Problems reloading 9mm for new kimber

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So when I first started reloading few years ago I came up with my 9mm load and never messed with it. Focused of getting other loads figured out and dont shoot it much. Did a work up with power pistol, stepping up .2 gr each step from min to max. Ended up using 6.4gr , 115 jhp zero bullets, 1.150 OAL.

I came down to that overall length by seating bullet back slowly to tell when it quit hitting the lands in my g17. I was thinking it was longer than normal but recent events had me rechecking factory ammo I had for comparison and finding out that's about what most OAL on 9mm 115gr is.

This load worked in my ria 1911 and my baby glock I got later. I always pluck test new pistols before shooting my ammo. Found out it doesnt fit my p38 or my cz85.

I just got a kimber aegis elite custom oi 1911 9mm. Plunk tested at the range and saw my ammo wouldn't work, so plunked a factory pmc 115 through the ejection port and seemed free so shot a box of those. Nothing bad happened and had an ES of 33fps for the whole box. Average of 1150fps

So today I'm prepping brass for new test loads with several powders since I have a chrono now and can really dive deep on getting some consistent rounds. I checked the pmc oal and was surprised some were as long as 1.158" so I pull barrel and plunk test properly this time and find that tho they do plunk , they cant turn in the chamber due to hitting the rifling.

I also have federal and blazer 115 9mm factory ammo. Federal passes plunk and turn. Blazer mostly pass but can feel one or two that seem to drag ever so slightly turning. Both of those brands ranged from 1.140-1.150 oal.

I recheck my other 9mm pistols and all factory passes in those until I get to my wife's kimber sapphire ultra carry . Pmc will stick in the barrel on it also.

I plunk an empty prepped and expanded case in my kimber barrel and measure how much is sticking out to know what I need to get to when measuring to make sure bullet is off the rifling. I start a dummy round with my zero bullets dropping OAL in steps. Finaly full plunk at 1.075 but wont turn free. 1.070 let's it turn free. ....so looking at 1.065 or maybe even 1.060 to be safe.

Apparently the zero bullets are a fairly fat ogive.

Shortest min seating depth I've found for 115 gr in books is hornadys book with xtps at 1.075. Not quite short enough with these bullets. And their info doesnt cover all the powders I wanted to try.

So not sure where to go at this point. I have 2000 of these bullets still cause I thought I liked em so I bought bulk.

Do I load em short at 1.060 and stay off max to make em work in everything?

I really dont want to have to have multiple 9mm loads for different guns. Really like this kimber . Was planning on optimizing a new loading for it and making sure it functioned in everything else.

Throat the chambers or whatever? Not really educated up on that.

Is that something Kimber should do since some brands of well known, mainstream factory ammo don't fit in the chambers properly on both kimber 1911s we own. Would like to think our $1200 and $1500 kimbers would be good to go from the factory.

No matter what I'm not modifying the p38, just dont really care to shoot it anyway and is fine with factory stuff. Maybe I'd do the cz , but I think it could be good with an OAL within what books have. It didnt look too bad on the plunk.

I seriously debated not reloading 9mm anymore until prices and availability problems for factory ammo came up again recently. That still may be the end result for 9mm for me, but since I have the component and everything I want to use them up at least and use this as a learning experience for in depth load development with the chronograph even if I decide to not continue loading it after these 2000 bullets are gone.

Any input on throating the barrels on the kimbers, extra short OAL 9mm, bullets on the lands, experience with the zero bullets etc is appreciated.

Seems like the best course of action would be to hopefully get kimber barrels done since they have problems with factory ammo, and then load shorter than I was at 1.150" (but still within book values) to make the shape of the zero bullets work in the other guns that fit factory ammo just fine.

But then if I do that and get another kimber ....may have problem again.


James
 
Do I load em short at 1.060 and stay off max to make em work in everything?
You can.

And BTW, Zero 115 gr FMJ I have are sized larger at .356" so you will want to reduce your powder charges anyways - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...re-sized-the-same.818806/page-2#post-10567453

FYI, here's Speer load data for Power Pistol and 115 gr TMJ (Thick plated RN) - https://reloading-data.speer-ammo.c...m_caliber_355-366_dia/9mm_Luger__115_rev1.pdf
  • 9mm 115 gr Speer TMJ Power Pistol 1.135" OAL Start 6.2 gr (1122 fps) - Max 6.7 gr (1212 fps)

So since you are using shorter than published OAL, you could reduce powder charges by .3 - .5 gr and since using larger sized bullet, you could reduce the start/max charges further by another .3 gr and end up with 5.4 gr start charge and test 5.4, 5.6, 5.8, 6.0 gr for the initial powder work up.
 
