Phoenix HP22a last round hold open mod

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Moptop

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Has anyone here ordered and installed the magazine follower kit for the Phoenix HP22a .22 that will lock open the slide after the last round has been fired? I'm very curious to know how and if it works.

Thanks
 
No, Sounds interesting tho is this something you get from phoenix arms or is it aftermarket? Great little guns but need a few improvements like removing the mag disconnect so you can have a drop free mag and modding the safety so you can drop the mag with the safety on fire. Last round hold open would also be nice!
 
you can get around the mag disconnect without cutting. The mag need not be "fully" inserted to work the safety ;)

Do you have a link for the follower kit?
 
Sounds kinda neat but honestly I haven't shot my HP22 since it returned from the factory. I love the size, function, and capacity of the HP22 but judging from my own experience and the experiences of other guys over at the SNS forums, you can't expect more than 3k rounds through them before having a frame crack right next to the safety. Phoenix will tell you all day that it is from firing high velocity ammo through them but I only used Remington standard velocity exclusively and still experienced the problem.

On the upside, Phoenix sent me a brand new pistol with an extra magazine when I sent it in. They were always very kind and willing to help, their operator is a very nice woman and when I talked to the owner he was a very respectful guy too. Nothing bad to say about Phoenix, the gun was reliable and very affordable and if you do have problems the staff will take care of you.
 
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I've owned 2 of the HP22a model. Neat little guns! The "frame" crack at the 2000-3000 round mark is not the frame but the top of the magwell. It does not affect the function or safety of the gun. Of course, if it bothers you then Phoenix Arms will send a new one if you are nice to them.
 
I've owned 2 of the HP22a model. Neat little guns! The "frame" crack at the 2000-3000 round mark is not the frame but the top of the magwell. It does not affect the function or safety of the gun. Of course, if it bothers you then Phoenix Arms will send a new one if you are nice to them.
Yes but the magazine well is a part of the frame. Maybe not a part that makes the gun dangerous (I shot mine even after it cracked) but it can have an effect on reliability.

After the crack begins at the top of the mag well it can also run down the entire side of the grip as the magazine well is "soda can" thin. I love my HP22 and Phoenix took care of me but if you plan on shooting it make sure to buy one new that way you won't have to gamble on if they'll cover it under warranty or not.

I'd also change the springs every 1500 rounds or so and maybe that'll prevent this and prolong the pistol's life. I never changed mine, this time I'll try it and see if it makes a difference.

Some have said that they cover used guns but I'd wager that this isn't always the case as almost all companies that do warranty work on used guns do so on a case by case basis.
 
Geckgo, that is the link where I got the info I have on it. I wish I could find a better picture of one, I'm pretty handy with a dremel tool myself. I guess I could mock up a couple and see how they work and when I find that magic "one" cast up a couple in aluminum. Shouldn't be too hard.

On the frame cracks... there is a picture on one of the fourms where a guy modified the frame by cutting off the area around the saftey on both sides that is prone to crack. I would think this would greatly affect frame strenght.
 
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How handy are you with fiberglass??,, I was just looking at my HP22a and emptied the mag, slid it in, and checked where the "stripper" part of the slide passes over the Magwell. Seems you could just use the stock follower, tape on a couple pieces of toothpic (coffee straws, whatever) and make a mold from that. cast one in resin, then add some bondo and smooth it up, use for a second cast to make the followers out of whatever you like. Looks like you only need to add about 1/16" - 1/8" stickup to the follower to lock up the slide, or just shave down the back of it a bit and permanently attach a little backing piece that would stick up to stop it. The possibilities are endless.
 
My friends hammer flew out of his. Is this a quick fix or should he send it in?


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Resin, I never thought of that! Good idea...and a lot less heat to deal with, Thanks!

joepav, It might be best for your friend to send the pistol back. It could be more than just a broken or missing hammer pin. At least you'll know it will be fixed correctly or replaced. There's nothing more annoying than a pistol that will not work right.
 
Moptop: I can't see the picture but I'll bet you grabbed one that was posted from the Bryco forums, they are the only ones I've ever seen dremel out the cracked area like that. They say it doesn't effect performance but I never tried it because of the warranty. If I got a used one that had this problem I'd probably do this.
 
I replace my mainspring about every 500 rounds out of necessity. That's as long as it lasts before the slide stops reliably going into battery and misfires occur. But, hey, it's cheap and they send me free springs when I call. it's also wildly accurate which is the only reason I mess with it. Great plinker and outdoor kit gun. Got bigger, better guns for defense.

My slide was holding back on every shot BUT the last one the other day at the range. I let the slide get a little dry, brought it home and put some gun grease on it, should solve that problem.
 
Recoil springs in mine last 500-800 rounds, max. Then it starts to not load the round or it stovepipes. I always have a few in my range bag. They are cheap and easy to replace. Otherwise it is a great, little plinker. I like how they look as well. Very accurate for a short barrel, too!
 
MCgunner, What did you do to help the trigger pull? Mine is not real bad but any improvement is welcomed.

If you will pull the hammer and look at the sear engagement surface, there is a big hump there that engages the trigger part of the sear. I just honed it with a stone until it was reduced, but I did NOT remove it. Safe enough, probably, removed, but would make the sear have a little creep the way it's designed. I left a small bit of it and now it's crisp and pretty light and much improved over the way it came. I didn't mess with any springs.
 
I'm sure there's a lot that could be done to improve the trigger on these guns. Removing the negative camming from the sear/hammer Engagement and A lighter main spring would probably make a big difference. There are also a lot of parts on this gun that are rough cut and just need cleaned up.
 
My friends hammer flew out of his. Is this a quick fix or should he send it in?
The hammer pivots around a roll pin. Roll pins end up slightly curved. I've owned and detail stripped two examples of this gun, and in one the hammer roll pin was so badly curved, the hammer was very stiff. This could be a main contributing factor leading to broken hammers. If the roll pin fits properly, the hammer cocking force is very light and smooth.

Spare parts are very cheap and replacing the hammer is pretty trivial. You could order a new hammer and a couple of new roll pins and choose the straightest one. The entire gun comes apart rather easy, if you have (or can improvise) a decent set of punches. The only part that requires a specific tool is the slide cover that holds in the firing pin. For that you'll need the proper allen wrench.
 
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