One can to rule them all, one can to silence them

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USAF_Vet

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I'm looking to either build or buy a suppressor in 2016, probably post 41F, but my CLEO signs off, so that's not a hurdle.

Anyway, I want something that will work equally well, or at least well enough, for use with 5.56x45, 9x19, and I'm thinking about getting a .300 blackout.

Does tube length/ diameter matter, or is it more in the physics of baffle shape? I want to test one of the Maglight suppressors, using a 4 cell sleeve and using a variety of baffles, both the aluminum ones that come in the kits, as well as the steel ones formed from freeze plugs. I've heard the aluminum one's tend to suffer significant damage from factory 5.56 loads, and I'm hoping the steel baffles will act as a buffer to extend the life of the aluminum baffles.

Can I expect adequate noise reduction using one suppressor for all three calibers?

Eventually, I'll be hand loading 5.56 so I can more finely tune them to subsonic, same as 9mm. The .300 will be factory ammo at first, until I get a good supply of brass, then I'll begin loading my own.
 
I like to break centerfire silencers into two categories.

Pistol Cans. : .45 ACP below low pressure rounds. They can screw together, use aluminum in their construction at least somewhere and can be cleanable although tis not really necessary. Regular use of high pressure rifle cartridges like .223 will blow them apart.

Rifle cans. : Usually 30 can and below. A good 30 cal can will work just peachy and usually better than a .223 can just because of the volume. They are made of steel, stellite, titanium etc and are invariable welded and are built to last a lifetime. If it screws together it will self destruct sometime You won't get a 9mm round through one nor would you want to as if it was able to run 9mm it would be too sloppy to really work well as a real silencer and it wouldnt work with a nielsen device.

Having said that I do have a Tirant 45 that I use on 45 ACP, 9 Mmm and 300 BO. I wouldnt even think of running .223 or any other high presure round through it.
 
^^^^^ What he said. You aren't going to find a 9mm can you can shoot 223 through. There are very good 9mm cans you can shoot subsonic blackout through, such as the Silencerco Octane.

Sounds like you need to buy a separate 9mm and a 30 centerfire can. Or buy a good 9mm (because of the piston) and Form 1 a 30 can using SD Tactical stuff or you own homegrown materials. It still costs you the extra stamp, but sometimes a compromise is just too much of a compromise.
 
From the time I read the title until I finished everybody else's comments, it sounds like what you want is a jack of all trades, master of none setup, and I immediately thought of a solvent trap setup which uses oil filters. Of course you have to get your paperwork to use it as a suppressor, but it's the only thing I know of which will be marginally effective on all options. I have no experience with one of those, and don't particularly care to, but I can't see them being incredibly accurate. Maybe after a few shots have cleaned up the hole in the end, but still not expecting greatness from thin stamped steel and paper.
 
https://silencerco.com/hybrid/
The Hybrid™ is the the silencer for any platform. Compatible with calibers ranging from 5.56mm to 9mm, .45–70 GOV to .458 SOCOM, and many in between, the Hybrid is both full auto and magnum-rated and can be used on pistols, rifles, and submachine guns. Boasting low-120 dB’s on 300BLK and remaining hearing-safe with .45–70, the Hybrid offers an unparalleled pairing of versatility and performance – a combination you’ve come to expect from SilencerCo products.

The Hybrid is rated down to 16˝ barrels for .45–70 and .458 SOCOM and down to 18˝ barrels for all magnum calibers up to .338. With a slew of compatible accessories available, you can turn the Hybrid into the perfect silencer for any demand.
 
If you want one can that does all of it, look at a Liberty Mystic X. It's a 9mm can that's rated for a bunch of rounds including slow fire .223 from a 16" barrel (if memory serves). .300 Blk is no problem.

Does tube length/ diameter matter, or is it more in the physics of baffle shape? I want to test one of the Maglight suppressors, using a 4 cell sleeve and using a variety of baffles, both the aluminum ones that come in the kits, as well as the steel ones formed from freeze plugs. I've heard the aluminum one's tend to suffer significant damage from factory 5.56 loads, and I'm hoping the steel baffles will act as a buffer to extend the life of the aluminum baffles.

First, I probably wouldn't do a form 1 suppressor as your first NFA weapon unless you're really familiar with construction of cans. As a first can, I highly doubt you'd be happy with a maglite/freeze plug suppressor, especially on a rifle caliber (and I'd have reservations about putting a maglite suppressor on a .223 for more than just very occasional use, but that's just me).

Internal volume of the can always matters, but as you move up in volume, it matters less for dB rating and more for tone.

Note that after you finish building your suppressor, you can NOT have any extra baffles or make any more parts for the suppressor. So there's no way you can test different baffle setups unless you have approved form 1s for all of the different cans you want to try.

On the ammo side, .223 subs reportedly tend to have issues cycling the action. For 9mm, 147gr factory loadings are almost always subsonic unless they're some +P loading.

For what it's worth, I think you'll be much happier if you a) buy factory suppressors and b) buy separate suppressors for rifle and pistol.
 
I want to test one of the Maglight suppressors, using a 4 cell sleeve and using a variety of baffles, both the aluminum ones that come in the kits, as well as the steel ones formed from freeze plugs.

No testing allowed for a private individual or trust Form 1 silencer. If you build it, that's what you're stuck with.
 
