NoVA Lives!

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Good letter.

My guess is that CCI will make good on this one. Sounds like the problem is on their end- and even if its not the potential downside of not responding in a suitable manner is far more troublesome than the minor costs it would take to rectify the situation (ie: repair the gun if needed - which it doesn't sound like it does - or just give you some free ammo, which is always a good thing).

Let us know how they respond.
 
Potomac Mills

Hey all,

Gonna be taking the 'rents down to Potomac Mills tomorrow - mom wants to hit the Ikea grocery (Swedish food Mmmmmmm). Anyone know if there are good gun shops in the area/complex? I know the Dale City show is hosted right there, but I've never been to a gun shop there.

Thanks!
 
Quantico arms is in that area. www.quanticoarms.com

Our 12,000 sq ft Washington, DC shop is located in the Potomac Mills Area of Woodbridge, VA. We are conveniently located off the Prince William Parkway just 2 miles West of I-95. Come see the best equipped shop in the county.
 
Model 17 Inbound

Ok I have a S&W model 17-3 inbound from wild and wonderful WV.:p I should be picking it up on Sat morning and then heading out to the Chantilly show.:neener: I got the side plate off of the K-22 post war and it still had the original factory grease. Let me think, 1954 to 2005, hmmmmmmm that’s 51 years of quality. They won’t ever make them like that again.:(

Gun steel smelted from ore of the Minnesota iron belt and quenched with the sweat of US steel workers, “old world”:) “by gone era”:) “the last century”.:rolleyes:

TankerTom does Quantico Arms have any used or consignment arms? I am interested in S&W .22cal revolvers mostly.
 
The Saga Continues...

Ok... CCI says they will replace all of the ammo and throw some more in to make up for the cost of my shipping it back. They say that there are not any reports of this lot having issues but they'll replace it just to make sure (good customer relations I suppose). Because I didn't have the spent casing they weren't going to offer an opinion as to cause. They said to go ahead anc clean it and if there wasn't anything wrong with the cylinder we should be good to go.

So, I break out my bag of cleaning supplies. I spray a nylon brush with slip 2000 gun cleaner & degreaser. I thoroughly scrub the offending chamber and let it sit. I scrub some more. Give it a good wipe down/out and have a look. Hmm.... it is better but not gone. I'll try some Slip 2000 carbon cutter. ... Nope! no (or maybe very little) better.

I know, I'll do what I should have done in the first place...

Here's what it looks like...

clean.jpg


I don't mind putting more elbow grease on it, or should I be using a brass brush? Should I be using some other solvent? Any ideas would be most appreciated.
 
Try a 40cal bronze brush. It won't hurt it. You'll still need some elbow grease, but not as much.

BTW, what happened to the brass?

Chris
 
mtnbkr said:
Try a 40cal bronze brush. It won't hurt it. You'll still need some elbow grease, but not as much.

BTW, what happened to the brass?

Chris


First of all there never was any brass. It was Aluminium :D Secondly, I had no clue (being semiclueless when it comes to revolvers) that it could have been something of that magnitude. When I ejected the spent casings a) I didn't notice the marks on the cylinder, b) didn't notice anything on the spent casings (wasn't looking), therefore c) threw them on the floor. Once Dave had diagnosed the problem I didn't think to try to retrieve the spent casing from all the brass on the floor (I'll be wiser in the future).
 
Back from hunting smurfs...

My scythe got a real workout this weekend...

Smurfslayer comments on the above mentioned ammo failure.

I mentioned to His Tacticalness earlier that I suspected a case kaBOOM. If I were to guess - and that's all I can really do with everyone else here - I would say that H.T. suffered a case split & failure at the base and that the case material residue is what we're seeing in the chamber. Further range inspection with a surefire light revealed a light colored line that ran the length of the case in the chamber, which ran parallel with the chamber & barrel, looking as if the case "split" horizontally as well as the calamity at the "base".

IIRC, His Tacticalness indicated to me that he did not notice any "stickiness" in extracting the empties, so I'm not inclined to suspect an overpowered round, or overpressure - too much crimp, bullet setback, etc. I've seen the results of a revolver case split at the base before, resulting in a case "rim" which simply fell out with the remaining cases, but the actual length of the case still left in the chamber. As many of you know, or those who may visit my website to check for new goodies who have perused my 500 S&W page know, I've had cases split along the length of the cartridge... I think that the difference is that my split cases were way overpressure, whereas His Tacticalness are more indicative of a defective case at normal pressure, thus explaining the seemingly normal extraction.

Since you've got doc & pictures Your Tacticalness, I concur with the P.P. .40 bronze brush recommendation, and maybe a couple of pictures along the way. If this fails to dislodge the offending material ( I hope that's what it is, and not metal from the chamber that's been cut out ) then use a somewhat sharp piece of metal, like a paperclip to determine if you have excess, leftover case material, or, the chamber is bollixed. If the former, gently pick at it to see if you can break it loose - DON'T force it. If you have the latter, where the chamber is hosed - metal eaten or flame cut away, then that's a warranty issue, definitely. Is the rest of the chamber clear now?