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My Glock 43x and my wife's 43 will eat anything but my daughter's G34 with a Faxon match grade barrel is very picky on length. Anything over 1.07 with the RN bullets I use will contact the rifling and won't go into battery. I load them at 1.065 and they work fine. If I use FP's I can load them a bit longer.
 
Contact CylinderHone on Facebook. He can cut a proper throat in that barrel.

Most 9mm barrels are cut with really short or no throats. His work makes a huge difference. I have another barrel going out to him this week.
 
I typed out a big long post here on why you should send them back to Kimber, but then I deleted it all.
I would send them back to Kimber and insist that they make them shoot factory ammo and if they won't help you, by saying something like the guns are in spec, then
Texas 10 mm has the solution for you.

I'll leave it at that.
 
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• All chambers vary by manufacturer.
• All ammo varies by manufacturer.
• Not all ammo sold can be fired in every pistol.
• Not all bullets sold for reloading can be used in every pistol.
• The OAL mentioned in the reloading manual is part of the chamber pressure report. It is not a recommendation.
• You're going to need to load for the "tightest chamber". But that may change depending upon the shape of the bullet. IOW, Your shortest chamber when using conicals (like an XTP) may be different from your shortest chamber when loading blunt RN (like RMR FMJ).
• Most of the CZ barrels are hardened and many gun smiths won't ream them.

Hope this helps.
 
• All chambers vary by manufacturer.
• All ammo varies by manufacturer.
• Not all ammo sold can be fired in every pistol.
.


These are my only hangups. On factory ammo with a factory gun both should be built to saami specs and not have an interference fit. I believe almost no one that doesnt reload has even heard of a plunk test. I had no idea of any of this stuff before I started reloading. ....9mm gun, just bought whatever 9mm they had at the range when i was shooting. Never knew how or why to check anything beyond that. And honestly, before today i didnt think it was necessary to check if shooting factory ammo.

I suppose it's possible I got the unicorn right out of the gate and happen to have the worst fitting factory ammo for the kimber chamber. But also possible that there is some worse or maybe way worse that could be dangerous. Kinda wanna go buy some big hollow point factory ammo and see what it's like.

I take my 1.070 round i made and push it in the barrel hard with my thumb and it falls right out when I tip the barrel over.
I push a factory pmc round in hard with my thumb, I have to pry it out with a screwdriver.

Maybe that is a fairly normal occurrence and not actually dangerous, and I've just never seen it cause I've never checked unless I was working on reloading. Never heard anything like that mentioned in any safety classes or anything either.

James
 
I typed out a big long post here on why you should send them back to Kimber, but then I deleted it all.
I would send them back to Kimber and insist that they make them shoot factory ammo and if they won't help you, by saying something like the guns are in spec, then
Texas 10 mm has the solution for you.

I'll leave it at that.

That would have been a good read ,cause that's what I'm considering. My fear is they would just say they are inspec as you said and do nothing, considering both barrel chamber throats seem to be very similar. Seems rediculous they wont chamber regular factory range ammo properly. Nothing exotic here.
I'll have to look up their warranty too. Mine is new. Hers is a few years old.

Looked up texas 10mms guy and he looks legit. Looks like I could probably buy a reamer for about the same cost of getting a couple barrels done tho. Not sure I know all what's needed tho.

James
 
It’s pretty ridiculous that it won’t shoot factory ammo. You pay 800.00 for a gun and can’t be sure it it will shoot factory ammo in it reliably.
My 200.00 dollar PF9 will shoot any ammo, factory or myreloads.
 
Well I sent a detailed email off to kimber and will see what they say. I've read that they usually make folks pay for shipping, but there have been exceptions to that. I feel this would be exception worthy. If I have to pay shipping probably cheaper and easier to either buy a throat reamer or send the barrels off to get done on my own. I like tools and doing stuff myself so I'll do some more research on that. Quick look at it , it appears easy and I'd have it for any future use.

James
 
If you have to pay shipping, I think sending the barrel to Kimber would be a better idea as the work would be done under warranty.

If you get any resistance from Kimber customer service, members have gotten very favorable responses from manufacturers/vendors by referencing THR threads.

I would suggest you email Kimber this thread ... and I am confident Kimber customer service will take good care of you.
 
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If you're required to send it back to Kimber and stuck paying shipping, you could likely just send the barrel and save yourself a few bucks. I have a 5" 9mm Kimber barrel I've never used. May load up some dummies and just check it to see if I have any similar issues.
 