The hybrid looks like a really good idea, but I've heard that it is quite loud. I'd lean towards the Liberty Mystic x, or Cosmic (the 45 version) both of which will do what you want.
 
No testing allowed for a private individual or trust Form 1 silencer. If you build it, that's what you're stuck with.
Whoops, totally skipped over that part about testing different configurations. Form 1 cans are "one and done" meaning once you build it you can't swap out baffles. Only a SOT FFL can modify (or even repair) a Form 1 can.

People will occasionally respond to this caution by asking "how would they ever know?" I don't know the answer to that question, but I have no desire to ever find out.

It can make you a little paranoid. My very first stamp was a form 1 for a 22 silencer and I planned and researched for over a year after the stamp came before I started to build it.
 
I didn't mean to imply that I planned on swapping out and interchanging baffles for the best performance. I know that, once stamped and built, I'm stuck with what I've got, and if it doesn't work, I'm SOL and $200. I've done enough research to have a basic understanding of the laws. It's the physics I'm less clear on.

So since I currently don't have a .300 BO upper, or a viable host for a 9mm, I plan to focus on .223/ 5.56 only for suppression for the time being. I think I was trying to do too much at once with one can, and was over complicating the idea.

My Mag Light tube, sans adapter and end cap, is a pinch over 12" long with a 1.35" ID. That's a decent amount of volume to collect gas. But is it enough. I'm not trying to make it Hollywood quiet, but quiet enough for foam plugs only. I typically double up on HP when shooting the AR's, especially the 10.5".

I'm using a mixture of aluminum baffles, with some steel baffles closer to the muzzle and blast chamber, since I hear factory 5.56 does a number on aluminum. That may not be the case, but I feel better with something a little stronger up front to take the brunt of the hot gasses. I plan on coating these forward baffles with a high temp (1500 F) coating used for engine parts to help protect them. Probably all the baffles will get this treatment, as well as the tube, just in case.

Keep in mind that aside from the maglight, I don't yet have any parts. This is all theoretical.

At the end of the day, I want to end up with something like
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT7rPX8FvlF2WmaZICKBnntLeLuX7CPiDhIvxvT5BO61h2cW-ZG.jpg

But with eight aluminum baffles and two or three steel ones.

Most of the Mag light suppressor kits I've seen use a two cell maglight tube, which is about 7" long. The four cell offers much more room for additional baffles and a larger blast chamber.
 
Out of curiosity, why do you want to build it as opposed to buy one made by a manufacturer? (and "I just want to" is a perfectly acceptable answer)

.223 kinda sucks for suppressing. Because of the amount of powder in the case you essentially sandblast the baffles with unburnt powder every time you fire, ESPECIALLY on a SBR. I'm not sure anymore how much barrel you need to fully burn the powder, but I think it's something like 17-18" or so.

The best factory suppressors only get .223 down to about 140dB (maybe high 130s) on 16" rifles which isn't really hearing safe (SBRs are usually louder). It's more of a "take the edge off". It's ok for not doubling up on ear pro though.

Aluminum baffles in a rifle can just seem like a bad idea to me. I'm not an expert in suppressor construction, but aluminum baffles really only show up in pistol cans. I think the heat/pressure isn't too friendly to aluminum.
 
^^^ Reasons to form 1 a can rather than buy commercial: 1. Usually 1/3 the cost. 2. For many applications no appreciable performance penalty. 3. Trusts can currently efile form 1 applications 4. If you make it yourself you don't have to wait until the dealer gets the can you want.
 
^^^^^
That was my reasoning. I bought aluminum tubes with caps that have the thread pitch of your choice and k-like baffles that aren't drilled, all for around $100 $150 ... Then $200 for the stamp ... Just make sure you don't do any drilling until you get your stamp and your golden!
 
If the tube is aluminum, then it may not last well if used for full power rifle calibers.

There is TON's of info in the Silencer Smithing Forum of SilencerTalk.com. If you're interested in making a can, the "Completed Builds" thread is a great place for information.

Aluminum is used more for rifle cans over in Europe, but they don't have the $200 stamp OR the 5-6 month wait if the can fails. Here in the US, rifle silencer tubes and baffles are normally stainless or titanium and they are generally built to last.
 
He's asking about building one if I am reading right, not buying a $1000 can.

Any one have photos of the internals of the Silencerco hybrid or the other suggestions?


I don't own any .223/.308 cans that have any parts made from aluminum.
 
Wouldn't a can designed for 357mag be about perfect? High pressure rated, overbore cartridge rated, and wide enough diameter to accomodate all NATO ammo but BMG, but still in the smaller bore end of things (i.e. not 45) for better suppression of sub cal rounds.

TCB
 
Wouldn't a can designed for 357mag be about perfect? High pressure rated, overbore cartridge rated, and wide enough diameter to accomodate all NATO ammo but BMG, but still in the smaller bore end of things (i.e. not 45) for better suppression of sub cal rounds.

TCB
Are there many cans designed for 357 mag? Most handgun silencers are designed specifically for autos since revolvers have a cylinder gap that makes them hard to silence. I don't recall seeing many commercial pistol cans that say they are safe for 357.

I'm thinking about doing a 35 caliber Form 1 can so I can use it with 35 Remington and 358 Win subsonic. It would also be usable with 357 but I don't have a 357 rifle anymore.
 
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