Nickle Plated Colt Detective Special

[Thomas Traddles]

My Father, Requiescat in Pace, left me his nickel plated Colt Detective Special. I would appreciate some advice on two concerns:

1. The first is cosmetic. What does one use to polish the gun? There is some kind of substance (waxy perhaps) on the exterior of the gun that blotches the finish in some places. I've tested the blotches with my fingernail, but the stuff does not scratch off. I'll have to use an abrasive, I guess, but what kind?

2. The cylinder rotation is stiff. I've oiled it and worked it over the past few months, but there does not seem to be any improvement here. The cylinder will not rotate freely just by spinning it. I don't need a wrench to turn it, of course, and it cycles just fine. One can spin the cylinder in my other revolvers freely, and I figure the Colt ought to do the same. Perhaps not.

And finally, does anyone know what size the the cylinder throats generally measured on these guns?

Thanks.

 

[bannockburn]

Thomas Traddles

I have used Flitz Polish for years on my nickel plated Colt Combat Commander. Removes built up dirt and oil, keeps tarnish at bay, and leaves behind a protective coating. No harm to the plating and gives the gun a mirror-like shine.

 

[Thomas Traddles]

bannockburn, thanks for that recommendation. I appreciate it.

 

[Mizar]

Thomas, why don't you try first spraying it real well, both inside and out, with carburetor cleaner? After removing the grips of course.

 

[boom boom]

Carb cleaner is a bit harsh and could affect the nickel plating if some of it is bubbled or detached from the frame.

What you may have is old oil that has gummed up in the cylinder assembly. Oil plus age, plus natural dirt in the atmosphere can cause cylinder rotation to get difficult as the stuff gels inside the cylinder axis.

Get a mild solvent light oil such as CLP and try applying it to the ejector rod and bearing. Wipe it down after a couple of hours and repeat. Prop the gun with the cylinder open where the ejector rod is vertical (muzzle down so the crud released will go outside of the firearm). Otherwise you can remove the cylinder and clean the gummy stuff up it this does not work to free it. Outside of the scope to tell you how to do that unless necessary.

 

[Mizar]

In general, carburetor cleaner is a mix of xylene, acetone and methyl alcohol - none of which attacks either nickel, or copper in any way.

 

[Thomas Traddles]

Thanks for the replies, all. I appreciate your advice.

 

[dfariswheel]

The older Colt revolver model cylinders do not free wheel like S&W and Ruger.
The Colt's will feel stiff and won't rotate more then a couple of turns if spun.
This is due to the internal design of the cylinder and ejector assembly.
However, this has no effect on operation when fired.

Use a mild polish like Flitz and a soft cloth.
Rub GENTLY.
Rub too hard or use a polish too often and you can polish right through the nickel plating.
All metal polishes are abrasive and should be used rarely and only when you absolutely have too.

 

[Malamute]

Something else to keep in mind, using Hoppes No 9 or other bore solvents containing ammonia, they can compromise the plating if left too long on the gun. I used them to clean the nickel guns Ive had, just didn't let them soak for any amount of time.

I never polished the nickel, just cleaned it. It looks great when clean.

 

[bannockburn]

Thomas Traddles

The reason why Malamute posted info on not using something like Hoppes No.9 on nickel plating is that it is a copper solvent. Many guns that are nickel plated must first have a layer of copper plating applied to the base metal of the gun so the nickel plating has a surface layer to bond to. What happens is that the Hoppes can make it's way into the lower layer of copper plating and cause it to peel or flake away from the metal, taking the upper layer of nickel plating with it.

Also dfariswheel has good advice worth repeating in that you should only be using a small amount of Flitz and gently use it with a soft cloth on the nickel plating. You're just trying to clean and polish it, not doing it so hard that you could remove the plating from the gun.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Dfariswheel speaks from experience. Heed his advice.

For the cylinder, it probably needs cleaning to remove gummed up oil. It will have to be disassembled and you need special tools.

 

[dgod]

I was fortunate enough to acquire the same firearm. When I got mine it appeared to be Bronze.... But after the application of Flitz and about 3 hours, it turns out to be Nicotine. Cleaned up nicely, a small amount of #9 on the cylinder post, and it works like a million bucks. I feel fortunate at the acquisition for $200.