Picatinny rail questions

[TTv2]

Never bought or looked at prices for picatinny rail sections before, but have AR's to put sections of rail on now. Wondering about prices and polymer vs aluminum.

I figure Aluminum is the way to go as weight isn't that much different vs polymer, but IDK. What do you guys think about poly vs AL rails?

On prices, I see Midway has 5 slot Aluminum rails for $10 on sale right now. Good price?

Looking to attach light/laser combo on a 9mm build, maybe light only for a rifle build.

 

[Walkalong]

I would assume the better aluminum rails are better than the better polymer rails. Have no proof. Prefer metal over polymer for some things either way. Aluminum rails are proven. I just recently made that choice, in fact, bought an aluminum one, even though it came with a polymer one (Same maker) for free.

To attach a light, I would assume polymer would be fine.

 

[imashooter]

I have plenty of both and they're fine. Either way, I'd purchase name brand ones. 10.00 is good.

 

[chicharrones]

Be wary of cheapo eBay type rails, no matter what they are made of. I purchased an no-name aluminum "picatinny" rail blank a couple years ago and it was undersized ever so slightly so that certain scope mounts wouldn't go small enough to tighten onto the rail at all.

 

[LoonWulf]

Be wary of cheapo eBay type rails, no matter what they are made of. I purchased an no-name aluminum "picatinny" rail blank a couple years ago and it was undersized ever so slightly so that certain scope mounts wouldn't go small enough to tighten onto the rail at all.

Seconded. I use them, but only for non critical applications. Ive got a few that i mount bipods to, or lights etc.
Never an optic.

 

[TTv2]

I don't buy anything on Ebay and I would have to believe Magpul and AR Stoner rails are better than some fly by night manufacturer. I guess I'm gonna try both poly and Aluminum and see which I prefer.

Also, not mounting optics on these, I have flatop AR's. These would strictly be mounted on the sides or under the barrel on the M-Lok rail.

 

[Varminterror]

For a polymer mlok rail, in my experience, if I run into anything hard enough to damage the rail, 1) I have also significantly damaged whatever I had attached to the rai, and would have broken an aluminum rail in its stead too, 2) it involved 200lbs of me moving at high speed, and then suddenly NOT moving at high speed any longer, with the rifle having been the brunt of the impact, and 3) following such change in velocity, my interest in continuing shooting while my 200lb self has such high velocity is significantly reduced.

 

[greyling22]

I'm pretty much sold on utg pro for a value standpoint. But I've not had issues with ncstar rails either. I'd have qualms about using an eBay pic rail section as long as it wasnt for an expensive optic. But for a hand stop or flashlight, sure.

 

[FL-NC]

For lights and grips and the like, plastic is fine. For aiming devices like lasers, I recommend aluminum.

 

[Skylerbone]

I’ve chosen aluminum to now and plan to continue just for the false sense of security it brings me. I know it’s like having a warranty on a doorstop but I’ve convinced myself sans evidence that it’s better.

In truth what sold me above all else is my penchant for cleaning and my concern that polymer might eventually succumb to harsh chemicals.

 

[BigBL87]

When I mounted two on my Magpul MOE handguard (1 for a light and 1 for a bipod) I used polymer and had no issues. Way I figured, it's a polymer handguard so might as well us polymer rails.

When I ended up with an aluminum free float handguard, I went with aluminum rails and I've been happy with them. I kinda just matched material to the material it was being mated with.