If you're not comfortable going any further, don't! we can all take a look Friday to be sure. FWIW, I don't think I ever fired CCI's in any of my Taurii, but I have fired a couple of boxes through my 627/327 combo w/o incident. Only incident I've had w/ blazer is ( 1 IIRC ) a misfire, that went off on the 2nd strike.

The results of a similar failure in a semi-auto are usually not as pleasant. Particularly those which don't have fully supported chambers. Most of the mfgr's proof their guns with hideously over pressure rounds - Beretta uses 60 or 65k psi as I recall (saw cases of this ammo on the tour) - that's more pressure than a 500 generates. Of course, the gun only has to survive 1 shot or a few shots at that level...
 
Smoothbores at 20 paces!

That's what I say. And I have to say it because that's what the Precious TOLD me to say :uhoh:

Bring your smoothbores this Friday! If you don't have one, those of us who DO will make fun of your guns. :neener: ( the guns you did manage to bring with you ).

Tactical points if you have mounted lights, lasers, bayonets...ham radios...:uhoh: etc...

Negative tactical points for wood stocks/furniture.

Remember, slugs only, no buckshot.
 
Yeah,

I have a Browning BPS and Browning was pretty clear in the owners manual about not shooting slugs out of it unless I purchased a rifled barrel.

Of course, a quick check of their web page including the FAQ and the BPS owners manual doesn't seem to indicate this.

Perhaps I misread my owners manual. I am going to have to go back and check.
 
You shouldn't shoot slugs out of a **choked** barrel. IIRC, you may shoot slugs from either cyl or imp. cyl. and that's it - check your manuals.

And no, Kony, a clean rifled barrel = your guns get talked about :neener:

Hey... It's time for a new gun anyway! :D

I did my part last week. Time for somebody else to step up w/ a GOW
 
Well Regulated said:
Does the NRA allow black powder shooting? If not, I guess my Smooth bore brown bess is out.
Nope. It would take a helluva ventilation system to clear the smoke from BP.

Chris
 
Does the NRA allow black powder shooting? If not, I guess my Smooth bore brown bess is out.

Back when I had a Glock 23 I inherited from a family friend about a 1000 rounds of remanufactured 40 S&W ammo - non jacketed. I know Glock says not to use it, but I never had a problem. The folks shooting around me did though - as it put out about as much smoke as a blackpowder rifle
 
countertop said:
Back when I had a Glock 23 I inherited from a family friend about a 1000 rounds of remanufactured 40 S&W ammo - non jacketed. I know Glock says not to use it, but I never had a problem. The folks shooting around me did though - as it put out about as much smoke as a blackpowder rifle

They were probably just former Black Lung Arsenal shooters and your smoke sparked some flashbacks. :D
 
His Tacticalness takes the prize...

If you saw Mike's Aguila 38 loads, you saw a lot of smoke... an almost magical amount...

I actually stopped an entire line of shooters at Black lung when I first shot my Mac10 w/ suppressor. The suppressor had a light coat of oil, got hot *really* fast, and after 2 magazines, was billowing smoke :D

Was actually kind of funny...
 
Smurfslayer said:
... .40 bronze brush recommendation, and maybe a couple of pictures along the way. If this fails to dislodge the offending material ( I hope that's what it is, and not metal from the chamber that's been cut out ) then use a somewhat sharp piece of metal, like a paperclip to determine if you have excess, leftover case material, or, the chamber is bollixed. If the former, gently pick at it to see if you can break it loose - DON'T force it. If you have the latter, where the chamber is hosed - metal eaten or flame cut away, then that's a warranty issue, definitely. Is the rest of the chamber clear now?

If you're not comfortable going any further, don't! ...

Ok, I had a go at it (didn't have a .40 but I did have a 9mm since I've seen kits advertised for cleaning 9mm & .357 and a totally differant one for .40 I thought I'd be safe). The way it looks to me is that if this is extra material it is such a thin coat (that doesn't seem to budge) that I can't tell. However, since I did a bit of scrubbing I do see what appears to these old eyes a small pit. At this point I stopped. I'll bring it with Friday.

This is holding up shipping back the remainder of the ammo to CCI as I want a determination of the cylinder before I do so. If I have to send the gun to Taurus and they want the ammo too for testing (I don't know they would but I could see where they might want to test), I want to be able to do so. Do you think that is necessary?

... Oh, I forgot... yes, the rest of the chamber is clear. You can see all there is in the photo above.
 
Definitely keep the ammo until we're certain if the chamber is damaged / or we just aren't sure and you send it to Taurus anyway. When the jacket shaved off of the Grizzly ammo in the 500, I had to get it off the forcing cone with a very sharp knife...

We'll have a look Friday...
 
Smurfslayer said:
Definitely keep the ammo until we're certain if the chamber is damaged / or we just aren't sure and you send it to Taurus anyway.

Good time to test Taurus' customer service which I've read so much about. Speaking of which, I just noticed a pit in the side of my Millenium Pro's feed ramp that I've never noticed before. If it was always there then it should be no biggie as it hasn't failed yet but we shall see.
 
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