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Problem with revolver lock up

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Arkansas Paul, Apr 13, 2013.

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  1. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    Hey all.
    Was at the range today with the Taurus 82 .38 Spcl. Fired one cylinder through it, loaded the next 6 rounds and the hammer wouldn't cock, nor would the trigger work the action. Upon inspection, the latch that releases the cylinder is stuck in the forward position, making the cylinder go in and out freely.

    Somebody help me. I hope this is something I can fix myself, but I'll take it to a smith if necessary. Really don't want to ship it to Taurus.
     
  2. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    First, with the cylinder swung out, push in on the center pin (the part that sticks out of center of the ratchet). That is what pushes the bolt (the internal part that is attached to the thumbpiece) back so the cylinder locks in place. If there is no tension on the center pin, something is binding. You might be able to use a small center punch and tap the front of the center pin, or you might have to remove the extractor rod and the center pin and see what is wrong. (NOTE: I forget whether Taurus uses left hand threads on the extractor rod or not, but be careful not to do damage if they do.)

    If the center pin has the proper tension, then the bolt is stuck or binding so that the center pin cannot push it backward. Fixing that could be as simple as pushing the thumb piece back manually to work out a burr or dirt, or might require removing the sideplate.

    Jim
     
  3. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    That was the problem Jim. Something was apparently causing the center pin to bind. I didn't think that something had to make the cylinder latch stay back. I thought something was jacked up with the latch itself. That shows you how much I know about DA revolvers. :)
    Anyway, working the pin in and out and applying a little oil, it now locks up tight again.

    Thanks a lot.
     
  4. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    Sounds like machining chips or polishing grit left inside that shouldn't' have been left there.

    Sounds like a side-plate removal and complete cleaning & lube is in order.

    If you ever want to fully trust it again.

    rc.
     
  5. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    Yeah, I worry about that as it is my wife's nightstand weapon. I'm not a gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination. Is that something that is simple? If I remove the side plate, nothing is going to jump out at me is it? No springs or anything?
    I can take it to a smith for cleaning, but I'd rather save the money.
     
  6. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    The only thing on a Taurus that can "jump" is the cylinder stop spring and plunger. They are in a hole in the lower arbor of the cylinder crane. It is not a bad design (S&W does it differently) but you have to be careful not to lose those parts when removing the crane.

    Jim
     
  7. wgaynor

    wgaynor Member

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    Glad you got it fixed. Do what RC said. I've had the same thing happen with a Taurus .22lr revolver. I fixed it by cleaning the heck out of it. Seriously, clean it like you have issue's (think OCD) and clean it some more. Lubricate any friction points and all moveable parts very well and you will probably not see it happen again.
     
  8. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    I know this is kind of old, but the stupid thing is doing it again.
    How hard is it to remove the center pin? I'm hoping that it just needs a good cleaning in there. Is is something a novice can do?
     
  9. Jim K

    Jim K Member

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    I have a problem here, folks. S&W changed those threads to left hand many moons ago but I don't know if Taurus did or not.

    Anyway, here is the way to remove the center pin.

    Remove the front sideplate screw and carefully pull the crane forward. Make sure not to lose the spring and plunger that is inside the arbor.

    Remove the cylinder from the crane. Using copper vise jaws (or two cents - literally, two pennies) clamp the front end of the ejector rod in a vise. Put fired cases into at least two chambers. Turn the cylinder clockwise (or the reverse - see above) to unscrew the ejector rod. Make sure the pin and springs don't get lost. Make sure not to bend the ejector rod accidentally while unscrewing it.

    Make sure everything is smooth and no burrs, dirt, crud, or bends that could interfere with the center pin function. Stone, file, or polish as needed.

    Re-assemble, using Blue Loctite on the ejector rod threads. Replace the cylinder in the crane, and the crane in the frame (don't forget the spring and plunger).

    Jim
     
  10. Arkansas Paul

    Arkansas Paul Member

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    Taurus is left hand threads. I removed everything today and still can't get it right.
    I'm taking it to a smith because I don't want to screw something else up and end up doing more damage. Hell, it can't cost much for something so minor.
     
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