Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by Hog huntin Harry, Aug 25, 2020.
Sorry I don't have the answer to your question, but this is definetly the way not to clear it.
If you cut the end at a bias you can add a patch. The tail end should be heated to the point of melting then flattened out on a metal surface and filed or trimmed down to a “button” that fits through the bore with the patch (the button keeps the patch from falling off the string). Remember to account for the patch when sizing your button. Slide the patch down the length of the trimmer line to the button and proceed.
If it’s snow, carry a torch style lighter and warm the barrel up (again, after unloading it). Keep a light or a white patch with you to put in the chamber to ensure it’s clear.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I tape the muzzle of all hunting rifles before hunting season and then remove it after hunting season. I carry spare tape on the barrel. If you get a shot the air pressure ahead of the bullet blows the tape off before the bullet gets to the muzzle. It is perfectly safe and does not effect accuracy.
A couple feet of trimmer string is an awesome bit of kit in the field. It goes next to the firestarter cottonballs and the backup backup matches.
I really like the trimmer string idea in case you forget to tape and an oops happens.
I keep a small 8” piece of a metal clothes hanger in my pack. It has lots of uses.
As a kid I carefully bent a hanger straight, folded a hook in the cut end and hammered it down to fit the bore and used it to pull patches through my .22. I had a rod for my .410 but of course that was useless for the .22 rifle. At 14 I made a short version with a loop in the end I stored with my Ruger RST-4.
Vital parts of my 1959 Pontiac in HS were held together with coat hangers as well.
A small pistol rod (as in short) or a break down rifle rod and/or a Bore Snake, those would hardly take more room than a coat hanger wire and a tree branch stuck in the muzzle. RPP and WWG also make a take down lever screw (for Marlin rifles) that allows removal of the bolt easily in the field for evening camp fire cleaning as needed.
Whatever you do don't pour vegetable oil through the bore or use a fishing rod to remove a stuck casing. Not that I have any experience.
Perhaps a gap in the blockage. But a brass rod would be better, with the snake used to make sure the barrel is completely clean.
Unless you took care to pack several inches of it in there and let dry (mud) or let re-freeze into ice, it will poke right through. Again, while I have experimented with such devices and carry a hank in my pack, I am not comfortable recommending such an implement for regular duty cleaning. For that, a solid rod, never segmented except for my Pro Shot shotgun rod which is heavy gauge, large diameter stainless.
....or just use tape. On a couple rifles I keep extra tape wrapped around the buttstock for this reason.
ETA: The corkscrew on a SAK might help too.
obstructions from the back.
*I don’t know that it would clear a bore full of concrete if you managed to pack that in there and let it set up.
You can probably suck out a plug of mud too. Fortunately, I've never run into that problem!
Now there’s a case where I might try to make water and aim carefully rather than endure a mouthful of mud.
I've been doing the same thing for years. I've made one end of the tape longer, so if I shoot, it can be peeled off and replace the part that came off.
As long as you can make the next shot directly after.
The one where you hold the now “clean” rifle to your face.
I could clean the rifle, sure, but I love coffee...
I don’t think I could over come the the, um, thought of it!
“Ugh! You ‘mell that, Dadi?” Says my boy about things...
Oh! Wait! I love coffee! I always have some with me. Could I part with some to forego peeing on my rifle?
Like I said, I can clean the rifle later.
Separate names with a comma.