Pedersoli flintlock pistol kit update #2

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Don't beat yerself up 'bout the carving Mike. That is something that takes time, practice, patience and very sharp tools.
It is also something that is personal to your guns.
 
As a long time wood working hobbyist and somewhat frequent carver I've got a couple of hints for general stuff and carving in particular for the next time;

  • For small details like your lock plate beavertails it's better to define the edges of the raised portions of fine stuff like this with end chisel and gouge direct push/plunge markings instead of using a running V groove. You still want to form a "V" but it's more accurate if you mark the "V" with a series of vertical cuts into the surface. The keep things accurate the incised lines for the detail should be vertical and the relief cuts from the ground side at a shallow angle. The smaller the detail the more the cuts should be shallow to avoid pressure chipping the raised detail piece away from the stock. Done carefully it's much easier to ensure a sharp and faithful shaping of the detail than the running groove left by the V gouge.
  • After the initial incising of the edges work away some of the "ground" around the raised portion to give you some room to work the chisels and gouges to begin shaping the raised detail. Don't try to remove ALL the ground area at once. Just form a broader scooped out area to let you work on the central detail first.
  • As the center detail, the beavertail in this case, begins forming at the same time begin expanding the ground around it. This defines the shape around the area neatly. Or in the case of a stock like this you may want to form the area around the detail first and then chisel away the grounding as you exand it around the detail to blend with the surrounding shaping. With wildly rounded over shapes like a pistol stock that is the way I would go.

That trick for using duct tape on the back of sandpaper isn't one I've seen before. It's quite brilliant. But I've got a better way for you to cut your sandpaper instead of ruining the edge on your shop shears.

Get an 18tpi hacksaw blade and countersink the end holes to accept small #4 countersunk screws. A slow speed and lots of pressure does the trick neatly. Screw the blade onto a bench edge or edge of a cabinet or some other place that is out of the way but handy so that the teeth are right at the edge or slightly overhanging the edge. Then to cut your sandpaper place it back side to the edge of the blade with the teeth set into the crease. Then simply pull the free end down to tear the paper neatly.

My own sandpaper cutter is mounted to the side face of a handy storage shelf unit. I've marked the area with two lines that are my guide for halving and quartering the sandpaper sheets. To aid the duct tape trick a line set to the width of the duct tape would be added.

I've been using the same hacksaw blade for this duty for going on 20 years now and it still works great because I'm not pulling the grit over the teeth.
 
Mike,

I am ashamed that in all my coat hanger, bailing wire, hay twine, and duct tape use over the decades it never occurred to me to back my sand paper with duct tape........wish you had thought of this and shared it with me six years ago when I first tried to refinish a BP rifle stock......

Next time though!

Duct tape, now the material with 1000 and TWO uses!

Looking good and I hope just what your editor wants.

-kBob
 
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