

I have not personally handled the NEW COLT Cobra. My experience with an original was very negative. The recoil made it unpleasant unless I put a pair of full size PACHMAYR rubber grips on it. With the awful COLT grips on it, I found the recoil much worse than my S&W 36 with PACHMAYR Professional Compact grips or my CHARTER ARMS Undercover with the factory rubber grips.
I gave my mother a 3rd generation COLT Detective Special and when I shot it, it was no problem, even with the original wooden grips. However, it was heavier than I liked for pocket carry and if I use a holster, I want a more powerful gun like a 9m.m., .40 S&W or .357 magnum.

I have also owned a .38 Special COLT DS VI with a 3 inch barrel, which COLT made before they exited the revolver business. It shot ok, but it was bulkier than my SPRINGFIELD ARMORY XD9 Sub Compact 9m.m., which holds 14 rounds inside a similar size. It just did not make sense for me as a .38 Special.

Because of the price of the new ones and my general dislike of revolvers with less than a 4 inch barrel, I have not tried the new ones. I find the 4.2 inch KING COBRA TARGET interesting, but have not handled or shot one yet.

As a rule, I will not comment on guns that I have not personally shot. It is way to easy to put my foot in my mouth if I do.

Jim

 

[golden]

Entropy,

I am going on my own experience. When I was younger and less recoil sensitive, I did not mind snub nose .357 or .44 magnums and usually used .45ACP with aluminum frames. I loved those Lightweight Commanders.

Times change and so do we. My experience is what I base my opinions on and if a person cannot shoot a steel frame gun comfortably, then the odds against them shooting a lightweight version of the same gun as well, are much higher.
I also used to think that an aluminum gun was easier to conceal which I have found in my own experience, not always to be true. I carried a S&W model 38 ( aluminum J-framed 5 shot .38 Special revolver), in a pocket holster for years. Later, I found the S&W model 36, just as easy to conceal in my pocket or in a good quality outside the waistband holster. The steel framed model 36 was exactly the same frame size and a few ounces heavier. It was also easier to shoot.

Along with the 5 shot aluminum guns, I have two S&W model 12's and a COLT Viper. The two 4 inch .38 Specials, one of the model 12's and the Viper are controllable with practice, when shooting +P ammo, but side by side comparisons with my aluminum framed S&W model 12 and steel framed S&W model 15, both are K-frame size revolvers, with rubber grips. My own testing, show a real advantage is lessening recoil and shortening recovery time between shots when using +P ammo for the steel framed model 15.

If you can shoot a full qualification drill with an aluminum framed gun, then that is fine. I would however, recommend that a new shooter, try both a steel and aluminum or scandium alloy revolver side by side and see which is easier to shoot and which gets a higher score. The reality, is that both are in most cases, just as concealable.

Jim

 

[Kleanbore]

I have not personally handled the NEW COLT Cobra. My experience with an original was very negative. The recoil made it unpleasant unless I put a pair of full size PACHMAYR rubber grips on it. With the awful COLT grips on it, I found the recoil much worse than my S&W 36 with PACHMAYR Professional Compact grips or my CHARTER ARMS Undercover with the factory rubber grips.

Do not compare a 1950s era aluminum D frame revolver with a new steel King Cobra.

 

[golden]

Kleanbore,

I only speak about guns that I have actually handled and shot.

I did not compare the original COBRA to the new KING COBRA at all. If I did, please point out where.

Since Entropy brought up aluminum S&W J-frames, I thought my experience with an aluminum framed gun like the original COBRA, was quite relevant. I also talked about my experience with the S&W J-frames in both steel and aluminum.


My experience with a KING COBRA sized guns was with the DS-VI, which is basically a KING COBRA chambered for .38 special! I found it too heavy for what it offered, which did not include the .357 magnum round. I do not see anything there that has changed. The DS-VI, new COBRA and KING COBRA are too heavy to carry concealed as a .38 Special, in the way that I would use them. I cannot carry them in a pocket holster and they are underpowered in .38 Special, for their weight, in my opinion.
The new KING COBRA, is a holster gun to me and offers the .357 magnum option, which is why I find the KING COBRA TARGET in interesting revolver. I just have not had an opportunity to shoot one, yet.

