Oiling of stocks

Discussion in 'General Gun Discussions' started by orpington, Jun 6, 2019.

  1. Tikka Shooter

    Tikka Shooter Member

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    If you're using drying oils, be sure to lay the rag flat and allow it to dry. These can self ignite if left balled up.
     
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  2. Salmoneye

    Salmoneye Member

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    Bingo.

    If you wait a sufficient time between coats, BLO can not penetrate any deeper once it seals the wood...

    That's the entire point of a polymerizing oil (ie. BLO, Tung, Walnut, etc.)...
     
  3. FlSwampRat

    FlSwampRat Member

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    Gunny, does that cosmo soaked stock forever weep cosmoline or does it dry inside the wood?
     
  4. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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    It will not cure like BLO. It will weep depending on how much is in the wood and how hot it gets.
    If you take a good look at the pics of the stock in this post, you will see little bumps on the surface. That is cosmoline weeping from the stock. The stock was not soaked with cosmoline and it didn't take much to clean it up.
    https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/romanian-contract-vz24-cleanup.851166/

    I cleaned up a Turkish Mauser stock a few years back that was soaked with cosmoline. After two months of cleaning it twice a week, it was still weeping cosmoline.

    Here is one problem when it comes to old military stocks that have been stored in cosmoline. If you don't get enough of the cosmoline out of the stock, the BLO you apply will take longer to cure and will not cure if the stock is cosmoline soaked.
     
  5. boom boom
    • Contributing Member

    boom boom Contributing Member

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    I had an old WWI era 1917 that was soaked with cosmolene. I had to use whiting and acetone with repeated applications along with applied heat to finally get it out. Turns out it was a blonde walnut Winchester stock and came out pretty good for a century old stock.
     
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  6. FlSwampRat

    FlSwampRat Member

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    Gunny, had to laugh at work today. After our discussion about cosmoline yesterday, we got in this rifle as an ffl transfer.

    IMG_9283.JPG IMG_9284.JPG IMG_9285.JPG
     
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  7. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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  8. whisler

    whisler Member

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    When I was a chemist for a fine art material company back in the '70s, we made a product that was used in oil paintings, called "sun thickened oil". It was low acid linseed oil pored into shallow pans, covered with glass and exposed to the sun for months until it reached the proper thickness (viscosity). we made both Light (thin) and Heavy (thick) Sun thickened oil.
    Sun exposure both polymerized and bleached the oil slowly. If one could still find such a product, in the Light variety, I believe it would make an excellent gun finish.
     
  9. whisler

    whisler Member

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    As an additional note, the more notorious heavy metal driers, such as Lead Naphthenate, were outlawed for use in over-the counter products many years ago.
     
  10. FlSwampRat

    FlSwampRat Member

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    Bingo!

    Yes, but I don't envy him that chore.
     
  11. GunnyUSMC

    GunnyUSMC Member

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    Removing the cosmoline from the metal parts is easy. They just need to be hung with wire and pour boiling water on them. Spray with a good cleaner and pour more boiling water. The water will heat the metal and cause it to dry. The apply good gun oil and wipe down.
    The stock can be cleaned the same way I cleaned the Vz24 stock.
     
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  12. EO1

    EO1 Member

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