Primers are still out for somewhat reasonable prices..

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Analogkid

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Really should be Renamed ... Primers, powders and components are still out there for reasonable prices ... Last week I was surfing the net after working a 12 hour shift. I did a simple search on GunsAmerica auction site for small pistol primers while my car was warming up... The first auction that came up showed a auction for 5k cci small pistol primers priced at $50 per 1k but you had to buy all 5k...


Yes.....I know that's a lot more than the $32 per K I usually bought them at pre pandemic prices. But it's a heck of a lot less than the $250 + per 1k everyone else is selling them for right now.



I was super glad to get them at that price considering the current conditions. And I was sure glad the little Mom and pop store put them up at that price.. They shipped them fast as well in under 4 days for a fair price..

Keep scanning the auction sites and definitely keep scanning THR member "Walkalongs ... "Where are reloading components" post at the top of this page.. Our THR forum brothers and sister members are literally bending over backwards to post links to vendors that are bringing stuff in for fair prices. Add it to your bookmarks and set up notifications and watch it daily. And make sure to give them the credit for trying to help us all out. These guys and gals are doing us a service and it needs to be recognized. Thanks to all that have spent a minute or two and have posted in that thread


I have had several chances to buy powder and primers at normalish prices just by watching that thread and getting notifications from it when things are posted.. I have hoarded powder for years but there's been chances to get it for decent prices numerous times and it's all because a THR member took the time to pass it along.
 
I also almost always let the car warm up as it’s a bit chilly here in NY. My 2007 Ford F-150, manual says you don’t need to let the engine warm up as it’s good to go right away. Then my 2017 Chevy Traverse manual says to let it warm up as it could damage the transmission if it’s cold out and you drive right away. What’s the best practice? That’s almost like who makes the best gun oil thread.
 
Gun broker primer prices are all over the place. I've been looking there myself for a "deal". Yesterday I saw someone had bid $400 for 1k CCI ssp and some 500ct auctions for $200. I've yet to find a deal like you did but still looking. Even at inflated primer prices (within reason) it's still a heck of a lot cheaper to reload than buy factory ammo these days and I enjoy doing it. Plus I'm too old to be patient. I don't even buy green bananas anymore.
 
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Why should the Wisconsin be the only people in the deep freeze. We can share with the eastern seaboard. Our average temperature for the last three weeks was 7. On the subject of supplies, I think some people have figured that if they want to sell something, a high price is better than than an outrageous price. Glad you found something that you can put to good use.
 
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I also almost always let the car warm up as it’s a bit chilly here in NY. My 2007 Ford F-150, manual says you don’t need to let the engine warm up as it’s good to go right away. Then my 2017 Chevy Traverse manual says to let it warm up as it could damage the transmission if it’s cold out and you drive right away. What’s the best practice? That’s almost like who makes the best gun oil thread.
I typically let the engine run for about 20-30 seconds to circulate the fluids through everything. Then just drive easy for the few miles to warm up the transmission. You would need to leave it running a long, long time to warm up the transmission without driving it.
One exception to this is when the windshield is iced over. Start the car, scrape the windows, then wait until the windows defrost enough to drive. This is for safety, not for the benefit of the car itself.
 
$50 a thousand shipped is not terrible. I think I paid that for some back during the last shortage. They were Federal 210M primers that fetch a premium at any time. I was shooting in my match rifle at the time.
 
Keep scanning the auction sites and definitely keep scanning THR member "Walkalongs ... "Where are reloading components" post at the top of this page.. Our THR forum brothers and sister members are literally bending over backwards to post links to vendors that are bringing stuff in for fair prices. Add it to your bookmarks and set up notifications and watch it daily. And make sure to give them the credit for trying to help us all out. These guys and gals are doing us a service and it needs to be recognized. Thanks to all that have spent a minute or two and have posted in that thread.
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Glad you got what you needed. :)

Absolutely! the people updating that thread do need recognition. I've been avoiding buying anything online or in stores that's in short supply because I'm not in short supply... yet. Let the folks who are short have first dibs. Where I have picked up new items on auction sites or through the club - some NOS lead bullets, mostly, and some range brass - it has been of things that are either very specialized to my shooting (Lyman bullet 358432 148gr. .358" LWC) and not in high demand; or, things that are very common (25lb bags of mixed, unsorted range pick-up brass). NOT stuff in very in high demand like powders or primers - except by barter-n-trade. A lot of my excess or new pickups I've passed on to others who can't hand-load or "do online" for themselves. Not everybody is so kompooter litrit as myself. ;)
 
Be aware that there are bots running constantly from numerous sites that monitor all the major sources for reloading supplies. As a result, by the time anyone sees something available and posts it on THR the product is usually already gone.

Once the supplier has stock they are inundated with traffic bogging down their servers preventing folks from completing their transactions.

Some retailers are just shutting down their websites because they’ve become virtually useless for order fulfillment. Bruno’s has reverted to emailing notification to their customer base and filling orders on a first come, first serve basis.
 
