Nu Finish - vs - Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish

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Looks like lots of folks here like to add a little of the Nu Finish car wax to there tumbler media.

I have found that any liquid car wax works ok ... but I am thinking something like Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish might work better. Mothers really shines brass fantastic by itself and I am thinking that it does not contain ammonia (or very little).

Any opinions?
 
I've used both and both work great. I find the mother turns everything black tho and I'm not really a fan of that.
 
I used Mother's in the last load of .30-06 I tumbled. I used about a teaspoon with each batch.

The Greek HXP from CMP turned out very good.

The commercial stuff I did came out looking virtually brand new.
 
NuFinish works great, and enough of us have posted in forums like this about just how great it works, so why re-invent the wheel? It's not a wax, btw.
 
NuFinish works great, and enough of us have posted in forums like this about just how great it works, so why re-invent the wheel? It's not a wax, btw.

Most any liquid auto polish works just fine, very few car polishes today are waxes. They all add a coating that retards tarnish.
 
turtle wax finish restorer and walnut for range pickups. then size, deprime, and into the stainless tumbler to remove lube. considering rain-x after loading to prevent tarnishing. thoughts?
 
I find the mother turns everything black tho and I'm not really a fan of that.
The black is the brass particles that are polished off. The Mother's probably has more polish in it; i.e. you're using too much of it.

If you add enough polish to your tumbler, and you leave it on long enough, it'll turn black. Even if you load it with brand new cases.

Nu finish has a lot of polish in it. Put some on a cloth and spin a case in it. Compared to most liquid car waxes, it'll polish a lot faster. And turn the cloth black, faster. That's to be expected, since Nu Finish is car polish. Car wax is expected to have less polishing compound than car polish, and some few car waxes even have no polish. Most car waxes have some polish, because it's almost impossible to apply car wax to a clean, unoxidized surface unless you polish it at least a little while you apply the wax. If you polished it first, then waxed it after, the freshly polished surface would have already tarnished a little. To get the most bling, you need to seal the surface as you polish it. Pure car waxes are meant to be "maintenance" waxes to restore the protective wax finish before it is gone. It's for those guys that wax their car every month.

turtle wax finish restorer
"Finish restorer" implies it has more polish than their car waxes. It might be on par with Nu Finish.

I have found that any liquid car wax works ok
One of the big reasons NF is so popular is because of the polymer coating. It doesn't leave the cases near as slippery as when I used Turtle wax. Nu Finish is largely undetectable on the cases. You can also use more of it before gumming up the media to where it leaves blobs of black residue on cases. YMMV.
 
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Does using wax have any effect on the bullet "bonding" to the case/crimp or the sized-and-not-crimped technique which is the one I use for 9mm?
 
Mother's contains lye / caustic soda....so I avoid it.
NuFinish contains ceramic and I avoid that too.
 
NuFinish contains ceramic and I avoid that too.
Hmmmmm. Nufinish won't mar clear coat paint using power applicators.
MANY, Many reloaders use Nu-Finish to polish cases. I reload and re-polish 9mm cases many times each with no damage to the brass appearance. I have 20K processed and stored PLUS the 1K-1.3K a month I've shot for years, using mostly Nu-Finish with no problems.

I have also used what I had on hand, Meguiars Gold car polish (clear-coat safe) with similar results, but maybe not quite as "slippery" as Nu-Finish. I like slippery cartridges for my pistols. :)

Flt Simulation
, I repaired and taught instrument flying on flight simulators for many years in the military. If Mil. Where in FLA are you--St Pete?--the panhandle?
 
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Originally Posted by 1SOW
"I repaired and taught instrument flying on flight simulators for many years in the military. If Mil. Where in FLA are you--St Pete?--the panhandle"?
___________________________________

Myself, I was a civilian instructor pilot for the DoD. At one point in time, I had a non-flying job while working in Korea ... During this time, I was the Facility Chief for the Army Flight Simulation Branch.

We ran the Apache AH-64 and CH-47 SFTS (flight simulators).

Retired now ... Living in Cape Coral, FL

.
 
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I retired from the AF out of Ft Walton Beach and moved back to TX.
I got a job in TX operating AF/Navy/Marine/Nato Navigator training simulators until it moved to P-Cola.
I've been fully retired for several years.

Nu-Finish is available at any Wal-Mart and works very well. Don't overuse it/put too much in the tumbler. It doesn't require a lot to get good results.

Helicopters weren't made to fly. MH53J & 60's with several versions of both
 
In the past, I added jeweler's rouge to my media, but since I don't have any handy, I thought I'd experiment based on what I read here. I have some new corncob media in my Midway vibrating tumbler. It has cleaned the brass well, but there is not a polished finish on the brass. I looked thru my supplies and found some liquid Turtle wax. I just added a little to some 44 mag cases I was tumbling. I'll check the results tonight to see if that mixture works.
 
I used NuFinish the first couple of times with some new corn cob media. I have cleaned perhaps ten batches over an 18 month year period since then with no new finish. I clean my bullets for two hours using an el-cheapo timer at the wall socket. My cases come out looking like factory new. That said, my ammo shoots fairly cleanly with out much blast crud.

If you have problems getting a shine, is it because of baked-on case lube residue? I lube my cases with One Shot. I have a quart sized zip lock freezer bag (thicker material) that I spray a good shot into when it is empty. Then I throw in a large handful of cases and work them with my hands. This transfers the lube to the cases without getting any inside the case. I am neurotic about avoiding set back.
 
I have been using Nu-Finish for 23 years with no ill effects to ammo or firearms. Mother's makes a good product, Nu-Finish is just cheaper and takes less to get the same effect IME.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
IF by "polish," anybody posting here is alleging that NuFinish and similar car polishes are abrasive, then you are publishing fallacious information. What does have a lot of abrasive in it is polishing compound, which isn't in the same universe with NuFinish.
 
IF by "polish," anybody posting here is alleging that NuFinish and similar car polishes are abrasive, then you are publishing fallacious information.
So by accurately describing Nu Finish ("once-a-year car polish" right on the bottle) as polish, and alleging that polish actually polishes things, one would be publishing fallacious information? :)

Polishes are abrasives that are super small, is all. Meant to remove very tiny amount of hard materials/metals at a time. So I suppose you can make a distinction between abrasives in general and polish, but polish is a subset of abrasives; therefore, polish is abrasive.

There are very few polishes that are soft enough to specifically not affect something like steel or a gun finish. Jeweler's rouge, for instance, is just soft enough that it will polish many metals, but it won't work on steel. But it's freaking iron oxide, which is red/staining as all heck. No one is going to polish their car with that and spend hours to get it back off.
 
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