Proper lever action rifle barrel clearing in the field

What is the proper way to clear a lever action rifle's barrel in the field if obstructions such as dirt or snow made they're way into the firearm ?

 

A fella I was hunting with one year had that exact problem. He took a handy stick and used that to push out the snow. Seems the stick was a little to dry and broke off in the chamber. He then took a stick that was a bit greener and went at it from the muzzle. This one he managed to wedge in the barrel against the first stick. Result was a trip into town for a couple tools and a helper with a bit more sense.

Sorry I don't have the answer to your question, but this is definetly the way not to clear it.

 

First things first unload it. Then, and this is the only time I can see using such a contraption, grab a piece of trimmer string that you’ve pre-cut from home and coiled in your pack, and run it through from the breech.

If you cut the end at a bias you can add a patch. The tail end should be heated to the point of melting then flattened out on a metal surface and filed or trimmed down to a “button” that fits through the bore with the patch (the button keeps the patch from falling off the string). Remember to account for the patch when sizing your button. Slide the patch down the length of the trimmer line to the button and proceed.

If it’s snow, carry a torch style lighter and warm the barrel up (again, after unloading it). Keep a light or a white patch with you to put in the chamber to ensure it’s clear.

 

i put electrion black tape over the muzzle.

 

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I tape the muzzle of all hunting rifles before hunting season and then remove it after hunting season. I carry spare tape on the barrel. If you get a shot the air pressure ahead of the bullet blows the tape off before the bullet gets to the muzzle. It is perfectly safe and does not effect accuracy.

 

A couple feet of trimmer string is an awesome bit of kit in the field. It goes next to the firestarter cottonballs and the backup backup matches.

 

weed eater trimmer line is the original bore snake. been using one for many mango seasons.

 

I've done the tape trick when I remember to do it.

I really like the trimmer string idea in case you forget to tape and an oops happens.

-Jeff

 

I can only get the "black tape" to stay on when there is no front sight to contend with.

 

Maybe the classic Winchester Model 1873 with their butt trap carried jointed cleaning rods were trying to tell us something.....

-kBob

 

Ask your buddy to trade you rifles.

I keep a small 8” piece of a metal clothes hanger in my pack. It has lots of uses.

 

Ah, the clothes hanger wire...

As a kid I carefully bent a hanger straight, folded a hook in the cut end and hammered it down to fit the bore and used it to pull patches through my .22. I had a rod for my .410 but of course that was useless for the .22 rifle. At 14 I made a short version with a loop in the end I stored with my Ruger RST-4.

Vital parts of my 1959 Pontiac in HS were held together with coat hangers as well.

-kBob

 

A small pistol rod (as in short) or a break down rifle rod and/or a Bore Snake, those would hardly take more room than a coat hanger wire and a tree branch stuck in the muzzle. RPP and WWG also make a take down lever screw (for Marlin rifles) that allows removal of the bolt easily in the field for evening camp fire cleaning as needed.

 

As other have said, brass rods or bore snake, no harm in having both plus a jag, patches, and clp if you want to prevent rust in the bore or get out some stubborn crud.
Whatever you do don't pour vegetable oil through the bore or use a fishing rod to remove a stuck casing. Not that I have any experience.

 

If there is dirt or snow plugging the barrel how are you going to get a bore snake or trimmer string through the plug?

 

Perhaps a gap in the blockage. But a brass rod would be better, with the snake used to make sure the barrel is completely clean.

 

Unless you took care to pack several inches of it in there and let dry (mud) or let re-freeze into ice, it will poke right through. Again, while I have experimented with such devices and carry a hank in my pack, I am not comfortable recommending such an implement for regular duty cleaning. For that, a solid rod, never segmented except for my Pro Shot shotgun rod which is heavy gauge, large diameter stainless.

 

I do 100% of my hunting at five different places. All have houses and barns so worse case scenario for me is it will take 5-15 minutes to get somewhere that has plenty of items I can use to clear a blockage. I’ve never had an obstruction and the thought never crossed my mind until I read this thread.

 

I have never used the stuff, but that reusable camo wrap that I see all over the stores, even at Walmart, I suppose it could be wrapped such that it covers the muzzle? Most of my rifles that get used are stainless steel so I have been thinking to wrap them to reduce reflections while out. Not to push a product but again, those quick takedown screws for the lever are the bomb!

 

The Otis pull through is made of aircraft cable coated in plastic and has threaded ends. One of the included tools is a bore obstruction remover. The cable is stiff enough and has enough inertia that you could tap out most foreseeable* bore
obstructions from the back.

BSW

*I don’t know that it would clear a bore full of concrete if you managed to pack that in there and let it set up.

 

If it's snow, you can suck it out. Just unload first. I've done it many times!

You can probably suck out a plug of mud too. Fortunately, I've never run into that problem!

 

Now there’s a case where I might try to make water and aim carefully rather than endure a mouthful of mud.

 

I've been doing the same thing for years. I've made one end of the tape longer, so if I shoot, it can be peeled off and replace the part that came off.