Picatinny for OLDER Savage Rifle

[D.B. Cooper]

I'm pretty much at an impasse and need a way out. I have an older, pre-accutrigger, Savage Model 110 with the flat back, long action. I can't find a modern, in production, i.e. I can just go buy it new, scope that has a long enough tube to allow me to adjust it for the right eye relief. The rings would have to overhang the ejection port to do it.

I have resisted the picatinny rail for as long as I can, but I just can't find a way around it, other than buying an entirely new gun. But I also can't find a picatinny rail that's purposely designed for my rifle. It needs to be thicker under the rear, because the rear of the action is lower than the front.

Any Ideas?

 

[Hookeye]

Saw a Savage getting scoped at a shop, front and rear rings angled such that each hung over bolt area.
Function might be great but yeah, the look was pretty funky.
EGW doesn't have a rail that fits?

Edit: just checked...........they have flat back receiver bases....

http://www.egwguns.com/savage-rifle

 

[Varminterror]

Nightforce & EGW both make rails for flatback Savages.

 

[LoonWulf]

DNZ also makes a one piece mount for the old 110s.

 

[cdb1]

I resisted picatinny rails for a long time too but finally gave in. Though I abhor his taste in wine and ties I’d take Varminterror’s suggestion.

 

[D.B. Cooper]

Saw a Savage getting scoped at a shop, front and rear rings angled such that each hung over bolt area.
Function might be great but yeah, the look was pretty funky.
EGW doesn't have a rail that fits?

Edit: just checked...........they have flat back receiver bases....

http://www.egwguns.com/savage-rifle

Holy crap that was easy. How did I miss those guys? That will probably do it.

Next question:

I wonder if I could use a Dremel tool to remove half of the metal (along the long axis) to open up access to the ejection port. I could go the whole length of the action, but it's 243 in a long action gun; I don't need access to the front part of the ejection port.

 

[cdb1]

I would only contemplate that if the base was causing an issue with shell ejection. Otherwise I’d leave it alone.

 

[Txhillbilly]

Ken Farrell also makes rails for the old flat back receivers. Pricey, but well worth it!

 

[D.B. Cooper]

I would only contemplate that if the base was causing an issue with shell ejection. Otherwise I’d leave it alone.

Good point, but I was actually thinking about making it easier to load/unload.

 

[cdb1]

Good point, but I was actually thinking about making it easier to load/unload.

I still wouldn’t, just me.

 

[Hookeye]

Holy crap that was easy. How did I miss those guys? That will probably do it.

Next question:

I wonder if I could use a Dremel tool to remove half of the metal (along the long axis) to open up access to the ejection port. I could go the whole length of the action, but it's 243 in a long action gun; I don't need access to the front part of the ejection port.

Sure you can.
Take a while w a Dremel, but it works. Aluminum gets hot quick too
Birchwood Casey aluma black, not the greatest but can yield decent results.......and its readily available.

I've modified bases (clearance like you are asking about, added slots, cut off overhands, beveled edges for clearance)......no big deal.

Dremel, files........padded vise on a good bench, good lighting. Take your time and it should look store bought.

I'd mount my chosen scope, get everything like it needs to be, then see what I could take off. It would suck to hog on a 60 dollar base and find out later you took away a spot where you need to put a ring.

 

[Hookeye]

My #1 mill bastard file has cut many a new ring slot, and cleaned up a bunch of crappy ones (Aimtech clamshell bases were kinda iffy on QC back in the day). Fixed em up like they shoulda been.

Also beveled back end on the 1100/870 shotgun mounts as that seemed to be where some scopes liked to have the power ring. Yup, could set the scope back a wee bit.............slug gunning.......forward is better.

I did open up a Weaver base for Rem 600, like you are asking. Weaver base not the best looking LOL but it did look better with the clearance. Purely aesthetic mod. Function was fine.......still a 1 pc base w enough in the "span" to be solid. Not like when you screw the base down you're gonna lose alignment. IIRC I took it halfway across.

 

[cdb1]

This thread just caused me to think of a new word.

Dremelina: A chick who like to cut down people and things.

 

[LoonWulf]

Dremelina: A chick who like to cut down people and things.

That's good! The sound is even right.

I've cut up a number of bases and rails for projects and as @Hookeye says, it's not hard, just figgure out where you NEED to remove metal, do your layout and use your weapon of choice slowly and carefully.

I actually cut new cross slots with my chop saw and a fine tooth blade. Otherwise it's mostly hand work.

 

[GooseGestapo]

Weaver makes a long front base #402. I’ve used that on several Savages.
It still takes an “Average” length tube.
Weaver also makes a long mount (not picatinny) with multiple slots.
Weaver #48320. MidwayUSA #532016 $17.99

I have one on my Savage M220.
You may need medium or high rings if your scope is real short. I used a Bushnell Banner 2-7x 32mm. Needed Weaver quad-medium aluminum rings. Couldn’t be more pleased.
Got this one and two more this year with it in slug only area.