Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Man he does nice work! Not sure I’m ready to put that kind of time and money into a daisy ....... BUT I sure like that cock on closing rapid fire set up and guess I’ll need another donor gun to start on!
 
That's quite the gun and it's amazing what Shane can come up with. The guy must eat sleep and dream about BB guns in his spare time. I sure have no regrets about him building a stock for me.
 
Hey Mark! Installed the spring and tube in the model 111, punches nice now! I made a new tube for the little gun but things went south somewhere. The tube looked good but I ripped pert of the bulkhead seal during install. I also shimmed the spring about 5/8” it all feels good but is missing the punch I anticipated, eithe the inlet of the made tube is a tad too far up or that compromised seal is the cause. I may order another seal and redo it all. Unfortunately I seem to have also caught the Crosman 1377 bug and am now working on that bit of my past!
 
It's good to hear the 111 is hitting well!

On the 102, what is the fit like, between the small hole in the barrel seal (the seal at the end of the compression chamber inside the gun) and the OD of the air tube? If the fit is too loose, air will escape that way instead of all of it exiting through the air tube. If the fit is too tight, the friction might cause the piston speed to drop, but that's less likely to be the issue in my experience. If this is the seal that got ripped during the plunger assembly installation, that could very well be the cause for the same reason as a too loose fit between the AT and the hole in the barrel seal.

What is the ID of the tube you made?
 
Hey Mark!
The tube I used is thin wall stainless (wish I knew where I got it!!) it mic's out at .161OD and .131 ID the seal to tube fit was good, I think buggering the new seal or slight misplacement of the inlet port is responsible for the poor performance.
 
I am sorry for the late reply- I'm not getting any alerts when a new post has been made like I used to.

I sent you a PM with details, but yes- I have a few springs left.

Hi Cobalt327,
I would like to purchase a high performance spring and air tube for my Red Ryder.
Thank you
 
Hi Cobalt327,
I would like to purchase a high performance spring and air tube for my Red Ryder.
Thank you
Again, I apologize for the late response. I need to somehow find more time for the forum! Please check your messages, and thanks.

Mark
 
I'll be checking back in soon. I finally gathered almost all the parts I need to reassemble / repair my No. 111 Mod 40 Red Ryder. Finally found a spring for the shot tube. Last part I need is the clip on cap that covers the BB loading port. Appreciate everyone's help.
 
Wow, I just finished reading all 49 pages. This really motivated me to drag out my ChiCom Red Ryder. I bought two of them a few years back to use on a back yard BB gun range the previous owner built. They are definitely under powered with a average of 282 for one and 265 for the other. I had a model 94 as a kid in the 50's that could easily shoot through tin cans. Long story short I was lucky enough to get one of Cobalts spring and tube kits. It brought the average up to 376.8 with a high of 389. I can't thank the members of this group enough for all their research and inspiration.
 
How's your accuracy? I'm thinking I'm going to slow mine down and see if I can get the accuracy back up to where it should be. It's not much fun to have a fast gun if it isn't accurate. I'd like something a little better than being able to hit a tin can at 15 yards. English sparrows aren't a very big target at that distance.
So the previous owner was a BB gun fan. That's interesting.
 
How's your accuracy? I'm thinking I'm going to slow mine down and see if I can get the accuracy back up to where it should be. It's not much fun to have a fast gun if it isn't accurate. I'd like something a little better than being able to hit a tin can at 15 yards. English sparrows aren't a very big target at that distance.
So the previous owner was a BB gun fan. That's interesting.

I may have over oiled it when I reassembled it. I've swabbed it a few times but it seems not be a tack driver. It wasn't to begin with so it may be the nature of the beast. The original property owner was into all shooting sports, He built a rifle/pistol range, a skeet tower and the bb gun range. The people I bought the property from spent their time undoing his hard work, They removed the reset mechanism from the BB gun range and removed some of the targets. bb gun range 002 (Large).jpg
 
Too bad they had to disassemble everything. That would be a great range for any type of airgun shooting. Especially if the targets could be reset remotely. I could spend a couple hours at a time there.
 
