Please critique my .38 special crimps

[1KPerDay]

First time loading .38s, first roll crimps... these look okay?

BTW with this type of WC, with the crimp groove, it appears there's quite a bit of room left in the case for more Trailboss. I don't plan on exceeding max recommended loads of 2.3 gr, but I wonder if those loads were worked up using the type of HBWC that you insert fully in the case. Just thinking.

Thanks for any input

 

[gunlaw]

looks OK to me. The crimp might be a little heavy for a light target load but I don't think it will really effect the performance of the load.

 

[MMCSRET]

I don't roll crimp wadcutters, I taper crimp just enough to remove all the flare from the case mouth. Makes for more uniform close (target) range performance. Seems to enhance accuracy.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree that looks a little to tight for a target load but it should still shoot fine. Your brass will last much longer without excessive crimp. (although the brass on low pressure rounds like the 38 last a LONG time)

 

[Husker_Fan]

Ditto. I'd back off the crimp a bit to avoid case mouth issues, but those will work.

 

[Walkalong]

The crimps look good. They may shoot great crimped like that, or may prefer a lighter crimp. It certainly isn't necessary with a light load, but is just fine if they shoot well. You can experiment a little with the crimp to see. To keep from re-adjusting the crimp die, you can use spacers to get a lighter crimp. I do that with several calibers. I adjust for a heavy crimp, and use spacers for medium and light crimps.

The taper and roll crimp dies are set for heavy crimps. I use the spacers to get a lesser crimp. That way when I go back and forth, I know I am getting the exact same crimp. I use that Redding seater for both .38 Spl and .357 Mag, but I have separate crimp dies for both.

 

[Sunray]

Hi. WC's don't need a crimp. A crimp is detrimental to accuracy too. Lose the crimp and seat 'em flush.

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks guys.

I'll try a few this way, try a few with no crimp but seated similarly, and try a few seated flush and see what my guns like.

 

[FROGO207]

Yep if your propellant is burning completely and the bullets are not moving around there is no advantage to a heavy or even any roll crimp IMHO. I do not do it to any of the 38 SPL loads I target shoot with but do have to with my +P loads. I have realllly long case life with my 38's and not so with the 357's due to both the high pressure and the heavy roll crimps needed there.

 

[Overkilll0084]

A bit heavier than necessary, but they look unifom. I tend to go with the "less is more" for crimping my revolver loads. The only ones I crimp very much are my heavy .357 loads.

 

[918v]

WC's don't need a crimp. A crimp is detrimental to accuracy too. Lose the crimp and seat 'em flush.

The bullets he is using are designed to be seated and crimped the way he seated and crimped them.

 

[mdi]

Ask 5 reloaders how they crimp their 38 Special wadcutters and two will say "No crimp necessary, bad for accuracy", two will say "light crimp for uniform powder burn, increases accuracy", and one will say "Whaa?"

 

[Hanshi]

Crimps look fine to me, as well.

 

[Hondo 60]

For me, I think they're crimped a bit heavy.
I'd back that off just a tad. (but too much)
They'll shoot fine, but I'd bet you don't get a lot of reloads before the neck will split from being worked too hard.
Especially if you heavily flare before charging.

 

[918v]

Crimp is an accuracy variable.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

For me, I think they're crimped a bit heavy.
I'd back that off just a tad. (but too much)
They'll shoot fine, but I'd bet you don't get a lot of reloads before the neck will split from being worked too hard.
Especially if you heavily flare before charging

I agree with Hondo 60. But it is all preference, to be determined by testing to see what does best for you. Even with a mild flare I can't get .38 cal lead to stay in place in a .38 wadcutter.

 

[esheato]

A bit heavy for my taste, but it depends if it delivers the performance you want in your guns.