Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by G3gavin, Jun 14, 2009.
Field stripping the PTR is really easy, except that putting the bolt back together can be difficult. But you can remove the complete carrier to inspect it and put it all back together in seconds. I'd take a look at it for extreme fouling or for being dry (no oil).
G3, Welcome to The High Road!
A PTR-91 jamming? No way. They are typically ultra reliable, make sure its clean, and if all else fails stick to the cheap stuff (only if you have to though). It should kick shells at least 20ft...if not there is a problem.
but here is my question, why would it cycle the brown bear ammo and not the megtech? does the megtech has less pressure than the others? what sux is i spent all my money on the gun that i cant really go out and try other brands at the moment.lol and once again thank ya'll for the info, this is a pretty neat site!
The steel case on the B. Bear doesn't expand as much, and could (probably is) the cause of the dirty chamber, that in turn causes the Magtech (as well as most other brass cased ammo) to stick in the chamber. FWIW I would clean it and avoid steel cased junk.
I don’t have either Brown Bear or Megtech ammo.
If you want to have a rifle that will consume any ammunition on the market, get a bolt rifle, a single shot, or a lever action.
Semiautomatic military rifles were not designed to shoot anything but the issuing nation’s service ammo. Soldiers were issued ammo by their military organization. The military wrote and controlled the ammunition specification; the operating characteritics of the ammo matched the performance characteristics of the rifle, and every thing was fine.
Until civilians acquired the rifles and expected them to shoot any brand, any bullet weight, any powder, and any old nasty brass.
Your rifle will work reliably within a limited range of ammunition parameters. If you ever reload, I would recommend staying with 150 grain bullets, powders close to IMR 4895 burn rate, and keep velocities at 2600 fps in your 18” barrel (based on the performance of Australian Ball). If you don’t reload, find a brand that works and stick with it.
It is also incumbent on you to keep the chamber and sliding surfaces of the rifle clean.
P.S. Australian ball function perfectly in my rifle.
Portugese, Australian, British, Chinese steel case, Privi Partisan, all the American stuff I have tried functions fine in the rifle.
That's surprising is it because of the tar sealant at the neck?
The chamber of the PTR91 is fluted, meaning there are grooves cut into the chamber. You can probably see dirty stripes on your spent cartridges. The way the action works on the PTR is that the fluting allows some gas to pass around the cartridge case to aid in it's contraction as the bolt blows back.
That's why you see your cartridges get so dirty. The down side of this is that if you use that Cheap Russian Crap, it will gum up those flutes. If that happens then the gas will not be able to travel around the outside of the case to shrink it down prior to blowback.
So if you were shooting Brown Bear for a while, you probably have a good build up in your chamber clogging up the fluting. Brown bear used tar sealant and varnishes the outside of their steel cased bullets don't they? This is 2 trouble spots.
Clean your chamber Really Good and go back to the range with your Magtech ammo.
It's a great rifle. Good luck!
Note - some ammo uses tar sealant to seal their bullets. This is the enemy of the PTR because of it's fluted chamber design. Stay away from it if you can.
By the way, any tricks or special tools people are using to clean the flutes on these really well?
You bought a great rifle, just don't feed it Magtech.
Magtech = Bad
I had the same problem with my L1A1. Changed out ammo and I know longer had to step on the bolt handle to eject the case.
Every once in awhile you can find these chamber flute brushes on gunbroker, or Adam has them. Combined with the rod, they work really well on the chambers of these rifles. Most chamber brushes contemplate one rotating the brush around in there, but this one you thrust in and out of the chamber... it doesn't rotate. Cleans those flutes out really well.
I've had good luck with this ammo. They are local guys, and it shoots really good in my rifle.
If you can't find one of these chamber brushes, get you a German cleaning kit, as the brushes on that kit seem to do a passable job. It takes awhile to run them through there maybe 10 times with that pull chain, but that will work too.
I think its mostly clean but my sweets still comes out blue on the chamber. I use a brass 45 caliber brush and I DO NOT Rotate it in the chamber I have thrust it back and forth to make sure the flutes are clean and the damn thing shines like orions belt now but the only thing I have not done yet is a function test.
I plan to function test it this friday using the recommended ammo from JLD (FEDERAL or REMINGTON).
Please help I have still not found any way to get this thing into a semi automatic weapon.
Happens a lot though. There is some seriously horrible ammo being produced, just be careful.
Crap ammo like this is just as likely to blow something up as to cause a malfunction.
I've run 1,500 rounds thru my PTR-91 F.
None of these cycle in my PTR, all fire straight and true, do not eject.
British Radway Green early 80s on JG sales.
South African 1980- 1983.
Portugeese surplus. Samco,
But Norinco China Sport, Sellier & Bellot surplus, all commercial like Remington NUC and American Eagle, cheap commercial, also Lake City and Federal, work great.
Southern Colorado Ammo stuff rocks.
To shop ammo options
www.gun-deals.com/ammo Ammo deals boiled down and shipping figures. Very cool site.
First they sent an email. "PTR only recommends commercial ammo". I think it sucks PTR only states their ammo preference when you ask, not in their promo lit. They first sent me a form letter in response to my inquiry about cycling issues. They seem to be sick of the issue, form letter, brisk on the phone, but fail to address it in their marketing.
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