Please tell me about the Remington 552 Speedmaster
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ISO1600
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fully stripped mine today, cleaned the bolt and chamber, then took it out back to try some CCI CB Shorts (in a neighborhood). It successfully fired and ejected 6 out of 7 loaded. Seems much better.
FENIX
Member
Remington’s Amazing Model 552 Speedmaster
By Dan Shideler
GUNS ILLUSTRATED, 43rd edition, pages 114-115
By Dan Shideler
GUNS ILLUSTRATED, 43rd edition, pages 114-115
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The Remington 552 was the first firearm that I bought. I still have it and it is one of my favorites. It really is not a problem to take down to clean. I have had very few problems with mine over the years. It will jam when it gets very dirty, but a good cleaning will fix it right up. I have not had any issues with the scope changing zero fater taking it down. All in all, I love it. Jim
Remington 552
The secret to success with this firearm:
1. Use LRN ammo rather than HP.
2. NEVER load it with Remington ammo.
Winchester, Super-X, CCI, Aguila, Federal - all these work very well. Remington 22LR is the worst stuff on the market.
The secret to success with this firearm:
1. Use LRN ammo rather than HP.
2. NEVER load it with Remington ammo.
Winchester, Super-X, CCI, Aguila, Federal - all these work very well. Remington 22LR is the worst stuff on the market.
DM~
Member
My 552 gets nothing but Rem. Vipers, and year after year, it just keeps on keeping on!
DM
DM
ISO1600
Member
mine fires acceptably well with Remington ammo, but CCI of pretty much any variety is a dream in it.
FENIX
Member
Some interesting advices that I have read about Remington 552 Speedmaster:
For all of you who have had problems with misfire and ejection on Remington 552…
First, if a gun shop tells you that there is no hope for this beautiful rifle go find a real gunsmith fast. You can still order all of the parts for this rifle, enough to do a complete rebuild. Now keep in mind that these guns will probably fire more rounds than even a military rifle. This will cause some anticipated wear on certain parts. First stage of fixing will be to file and adjust the wear parts…the next stage will be to replace. Here are the parts to keep an eye on.
1. The hammer (part # 40) gets flared at the head. This is due to not having a last-shot-bolt-hold and results in a dry fire every 15 rounds. Fix this with a file to take the flare out.
2. The side of the bolt (part # 5) has two slide tracks that can build up some small nicks. Again a fine file will smooth these out.
3. Check the carrier (part # 10, that pops up the next round) if the edges are ragged, smooth them out with the fine file.
4. There is a steal removable rail (ejector) in the receiver part of the barrel (part # 20). Again with your file make sure that the rail is smooth where the bolt travels and the ramp that hits the spent shell is not rounded. This could be a cheap fix by just replacing with a new one.
5. As stated in an earlier post, check the firing pin (part # 27) for wear and straightness. It will move back and forth freely when working correctly.
6. Check the notches in the sear (part # 67) to hammer (part # 40) contact for wear. Best fix is to replace both.
7. Keep an eye on the extractor (part # 23) for wear or sticking… keep it clean. They don’t tend to wear so much on these rifles, but can be a cheap fix by replacing with a new one (don’t forget a new spring -parts # 25 and 26- as well).
8. If you have an older gun and your barrel is in good shape ordering replacements for all of these wear parts will put you back into a nice working 552.
(Benchsighted advice published on May 18, 2010 at http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/rem...ster-jams.html)
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Also check part #69, Sear Spring, to be sure it is strong enough to reset the sear after the bolt cycles.
Does the hammer reset when you manually cycle the bolt S-L-O-W-L-Y ?
Does the hammer NOT reset when you manually cycle the bolt as fast as you can?
If the answers to these two questions are both true, it may indicate a problem with the sear "reset" spring.
(OldWolf advice published on December 13, 2010 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3215002&postcount=6)
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Pay particular attention part #20 described above and clean it exceptionally well when you clean your gun. In particular, pick out the carbon that builds up in the notch.
You'll need a very fine pick (I ground down a small screwdriver for a pick.)
