P365/X/XL/SAS Grip Module Modifications

[Alllen Bundy]

Continuing from: My Journey From Sig P365 to P365X and Modifications Beyond
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...nd-modifications-beyond.891955/#post-11996270

P365/X/XL/SAS Grip Module Modifications:

While overall I liked the P365, I didn't like the way the 12 rd magazine shifted around in my hand and the magazine sometimes pinched my hand. So I installed the taller X/XL grip module on my P365. This was unofficially being referred to as the P365X. It only took a couple of minutes to replace P365 grip module. It felt more secure in my hands and the X/XL 12 rd magazine didn't pinch my hand like the P365 12 rd magazine did. FYI, there were so many people installing the X/XL grip module on their P365s that Sig eventually began to sell the P365 with the XL grip module with the flat trigger of the XL and the slide was also milled like the XL to accept a red dot sight. It is now officially called the P365X.

While I thought that installing the taller XL grip module on my P365 was a big improvement and well worth the time, effort, and money, I noticed that the lower rear edge of the XL handgrip dug into my hand and was a little uncomfortable.

So I wet sanded a nice radius onto the edge. I started with 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper and worked down to 600 grit and then hand buffed the sanded areas with a piece of old denim jeans. You can sand with finer grit sandpaper if you want more of a glossy finish.

Sanding blocks are big and bulky. You can make more convenient sanding devices, such as using double sticky tape or glue to hold a sandpaper strip to a tongue depressor, popsicle stick, or whatever works for you. I generally don't recommend power sanding tools. One slip and you could mess up your grip module. It takes a bit longer, but it's more difficult to mess up sanding and buffing by hand.

P365 with unmodified XL Grip Module & unmodified 12 rd Magazine


P365 with Radiused XL grip module and Radiused 12 rd Floorplate


Left: Stock Lower Rear Grip ------------- Right: Raduised Lower Rear Grip


There was a wedge shaped ridge running around the outside of the flare of the magazine well, which also bumped out the rear, that I didn't like. So I also sanded that away. I thinned the outside of the flare as much as I felt comfortable doing.

Left: Stock 12 rd Magazine Floorplate ------ Right: Radiused 12 rd Magazine Floorplate


Rear of the Radiused Grip Module


While I was at it, I sanded the injection mold seams on the trigger guard to make it smoother against my finger.



I also didn't like the 90° front lip of the Sig magazine floor plate, so I sanded a nice radius into the bottom of the floorplate as well.

Now the handgrip fits my hand like a glove. It's like the difference between clothing off of the rack and clothing that is tailor fit for your body. It still looks stock and most people wouldn't notice any difference unless they knew what to look for.


Another advantage of the X/XL handgrip is that the 12 rd XL magazine can lay on it's back. It allows me to fit more magazines into my lockboxes.



You can see that the the 12rd P365 magazine floorplate on the left side is oval shaped
and just flops onto it's side. The the 12rd XL magazine floorplate (On Right side of photo) is flat on the backside and it allows the magazine to stand on it's back,

Continued on next post.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

I noticed that the web between my thumb and forefinger could hang up on the corners on the beavertail (Which the P365 does NOT have). Some people cut the beavertail entirely off of the XL grip module. But I prefer the extra support of the beavertail. So instead of cutting off the beavertail, I sanded a nice radius around the beavertail and my hand now glides over the beavertail during a draw.



Radiused Beavertail on Left side, Stock Beavertail on Right side.



Radiused Beavertail on Left side, Stock Beavertail on Right side.



While these grip module and magazine floorplate modifications may not help me shoot any better per se, they do eliminate distractions and that could help me not screw up. This is what works for my hands.

A bit of forewarning: Some of the modifications that I am presenting anyone can easily perform themselves if they have the patience. The little bit of sanding that I have done to the grip module will not affect it's structural integrity. However, I do recommend removing the FCU to keep it from being contaminated by the sanding process. I also recommend either removing the magazine release or masking it off with blue painter's tape.

Removing the receiver pin that holds the FCU in place is easy if you push it through from the right side to the left side of the FCU frame. You only need to push the pin about a 1/4" to the left before it slips out of the retaining clip, and you can easily pull the pin out from the left side. All of the parts in the FCU SHOULD stay together when you remove the FCU from the grip module. I can shake my FCU violently and no parts fall off.

HOWEVER, some people have reported parts falling off of the FCU when they removed it from the grip module. This should NOT happen, as every part in the FCU is either held in place by another part or is supposed to have spring loading on the part to keep it from falling off. Parts falling off of the FCU may be the result of the sear spring not being installed correctly, and/or an out of spec and/or defective sear spring, and/or perhaps even an out of spec FCU frame.

So anytime you remove the FCU, proceed with caution. Have a cloth on your bench top to catch parts and prevent parts from bouncing or rolling off, etc. After you have finished sanding, CLEAN everything well before reassembly. It's also a good time to clean and lube the FCU.

Also note that the FCU will slide forward and backwards about 0.010" in the grip module. If you pay close attention you can feel the movement during the trigger pull. This appears to be built into the design, as the receiver pin holes in the FCU frame are OVAL, NOT round. Most people don't even notice the play or care about it.

There will be modifications that I will be presenting that should be reserved for those with advanced mechanical aptitude and skills. It's your decision whether or not you are up to the task, assuming that you would even want to do any modifications or finish work that was not done at the factory.

I recommend that you watch these videos below before attempting any work on the P365/X/XL/SAS.

Best way to remove a Sig P320 or P365 magazine release button


How to remove new and old style P365 striker assembly


SIG Sauer P365 COMPLETE disassembly. Part 1 of 2


SIG Sauer P365 complete reassembly. Part 2 of 2


Next: Extending the magazine release button.

 

[Arubalover]

Great write up, good read.

 

[alfsauve]

I like the paper clip method of removing the mag release wedge.

Wait! Wait! I just looked it up in the Sig manual. (page 71) A paper clip is the recommended method. I'd be afraid of gouging the wedge if I used an knife blade.

 

[Alllen Bundy]

Wait! Wait! I just looked it up in the Sig manual. (page 71) A paper clip is the recommended method. I'd be afraid of gouging the wedge if I used an knife blade.

I tried the blade method and I couldn't believe how easy it was. The author claimed that the paper clip method could cause damage to the grip module.

I don't know how sharp the blade needs to be. It may be possible that you could dull the blade edge before using it. But I never had a problem using a sharp blade.