If you have to pay shipping, I think sending the barrel to Kimber would be a better idea as the work would be done under warranty.

If you get any resistance from Kimber customer service, members have gotten very favorable responses from manufacturers/vendors by referencing THR threads.

I would suggest you email Kimber this thread ... and I am confident Kimber customer service will take good care of you.

Yeah, Word spreads fast around these forums, with things like companies that sell expensive guns that you can't buy ammo for so you can shoot them.

This is a reloading forum, not a pistol forum, but we understand what the problem is, because it is a reloading forum we have all dealt with the importance of SAAMI specs and what they mean.
 
Thanks for all the responses and advise to figure out what to do with the situation. I'll update when I hear from them.

James
 
I have a Aegis I bought several years ago. I found it to have a (within SAAMI specs) tight chamber. It would shoot most factory ammo, and not all factory ammo are to SAAMI specs.
Long story short, I bought a Clymer throater reamer, made an adjustable stop, and hand reamed the throat deeper. I believe I went about .025" deeper.
 
Well, still no response from kimber, but I dont think I care anymore. I kept thinking about it and looking at info for throat reaming and decided to just buy the clymer throat reamer.

I like the idea that i can control the depth of it instead of whatever kimber would put it to if they were to fix it. Maybe I'd end up with a huge jump to the lands or maybe I'd still have problems with some ammo....who knows.

Thinking that since these zero bullets I'm using are apparently pretty wide, they clear my glocks and others I have, but not the cz, I'll start playing with seating depth to see where they fit on the cz. No point in making rounds any longer than that I guess. And they wernt too far off from plunking in the cz by the looks of it.

Guess I could just try to find the worst offending factory ammo and make that clear. Then adjust my oal to the lands after that. Saw a tread about the gen 5 glocks having issue with a certain heavy SD round that I cant recall now. Maybe buy whatever that was and make it fit in our kimber barrels.

Or maybe just go a tiny bit and maybe get some really good accuracy out of that pmc or other factory 115gr ammo. Guess that might be a good way to start. Cant add it back , but can always take more

Dunno, thoughts on how to decide how much to throat the barrels?

James
 
About 4mm, then find some 9x23Win brass. Then if it's no fun, I'll send you my 9mm Kimber barrel.

He's asking about how deep to throat the chamber. That's not rechambering to fit a 9X23. Throating it will still leave it a 9mm Luger chamber, but allows one to seat the bullets to a longer OAL.
 
Still no reply from kimber and throat reamer is here.
Also ,I realized Im stupid. Was making dummy rounds at different lengths and only had a few bullets left in the open box.... grabbed another box....and the 2000 I have left are all fmj, not jhp like I had been loading. Oooof. They allow for a .030-.040" longer oal than the jhp I was trying to use.

Still going to ream both the kimbers so I dont have to worry about the factory ammo I have having problems in them.

Just going to make the kimbers fit the same dummy rounds as the cz. Cz will take about . 030" longer OAL than the kimbers. So should still be a reasonably short jump for factory rounds and put me at 1.130" for the 115gr zero fmj and 1.090" with the jhp 115gr zeros that I dont have anymore of.

James
 
Well, still no response from kimber, but I dont think I care anymore. I kept thinking about it and looking at info for throat reaming and decided to just buy the clymer throat reamer.
Good. I've done this for a couple .45ACP 1911s,.and I'm quite happy. Make or select a couple cartridges to use a your Go Gauges, and Go Slow. That tapered reamer cuts faster than you'll expect it to.
 
Well that was easy.
Wife's was actually a little tighter than mine.

My kimber started at needing a 1.07 w/jhp and 1.100 w/fmj zero bullets just to clear. Factory pmc would hit.

Pmc cleared with about half the total cutting I did using the reamer.

When I was done. 1.095 w/jhp clears and 1.100 doesnt.
1.135 w/fmj clears and 1.140 doesnt.
Same with the cz i didnt cut ,just used for reference.

So these fmj I'll be loading guess set to 1.125 and see how they do. Guessing the factory pmc I have will have a nice .010-.015" jump to the lands also based on comparing the dummy's while cutting down.

Now I got that all sorted and should be able to come up with a load that will work pretty well in several pistols! And wont have to worry about getting some cheap plinker ammo if it's ever cheap again. Woohoo.

James
 
Super, got a response from kimber a few hours after I did the barrels.

They suggested I send in Just the new gun to see if the barrel is out of spec since my wife's sapphire is out of the 1 year warranty term. Said if its within their spec they would just send it back.

Looks like I did the right thing buying the reamer.

James
 
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