Pre-War Model 94......It's Finished!

Freudianfloyd

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Joined
May 15, 2021
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254
Location
Ohio
So I picked up this old rifle this past summer, and while it is had true wear on it, which normally wouldn't bother me, it also had some long obsolete scope mount screwed into the side of the receiver. I tried to find the missing scope mount pieces, but couldn't find any information on this particular one. Apparently they went out of business decades ago. So I removed what was there and tried living with the 4 threaded holes.

On a separate note, I have been learning the rust bluing process, and have set up a nice little work station in the basement to give me something to do this winter.

I figured now was the time to repair that model 94 for good.

Here is how it looked when I bought it.
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And here are the holes...
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After tearing the gun down, I started with plugging the holes and taking the screws down as close to flush as I could.
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Then made the mistake of attempting to fix the holes with my MIG welder as my TIG was not accessible. This led to some porosity that I wasn't expecting. I knew TIG was the proper way to go but figured MIG would be quicker, thus less heat in the metal. My mistake.
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So that all had to be fixed. I took the receiver to work, and fixed the welds with the TIG. Then polished them down. (Got a little too aggressive in a couple spots though and had a bit of a low spot form.
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Then using some red dykem, went to draw filing to make the surface as level as possible.
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After that, it was a complete sanding of the gun and all components.

I made a mistake and polished the receiver before bluing, and after 6 or 7 rounds of bluing, boiling, and carding, it turned bronze with very little color.

So I stripped it down again and stopped at 400 grit. I also tried a bluing trick I read about where the guy said to cold blue first and then do the rust blue. The thought was it gave the rust blue something to bite into.

So I went to bluing and did as many cycles as I could before I was out of the bluing agent. The small parts all looked great, but the barrel and mag tube still looked dull and grey to me. I had no choice however and had to neutralize the bluing agent and soak the parts in oil. Then I went to bed.

The next day when I got home from work, the first thing I did was go check on the parts. I was blown away, the oil darkened the bluing to black as night. All the parts looked better than original. I couldn't believe it.

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I was not planning on refinishing the wood, and decided to just give it a good cleaning. Well after the cleaning, the lacquer coating was noticeably flaking, so I figured I would give it a light wet sanding and then refinish with 4 coats of lacquer. I wasn't sure if I wanted semi gloss or satin, but went with semi gloss. I think it was closer to the original finish anyway.

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And then went to putting the gun back together, this time a nervous wreck because everything was so much prettier than it was when I took it apart.

And after all that, and about a weeks worth of work, I have the following to show off.
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And here it is in the rack with a few of my other lever guns, where it belongs.
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The pictures don't really do justice to how dark the bluing is. It's really hard to get a picture of it because it just looks like a black hole. But I'm ecstatic over the way this turned out.
 
You made the mistake of polishing before bluing? What are you supposed to do? 🤷‍♂️

Looks great. I have two old 94s I’m trying to get functional but the stocks are basically in pieces held together with the finish
Apparently going to a mirror finish is counterproductive to forming a first layer of bluing. It seemed that the bluing agent just wasn't penetrating. From what I read, any more polished than 320 grit is pointless as the bluing process will erode the surface anyway and has no bearing on how polished the bluing would end up being.
 
I've got an old 94 in 32 win as well. It's going to get rebarreled to 30 30. A friend has a take off barrel he is going to give me for this project. Haven't seen 32 special ammo in many years.
 
Excellent! Many thought the 32 WS was a better deer killer than the 30-30. Dad had one but we were a slug state. He wreaked havoc on foxes and groundhogs, though.
 
...On a separate note, I have been learning the rust bluing process, and have set up a nice little work station in the basement to give me something to do this winter.

Can you provide some more information on the bluing process you mentioned? Cold rust bluing? Materials, methods?

I looked at some recent posts of yours and didnt see anything about it.

Your project looks great, well done!

Thanks.

Oh, Sling mounts, I wanted one mounted in the fore end band, similar to older factory installs. Just tapping the band only gives about 1 1/2 threads of bite. Inletting a knurled nut into the wood below the band makes a pretty bomb proof install and looks good.
 
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Can you provide some more information on the bluing process you mentioned? Cold rust bluing? Materials, methods?

I looked at some recent posts of yours and didnt see anything about it.

Your project looks great, well done!

Thanks.

Oh, Sling mounts, I wanted one mounted in the fore end band, similar to older factory installs. Just tapping the band only gives about 1 1/2 threads of bite. Inletting a knurled nut into the wood below the band makes a pretty bomb proof install and looks good.
I used Mark Lee Express Blue. The process is fairly straight forward.
1. Deep clean and degrease all parts you want to blue
2. Remove all old bluing if possible
3. Clean everything again
4. Heat part to be blued up to around 200 degrees.
5. Coat parts in very light (almost unnoticeable) layer of bluing. Make long passes and do not overlap if possible. This isn't as critical on the first coat but will be later.
6. Let the parts sit until they form a film of rust over the surfaces
7. Recoat with bluing agent again and let gun sit until more film forms
8. Do this one more time.
9. Boil part in tank of distilled water. Times vary, and I wasn't too critical on how long I left it in the tank or how long I left the bluing agent on the gun before boiling. The more you do, the longer you will have to let it sit to get the desired color.
10. Boil until the film that was on the gun has turned black.
11. Using a degreased carding wheel (.003" stainless wire) turning at a very slow speed (500 RPM or so) and remove all the black film that you can. If the wheel will not fit, use 0000 steel wool.
12. Repeat steps 4 through 11 as many times as you need until you get the color you desire.
13. After you have your desired color, soak the parts in a good oil. I used G96 Gun Treatment. The key is to neutralize the bluing agent, otherwise the gun will continue to rust. You can also use a water and baking soda mixture and then oil if you desire.
***Note, the gun will darken quite a bit after soaking in oil.
 
Excellent work on your rifle.

I learned several years ago from a member on another forum about mist coating with lacquer using the cheapest airbrush Harbor Freight has. It is easiest way to apply a stock finish I have ever used. Pretty quick too, especially in summertime. No sanding between coats unless you aren't paying attention and get a run is really nice.
 
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