Jim

 

[Oldschool shooter]

Another option could be the LCR chambered in 327. Less recoil than a .38 Spcl. If the recoil is too harsh, more power than a 22. As many others here have suggested, a range with rental guns and instructors is the best route to go.

 

[entropy]

Entropy,

I am going on my own experience. When I was younger and less recoil sensitive, I did not mind snub nose .357 or .44 magnums and usually used .45ACP with aluminum frames. I loved those Lightweight Commanders.

Times change and so do we. My experience is what I base my opinions on and if a person cannot shoot a steel frame gun comfortably, then the odds against them shooting a lightweight version of the same gun as well, are much higher.
I also used to think that an aluminum gun was easier to conceal which I have found in my own experience, not always to be true. I carried a S&W model 38 ( aluminum J-framed 5 shot .38 Special revolver), in a pocket holster for years. Later, I found the S&W model 36, just as easy to conceal in my pocket or in a good quality outside the waistband holster. The steel framed model 36 was exactly the same frame size and a few ounces heavier. It was also easier to shoot.

Along with the 5 shot aluminum guns, I have two S&W model 12's and a COLT Viper. The two 4 inch .38 Specials, one of the model 12's and the Viper are controllable with practice, when shooting +P ammo, but side by side comparisons with my aluminum framed S&W model 12 and steel framed S&W model 15, both are K-frame size revolvers, with rubber grips. My own testing, show a real advantage is lessening recoil and shortening recovery time between shots when using +P ammo for the steel framed model 15.

If you can shoot a full qualification drill with an aluminum framed gun, then that is fine. I would however, recommend that a new shooter, try both a steel and aluminum or scandium alloy revolver side by side and see which is easier to shoot and which gets a higher score. The reality, is that both are in most cases, just as concealable.

Jim

My friend's wife has shot quite a few guns in her search for what she likes. Everything from a Buckmark to an LCP to several 1911's. She tried my revolver and liked it. She shot it well, even holding the muzzle rise to a minimum, I was really impressed. She shot it better than I did.

BTW, My 1911 is a PT1911AR. Aluminum, Railed.

I had an original Cobra also, actually traded it for the BodyGuard 38. Still kicking myself for that one.

Yes, the steel-framed J-frames are just as concealable. My sister traded her aluminum framed 642 for the steel version beacuse she did not like shooting it. She eventually got a Glock 26 (her husband carries a 19), and gave the 642 to her daughter.

I wasn't trying to convince you of anything. And like you, I won't comment on anything I haven't shot myself. Just offering my experiences relating to women choosing guns, and I will agree with many here. It's best to let them try several different types and decide for themselves what they like and will shoot regularly. For my wife it was none of the handguns. She likes my AR pistol.

 

[Kleanbore]

I did not compare the original COBRA to the new KING COBRA at all. If I did, please point out where.

No, you did not.

You spoke of your experience with the old Cobra in what had been a discussion of the new King Cobra.. Just clarifying, for those who might not have known know that the old Cobra had an aluminum frame.

Since Entropy brought up aluminum S&W J-frames, I thought my experience with an aluminum framed gun like the original COBRA, was quite relevant. I also talked about my experience with the S&W J-frames in both steel and aluminum.

Yes, good discussion. I agree with you comments RE: steel vs ligh alloy.

I cannot carry them in a pocket holster

Nor can I

The new KING COBRA, is a holster gun to me and offers the .357 magnum option, which is why I find the KING COBRA TARGET in interesting revolver.

Agree.

I can conceal the new Cobra more easily, using an OWB holster, and it is lighter than the target model..

I do not use ,357 loads for SD.

 

[Kleanbore]

Times change and so do we. My experience is what I base my opinions on and if a person cannot shoot a steel frame gun comfortably, then the odds against them shooting a lightweight version of the same gun as well, are much higher.

If you can shoot a full qualification drill with an aluminum framed gun, then that is fine. I would however, recommend that a new shooter, try both a steel and aluminum or scandium alloy revolver side by side and see which is easier to shoot and which gets a higher score. The reality, is that both are in most cases, just as concealable.