I may have over oiled it when I reassembled it. I've swabbed it a few times but it seems not be a tack driver. It wasn't to begin with so it may be the nature of the beast. The original property owner was into all shooting sports, He built a rifle/pistol range, a skeet tower and the bb gun range. The people I bought the property from spent their time undoing his hard work, They removed the reset mechanism from the BB gun range and removed some of the targets.View attachment 961189
Besides an oily shot tube hurting accuracy when shooting a smoothbore BB gun, accuracy has a lot to do with the fit of the BB in the shot tube. And that has a lot to do with the type and age of the shot tube. Back when the BB guns used the removable gravity feed shot tube like your gun uses, the bigger priority was not to jam, rather than the best accuracy. The BBs back then were terrible compared to what we have today- the old BBs had flats on two sides, and were all over the place as far as uniformity. So the shot tube ID was made large so the BBs wouldn't jam.

One thing that can really help accuracy in the older guns is to replace the gravity feed shot tube with a spring loaded shot tube, like used in the model 25. It's more accurate because the fit of the BB is tighter. This also adds MV. The 25 tube is a little longer, so a spacer is made from a copper pipe connector that fits over the barrel shroud and butts against the front sight band. This is not a permanent modification, so it can be easily reversed. The 111-40 below has a 25 shot tube installed. The copper spacer can be given a brushed finish, or it could be painted satin black, or even polished to a high luster. Another spacer type is made from a ~ 1/8" slice of copper tubing. This is the same diameter as the barrel shroud, so it locates on the 25 shot tube cap's OD.

1938 SHANE RESTOMOD.jpg

25 shot tube spacer info.jpg
 
I've been talking to Shane on YouTube and he pointed me to this thread. I hope you don't mind if I post a picture of my powder coated BBs here for him to see.
 

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I've been talking to Shane on YouTube and he pointed me to this thread. I hope you don't mind if I post a picture of my powder coated BBs here for him to see.
I would be interested in more information on these BB's. What's the OD of them and are they pretty consistent?.
 
The samples I measured seem to be between .1745 and .1750. It's tough measuring a round ball, and I have a cheap digital caliper. I have no scientific proof of accuracy, but I can tell you I'm not seeing the wild flyers I was getting before.
 
That's interesting. Are you doing the coating yourself? Is this something your planning on selling down the road?
You got my curiosity going.
 
I'm a bullet caster and I discovered powder coating and prefer it over traditional lube. I use a method called shake and bake. It's easily found on YouTube.

I've always loved my red ryders and a shoot them a good bit. I've recently started stretching out and plinking at longer ranges and smaller objects. My latest obsession is a 50 yard milk jug. I noticed that I was seeing a lot of flyers that veered way off course and started researching it. I ran across Tom Gaylord's article about tighter tolerances and decided to try this.

I don't think it's something I would want to sell, but I wouldn't mind sending some out for testing in other guns.
 
I'd like to try some on my modified 499 to see if they would improve the accuracy before I start detuning it. At the higher velocities that I'm shooting it might not. Don't expect hand outs and would be more than willing to reimburse you for them.

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I'd like to try some on my modified 499 to see if they would improve the accuracy before I start detuning it. At the higher velocities that I'm shooting it might not. Don't expect hand outs and would be more than willing to reimburse you for them.

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What kind of consistency/ accuracy are you getting with that set-up? Must be decent if you mounted a scope. My 111-40 throws 1 shot center, 1 shot left, 1 shot right, then repeats that randomly.
 
The samples I measured seem to be between .1745 and .1750. It's tough measuring a round ball, and I have a cheap digital caliper. I have no scientific proof of accuracy, but I can tell you I'm not seeing the wild flyers I was getting before.
What kind of consistency/ accuracy are you getting with that set-up? Must be decent if you mounted a scope. My 111-40 throws 1 shot center, 1 shot left, 1 shot right, then repeats that randomly.
If I may interject, be sure your shot tube is clean and dry- no oil. I use a clean .177 mop or a patch and denatured alcohol, but 91% isopropyl will do. It's a good idea to follow up with a dry patch, especially if using 91% iso alcohol.

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That's good advice. I think people have a tendency to overuse lube. A little is good, but too much is bad.

I ordered one of your springs, and I'm looking forward to making my Daisy all it can be.
 
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