wvcardsfan
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I have picked up a lot of .223 range brass lately. I set about depriming it only to find that it is VERY hard to deprime. I broke a pin doing them. Can anyone shed some light on this issue?
Primers in .223
- Thread starter wvcardsfan
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PWC
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Check the headstamp, is it military brass? If so the primer is crimped in. I used the Lee "whack-a-mole" primer remover. Haven't had to use it in years. It is inexpensive and warranted against breakage. They have replaced 2 for me in the past.
After deprime, you have to remove the crimp. Lots of ways, some inexpensive, some $$$. Least expensive is careful use of a pocket knife...(I've used this) and primer pocket uniformers are next step up $$wise. Comes in large and small primer size. My "technology" stopped there. You will hear all anout swagging shortly....
After deprime, you have to remove the crimp. Lots of ways, some inexpensive, some $$$. Least expensive is careful use of a pocket knife...(I've used this) and primer pocket uniformers are next step up $$wise. Comes in large and small primer size. My "technology" stopped there. You will hear all anout swagging shortly....
Highly recommend you use a Lee Universal depriming and decapping die. This will also remove crimped primers. If not the die slip upward to keep it from breaking.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...imers and accepts cases up to.550 in diameter.
This is how you can tell the difference between crimped and not crimped.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...imers and accepts cases up to.550 in diameter.
This is how you can tell the difference between crimped and not crimped.
Ifishsum
Member
Any particular brass brand you're having trouble with? I've deprimed thousands of .223/5.56 brass using standard RCBS dies, never broke a pin or had any particular difficulty with the process. I do cull out unknown and/or uncommon headstamps and those known to have issues - Wondering if you've maybe got some Berdan primed brass or seriously off-center flash holes? I can feel a little extra pop when doing crimped primers for the first time, but that's about it. Maybe make sure your depriming stem is as centered as possible in the die when viewed from below
edwardware
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The only time I've ever come anywhere close to breaking a pin decapping is when I missed a Berdan-primed case. Crimped primers decap about the same as uncrimped.
Edit: but that seems to happen often enough that I stock spare stems and pins for every 5.56, 7.62, and .30-06-based cartridge.
Edit: but that seems to happen often enough that I stock spare stems and pins for every 5.56, 7.62, and .30-06-based cartridge.
Last edited:
Chuck R.
Member
I've done this ^
It's rare but, there is Berdan primed surplus 5.56 "out there". Luckily for the few pieces I've come across I stopped before the stem broke or bent. I also agree that while decapping crimped primers takes more effort than non-crimped, I have yet to bend a pin doing it. I've also run across flash holes that were off-center. I use RCBS decapping dies, small and large, for the majority of my decapping and haven't had any issues other than the Berdan stuff.
Take a pen light and look for 2 holes in the base.
Charlie98
Member
That would be my guess... that was my introduction to broken decap pins, some Indian .308 brass.
OP, dumb question time: This isn't steel-cased, is it?
I've had Monarch brass break RCBS pins. The flash hole was about half a hole off and I had the decapper set too low.
rodregier
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I vote for the Dillon Super Swage 600 for the crimp normalization stage.
gifbohane
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I am not the best reloader of all time but for some reason I can "feel" the ocasional extra back pressure from the berdan primer and stop.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
3 causes come to mind,
Crimped primers
Flash holes of center.
I ran into top this on some GFL range pickups.
Flash holes were WAY off center.
Of course if it is Berdan primed that is not intended to be deprimed with a pin than could be it as well.
Crimped primers
Flash holes of center.
I ran into top this on some GFL range pickups.
Flash holes were WAY off center.
Of course if it is Berdan primed that is not intended to be deprimed with a pin than could be it as well.
Nature Boy
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Be aware too that NATO brass isn't the only cases that are crimped. I've seen a lot of commercial .223 with crimped pockets. I run everything I pick up at the range through my Dillon swagger
Jesse Heywood
Member
I have broken RCBS pins decapping 223 milsurp brass. Then I bought the Lee Universal and eventually broke a couple of pins. The primers were corroded and thus bonded to the cases. So I looked on evilbay and found some replacement pins that were advertised as stronger. They came in a package of 3 for a little over $10. I still have 2 spares, haven't broken one. But I did push through some primers.
Charlie98
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Charlie98
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When I first got my M1a, I was at Academy looking for ammos... and they had Monarch .308, and it was cheap!!! So, I bought 5 boxes before I realized it was steel-cased Russkie stuff. I was taking her out on the shakedown at an indoor range... and loaded up the Monarch. My Socom16 has a muzzle brake... and that Monarch blew about a 8-10" jet of flame up out of the brake! The first round of that, and I thought 'HOLY SHEEP! What just happened!?!?' Talk about ruining your vision...
entropy
Member
Doesn't even need to be military brass; I just finished working a bunch of range pickups, and some of the commercial is crimped also. Specifically some stamped "FC" and the date, (18 and 19) with the little dimples around the rim that recent LC brass has, but I've had other commercial stuff be crimped also. Now to the point of breaking pins, then you gotta check each case and learn which headstamps are Berdan primed.
Good to know lee warranties the Whack-a-mole primer removing rods. I have two broken ones in my shop somewhere. I use the as larger punches.
entropy
Member
Some of us 'seasoned' reloaders (43 years for me)
are just plain stubborn......Seems a lot of you Dillon owners have that "Dillon swagger"...
Charlie98
Member
Some of us 'seasoned' reloaders (43 years for me)
...and that Rock Chucker has so much leverage....
entropy
Member
Mine's just a 50 year old Jr. 3......
loadedround
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I second the use of the Dillon super Swage.
gifbohane
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Is is true that you must adjust the swager for every different 223 headstamp?
wvcardsfan
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I am depriming with a Harvey Deprimer. You feel the pin sink into each flash hole. I have run across a few that I could not find, and upon closer examination found the tell tale two holes of the Berdan. I am very careful of those. Apparently asking the Harvey to decap crimped primers is asking too much. It is a wonderful versatile gadget, but I have taken to avoiding the .223s and saving them for another day/another way.
loadedround
Member
1976B.L.Johns.
Member
I do not find that to be true in my experience.
In fact, when in doubt, (like a berden primed case, look into the case with a light.) And yes, off center flash holes in brass get biz-bagged!
And staked pockets can be even tighter!
Yup! One of the best tools for brass prep I have ever bought.
Answered above..........
But, one may feel a difference in the thickness of the base at the end of your stroke when swaging different headstamps.
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