I typically let the engine run for about 20-30 seconds to circulate the fluids through everything. Then just drive easy for the few miles to warm up the transmission. You would need to leave it running a long, long time to warm up the transmission without driving it.
One exception to this is when the windshield is iced over. Start the car, scrape the windows, then wait until the windows defrost enough to drive. This is for safety, not for the benefit of the car itself.
Off topic, but I didn't derail it- I must comment.

It's not oil circulation or the flow due to cold that's the true concern. It's the difference in component expansion due to temperature. The cylinder heads take heat faster because of exhaust flow and their mass being less than the engine block. The hotter parts expand more quickly while the cooler parts expand more slowly, this causes a scrub between the two surfaces which over time accelerates wears on gasketed surfaces - primarily head gaskets. It was more of an issue before multilayer metal head gaskets but is still a factor. Also exhaust manifold bolts/studs which will be seen broken off pretty frequently (especially on Ford and Chevy trucks). Some people don't care, I do because I'm the poor soul who has to fix them including my own. Be a good guy and let your car warm up a couple minutes.
 
Be aware that there are bots running constantly from numerous sites that monitor all the major sources for reloading supplies. As a result, by the time anyone sees something available and posts it on THR the product is usually already gone.

Once the supplier has stock they are inundated with traffic bogging down their servers preventing folks from completing their transactions.

Some retailers are just shutting down their websites because they’ve become virtually useless for order fulfillment. Bruno’s has reverted to emailing notification to their customer base and filling orders on a first come, first serve basis.
That's a shame. Sounds like speculators who have no use for the actual item attempting to profit from shortages, while creating a shortage from which to profit. Like any other kind of speculation, there's honest investors who intend to promote the object of their speculations and there's carnivorous vermin looking to harm others to line their own nests.
 
Off topic, but I didn't derail it- I must comment.

It's not oil circulation or the flow due to cold that's the true concern. It's the difference in component expansion due to temperature. The cylinder heads take heat faster because of exhaust flow and their mass being less than the engine block. The hotter parts expand more quickly while the cooler parts expand more slowly, this causes a scrub between the two surfaces which over time accelerates wears on gasketed surfaces - primarily head gaskets. It was more of an issue before multilayer metal head gaskets but is still a factor. Also exhaust manifold bolts/studs which will be seen broken off pretty frequently (especially on Ford and Chevy trucks). Some people don't care, I do because I'm the poor soul who has to fix them including my own. Be a good guy and let your car warm up a couple minutes.
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Here I was thinking it was so his fingers wouldn't freeze to the steering wheel.... o_O
 
$50 a thousand shipped is not terrible. I think I paid that for some back during the last shortage. They were Federal 210M primers that fetch a premium at any time. I was shooting in my match rifle at the time.
If it shipped hazmat (and I would insist upon it) then the fee was spread across 5000 primers making it worthwhile. I bought one brick from powder valley at the good ole days price but with hazmat fee and shipping and tax it came to $77. No bargain. I would never in the good ole days buy just one brick, but today you take what you can get.
 
Off topic, but I didn't derail it- I must comment.

It's not oil circulation or the flow due to cold that's the true concern. It's the difference in component expansion due to temperature. The cylinder heads take heat faster because of exhaust flow and their mass being less than the engine block. The hotter parts expand more quickly while the cooler parts expand more slowly, this causes a scrub between the two surfaces which over time accelerates wears on gasketed surfaces - primarily head gaskets. It was more of an issue before multilayer metal head gaskets but is still a factor. Also exhaust manifold bolts/studs which will be seen broken off pretty frequently (especially on Ford and Chevy trucks). Some people don't care, I do because I'm the poor soul who has to fix them including my own. Be a good guy and let your car warm up a couple minutes.
It depends as they say...my owners manual says to not let it idle to warm up but drive gently for a few miles. It also says use a heated garage in extreme climates.
 
My mother used to tell us to think outside the box and turn a poor situation to your favor. It has worked wonders over the years. A local guy that has a FFL told me a couple distributors are having handguns trickle in over the past week at normal prices and he purchased three for resale. Things might be turnimg around!:uhoh:
 
Persistence pays off along with patience. :)

I let my truck warm up with the heated seats turned on. Not for the engine or transmission but because as I get old I hate cold more and more. Heck, I'll let it run 20 min to melt the snow and ice off of it.

Anyway, yeah, persistence and patience.

Ron
 
I've been seeing mining stock prices climbing.
Yup. Raw and refined for manufacturing climbing, too. We can't talk about the "why" but the "what" is higher prices for everything made of copper - and that's a mighty, MIGHTY long list! When/If copper is put on the "strategic metals" or "critical minerals" list(s), anything not considered "essential to national and economic security" will be prohibited - possibly including jacketed bullets, primers and cases for non-LEO use. I'm not saying anything partisan or "political" here, just the realities of the current markets and regulatory climate.
 
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