Quantcast
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Polishing 1911 Slide Flats

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by XLMiguel, Mar 21, 2003.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. XLMiguel

    XLMiguel Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,551
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    A few weeks ago I asked for some info on polishing slide flats on my Kimber Stainless compact. Here's the before-
     
  2. XLMiguel

    XLMiguel Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,551
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    And here's the 'after' -
    I spent about 2 hrs with 400 grit, then 600, (Lapping on wet/dry paper stapled to a piece 0f 3/4" plywood). I wiped the slide down after each change in abrasives.

    There's still some micro-pits to be dealt with, but overall, I'm thinking of stopping at 600, just becasue it looks good, and it's probably easy to touch up.

    This gun is primarily a bedroom queen, it lives in a GunVault by the bed. I put some Buff n'Rub (gold leaf paste) in the logo 'cause it looks pretty nice (quite stunnig on a polished blue gun).

    All in all, I'd say spend your time with the 400 ( it will take 3-4 sheets), get things really smooth there, and it will polish up pretty quickly with the finer grits.

    Overall, I'm quite pleased with the look. YMMV
     
  3. Standing Wolf

    Standing Wolf Member in memoriam

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2002
    Messages:
    24,041
    Location:
    Idahohoho, the jolliest state
    Mighty pretty!
     
  4. coonan357

    coonan357 Member

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2002
    Messages:
    744
    Location:
    in th peoples republic of Blagovich (sic)
    IMO Looking good , BTw how does that rub on gold stuff hold up? I was thinking on doing that to a para .
     
  5. XLMiguel

    XLMiguel Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,551
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Coonan-
    The Rub n'Buff holds up well in the small engravings, but will need to be renewed in the larger areas, such as the 'Kimber' logo. It's waxy paste, and once dry, it's fine for general handling. Cleaning solvents will remove it easily, so I usually have to renew it after each cleaning.
     
  6. Sven

    Sven Senior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2002
    Messages:
    3,808
    Location:
    Los Gatos, CA
    I like it... good work. Keep us posted on maintainability, etc.
     
  7. One thing to add. When using the wet n dry paper, use kerosene on the paper and slide. It produces a finer finish, floats away the metal removed and makes the paper last longer. Just be sure to clean the slide between differant grits of paper. For the final sanding, I take 600 grit paper and rub two pieces togather to break down the grit and finish the slide with lots of kerosene. You can also go to 1200 grit if you have it.
    Good Shooting, John K
     
  8. XLMiguel

    XLMiguel Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    2,551
    Location:
    Santa Fe, NM
    Thanks for the tips, John. I quit at 600 grit because that's all the local hardware stores had. It gets you to a pretty nice finish, though I'd like to finish off with 800 (I'm a little 'mobilty-challenged' until the cast comes off my foot 4/1 :) ). I did use a little gun oil on the final rub-out and it did add a nice luster. I'm sure that 1200 would give you a truly mirror-like fininsh. It is important to clean the slide between grits so you don't contaminate the finer stuff with something coarser and undo your work. I'll try the kerosine with the 800, thx.:cool:
    M2
     
  9. bountyhunter

    bountyhunter member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2003
    Messages:
    3,421
    Location:
    Fascist-Fornia
    Mirror Finish

    To get the real mirror finsish you have to follow the sanding with hand polish using polishing compounds of progressively finer grades (get them at pep Boys). The "clearcoat safe" stuff is the finest. As the final buff, I used the soft wheel on my dremel and the fine polish. Don't let the wheel get the metal hot when you do it. You can get the side flats so shiny you could shave with them. Looks great, but you will spend more time wiping off fingerprints than shooting.
     
  10. Riss

    Riss Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2002
    Messages:
    981
    Location:
    SE Quad, Penns Woods
    ppolish and hand lapping

    Best I have used is good automotive wet/dry sandpaper. Doesnt scratch like the stuff meant for wood. Use god gun oil and from 600 to 2000 grit. So fine it will take the polishing swirls out of a mirror. Can get good SS to polish up like a mirror and feel like it is oily, even after it degreased.
     
  11. Sam

    Sam Member

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2003
    Messages:
    1,384
    Location:
    Alamogordo, New Mexico
    For a really fine flat surface try using a chunk of plate glass instead of the plywood. The paper will stick to it easily after it has been wetted.

    Sam
     
  12. Pointman

    Pointman Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2002
    Messages:
    283
    Location:
    Indiana
    I've used a large arkansas oil stone for polishing slides sides with good results
     
  13. Hand_Rifle_Guy

    Hand_Rifle_Guy Member

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2002
    Messages:
    616
    Location:
    Palo Alto, People's Republic of Kaliforny
    Additional useful info for your further edification.

    This one.

    And this one.

    We had this conversation, you see. Hope you find this handy.
     
  14. spearsleeann

    spearsleeann Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2007
    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Ohio
    polishing slides

    I started with 400 grit and ended with 1500grit then used polishing paste on mys&w 4516. I'm not finished and its starting to shine like chrome.
    allso use a dremel polishing wheel but be careful not to hit it with the metal shank
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page