After 100 rounds or so, you Will see carbon in this notch, and on the rails, and it WILL cause problems with cycling. Using DriLube sparingly helps ease the pain. Here you can see carbon on the rails after just 30 rounds:
(paxfish advice published on 4th February, 2011 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3306630&postcount=3)
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To fix in a proper manner the barrel to the receiver improving accuracy in our Remington 552 Speedmaster, we have to buy and install a simple receiver bushing (in Remington Parts cost $3.20, it is a part number #F16160 or V-50 in the part list numbers).
(Shooting Coach advice published on January 10th, 2009 at http://www.trapshooters.com/cfpages/...41&Messages=10)
For all of you who have had problems with misfire and ejection on Remington 552…
First, if a gun shop tells you that there is no hope for this beautiful rifle go find a real gunsmith fast. You can still order all of the parts for this rifle, enough to do a complete rebuild. Now keep in mind that these guns will probably fire more rounds than even a military rifle. This will cause some anticipated wear on certain parts. First stage of fixing will be to file and adjust the wear parts…the next stage will be to replace. Here are the parts to keep an eye on.
1. The hammer (part # 40) gets flared at the head. This is due to not having a last-shot-bolt-hold and results in a dry fire every 15 rounds. Fix this with a file to take the flare out.
2. The side of the bolt (part # 5) has two slide tracks that can build up some small nicks. Again a fine file will smooth these out.
3. Check the carrier (part # 10, that pops up the next round) if the edges are ragged, smooth them out with the fine file.
4. There is a steal removable rail (ejector) in the receiver part of the barrel (part # 20). Again with your file make sure that the rail is smooth where the bolt travels and the ramp that hits the spent shell is not rounded. This could be a cheap fix by just replacing with a new one.
5. As stated in an earlier post, check the firing pin (part # 27) for wear and straightness. It will move back and forth freely when working correctly.
6. Check the notches in the sear (part # 67) to hammer (part # 40) contact for wear. Best fix is to replace both.
7. Keep an eye on the extractor (part # 23) for wear or sticking… keep it clean. They don’t tend to wear so much on these rifles, but can be a cheap fix by replacing with a new one (don’t forget a new spring -parts # 25 and 26- as well).
8. If you have an older gun and your barrel is in good shape ordering replacements for all of these wear parts will put you back into a nice working 552.
(Benchsighted advice published on May 18, 2010 at http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/rem...ster-jams.html)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also check part #69, Sear Spring, to be sure it is strong enough to reset the sear after the bolt cycles.
Does the hammer reset when you manually cycle the bolt S-L-O-W-L-Y ?
Does the hammer NOT reset when you manually cycle the bolt as fast as you can?
If the answers to these two questions are both true, it may indicate a problem with the sear "reset" spring.
(OldWolf advice published on December 13, 2010 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3215002&postcount=6)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pay particular attention part #20 described above and clean it exceptionally well when you clean your gun. In particular, pick out the carbon that builds up in the notch.
You'll need a very fine pick (I ground down a small screwdriver for a pick.)
After 100 rounds or so, you Will see carbon in this notch, and on the rails, and it WILL cause problems with cycling. Using DriLube sparingly helps ease the pain. Here you can see carbon on the rails after just 30 rounds:
(paxfish advice published on 4th February, 2011 at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3306630&postcount=3)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To fix in a proper manner the barrel to the receiver improving accuracy in our Remington 552 Speedmaster, we have to buy and install a simple receiver bushing (in Remington Parts cost $3.20, it is a part number #F16160 or V-50 in the part list numbers).
(Shooting Coach advice published on January 10th, 2009 at http://www.trapshooters.com/cfpages/...41&Messages=10)
Last edited:
FENIX
Member
Can anyone exceed this Remington 552 perfomance?
RonJ from Eastern Missouri perfomance with his factory stock BDL Remington 552 Speedmaster, Weaver 3-9 AO scoped, benchrested from 25 yards.
RonJ from Eastern Missouri perfomance with his factory stock BDL Remington 552 Speedmaster, Weaver 3-9 AO scoped, benchrested from 25 yards.
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