The above is vey good advice.

As Jim implies, steel framed handguns are easier for most people to shoot well.

There's more to consider than that. The cumulative effects of heavy recoil can include joint damage, tendon damage, and nerve damage, and some of that can be irreversible.

A dozen years ago, I bought an aluminum framed J-frame revolver. It was easy to carry, but it was not much fun to shoot, and it left my hand stinging after I had fired fifty rounds. I later learned that I could handle steel frame guns much better. I no longer have it

Around the same time, I observed men in fun stores trying to persuade their significant others to buy the ultralight scandium alloy revolvers chambered in .357 Magnum for personal defense..

Bad idea.

Most people who tried them rarely fired them a second time.

In the OP, old lady new shooter told her of her selection of a Colt King Cobra with a three inch barrel.

No, that's not really a great pocket gun. In another thread, she has told of researching ways of carrying her revolver while wearing a dress, and of her choice.

I carry in a waistband holster. I started out with IWB carry, but I have found OWB to be much more comfortable with my back issues.

None of us are saying what anyone else should carry or how--we are just sharing our experience.

Exception: I strongly advise against the use of .357 Magnum loads indoors, unless everyone in the house, including each of the animals, is wearing effective ear protection.

 

[old lady new shooter]

She likes my AR pistol.

An AR pistol is pretty much the ultimate "equalizer" for a woman. A size we can easily manage but very powerful.

 

[wiscoaster]

I second (or third) the advice for an M&P Shield 380 E-Z. I don't know if there's another handgun in its class that's easier to rack the slide. But just to throw in an alternate suggestion: a Beretta 3032 Tomcat. You don't NEED to rack the slide. You can load a magazine, then pop the barrel open (it rotates at the front to open at the back), chamber a round manually, close the barrel, and be ready to shoot. It shoots .32 ACP so has minimal recoil. I saw an elderly lady at the range shooting one. Then I had to get one of my own, ha ha.

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A couple things to keep in mind about revolvers: the double-action trigger pull on many can require a bit of hand strength, and the single-action trigger requirement to first have the hammer cocked can require a bit of hand flexibility. Be sure to try before buying.

 

[golden]

Kleanbore,

I am yes and no on recommending against a .357 for defense. I agree with the noise plus also the muzzle blast and flash are worse, but the rounds are also more effective, which is important with
a revolver and a limited supply of ammo in the gun. I say, try the 110 grain .357 magnum load if your gun can fire .357. If it is too much, then you know. If it is ok, then you have another choice for a more powerful and effective ammo selection.

When I started in law enforcement, my first issue gun was a .357. Admittedly, there would be a difference in size between myself and the originator.

When, I went through the academy, a quarter of my class was female and all but one qualified with our issue gun, a S&W model 13 with a 3 inch barrel. This is a very similar sized gun to the King Cobra. We used the 110 grain jhp .357 magnum load and all of the female and small statured men could qualify with this load.
We even had two petite (under 5 feet ) female officers who could not qualify at our post. The deputy chief ordered the firearms officer to fix the problem and he ordered two RUGER SP-101 revolvers which had smaller grips than our issued model 13's. So now they could qualify. It was not the officers or the magnum ammo, it was the wrong size gun!

While this load can be loud, it is also effective and the recoil is not harsh. It has the same ballistics as a 9m.m. +P or +P+ and very similar recoil. It is the load I keep in my .357 revolvers.

There are effective .38 Special loads, but they are limited. I use the FEDERAL HST 130 jhp in my .38 Specials. This is a load that is just about guaranteed to expand (a lot). Other premium loads like the GOLDEN SABRES, GOLD DOT and WINCHESTER'S PDX and TRAIN & DEFEND should do as well. The problem is that these rounds are not easy to find, even on the internet. You will also pay a lot for them.
The 110 grain .357 ammo is a non premium round, so you can buy them at reasonable prices.

I am not a fan of the 158 grain semi wadcutter lead hollow point +P load. In my own experience, the recoil is about the same as the 110 grain .357 round and the .357 is more effective.

Like I recommend with buying a gun, try different loads and see which works best for you.

Jim