Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

You also need to be aware that a broken piece of a magnet of this type can fly a few feet and could potentially hurt you.
I used to slot car Drag race, build a few custom open motors in my day even made my own cans & chassis, we raced mostly group 20's in pro stock, funny cars, dragsters.
Over 100 mph in 27 1/2 ft, funny car with an open group 7 modified koford custom wind arm, Slick 7 four segment magnets .
We used to travel to Ga. Tenn. Carolina's for races good times had by all.
Terry
 
Yeah that's why most of my spacing is done with nylon bushings that way is not magnetized nor harmful to the metal it'll wear to the metal of aware to do being A softer material. Something I plan to play with on my magazine shot tube as of right now I'm having a little experiment myself all of us know when you open the lever gate that little bit of half inch play in the lever To me in the way I dissect things is an assembly being longer than it needs to be we all add spacers in to these things to create a more tense Spring but do we ever think the opposite of just shortening the plunger assembly by a 1/2 inch turns out as seems to be the difference and I'm not finished cutting and playing with it but I will have it together tonight and thoroughly test it in the morning have no Chrome almond or I just have learned all my packages. I have an old old 500 shot that was torn apart nothing but salvage actually threw it's abutment into a B series 1938 now its threaded but back to main convo. It's basically a model 40 plunger assembly assembly cutting it down a 1/2 inch as I said before redrilling the holes and the right spot for sure have seen Shane I'm one of those videos hadn't hit backwards but Hey it happens we're gonna hurry doing something overlooked as simplest details but. All my findings are from feel I have no chronograph rough to hard data Any of my builds but I know I'm shooting 80' away without having to change elevation and as long as I don't miss I hit my targets. Photo should be a better visual explanation of what I'm doing may have to trim rear of assembly down do to it being a 1/4 inch taller. Don't mind the plunger a whole different experiment but need the longer AT to compensate for assembly and I hope it has the travel room to keep the extra air in chamber or I'm about to eat up a plunger.... soft setup first I think ..edit.. And I thought The blue Nitro fuel cars were fast Jesus I'm wearing to the fuel than the battery even though batteries of course faster better and easier to use plus plus animal with half a brain Knows that an electric motor goes as fast as you want till it changes polarity as long as you can supply the juice and I'm not even going to electricity that's the power of every major God I don't play with it
 

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Talk to text leaves a lot to be desired.

If you make changes that move the piston further rearward at full cock, be sure that the piston will still be inside the compression chamber. And leave room tor the lever to pass between the 'legs' of the plunger tube. These things may not be an issue- but check to be sure. Last, for best results the "super spring" (Shane named it) should not have preload added to it.
 

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Well honestly... it failed should have gone a 1/4 off and not a half because I need an 1/8 for lever to grab assembly... if it was a modern style assembly that's slightly angled instead of basically straight on trigger side it probably would have works but it was a salvaged part that wasn't important. Every fail just makes a new way to succeed. I did line up a low pivot lever to the stamp mark where it's holes would be and I may drill it. It's on a 111 and I just got a better condition one for my own purposes... I plink.. ALOT. I tried turning a 105 universal the same way but looking back I think my configuration was wrong. I just want everything to have a threaded abutment and the old style triggers. My safety is attached to my hand. I need more model 25 shot tubes the modern type been to broke to real get anything since I'm still catching up from being fired with no work for 4 days and new job is 200 a day 1099 for taxes and I spend 30 almost on fuel a day... something has to change soon . That's all for the wolfman later
 
The ETA for 25 shot tubes is sometime in October.

So very true about learning from failures. I've had plenty, heck anyone who has ventured outside the box either has or will at some point. It's basically unavoidable. It does help the Daisy community to tell about them, too- so thanks for that.

Wolf, IIRC the mark on the lever flange you are talking about is close to where the low pivot screw hole would be, but it's not exact. At least that's what I recall from when I looked at it a while back. So all I'm saying it to verify the hole placement before drilling.
 
The whole placement also may have been a failure in the other one it's just the stamp mark I did check it as an overlap and seemed right I really think I had the wrong combination of assembly love no assembly lever and trigger. How many of those shot tubes are you getting because I'm making Tr of money saves aside to buy a bunch of only next time cause I seem nowhere for sale basically and I like the modern ones. I did a little shop around it's hard to find. My 111b is what I choose to keep my extra threaded abutment in since I'm making it a sniper which sounds funny but 1 of those shot tubes to come is getting converted into a pellet firing rifled shot tube
 
If it's going to be a single shot anyway, there's really no need to use a spendy model 25 shot tube as a starting point. You could use carbon fiber for the shot tube. Cut the end off of a 7/16-14 threaded bolt, center drill it to the shot tube OD and epoxy the CF tube into it. You could try different "chokes" to see if there's an ideal size for the air inlet into the shot tube from the compression chamber to get the most MV from it. Or maybe my idea isn't feasible. In any event, Daisy is still out of shot tubes, the last eta I got was end of Oct.
 
Good info I didn't think about drilling out a bolt. I muzzle load my rifled barrels in my 1938b and 105b. I want all my guns to be threaded abutments and I perfer the magnetic style over the pin as I have dremeled it out to fit the size of the biggest AT the barrel can fit. Plan to have 3 of them like described above but with carbon fiber barrels and 2 that are fitted with rifled barrels the are ment for pellets. Things daisy should have already been producing. Every bb should be able to fire pellets. I know you guys are fond of the muzzle loaders but I'm a repeater guy. I fully understand the benefits of the solid muzzle load and thinking of threading the end of a power line 880 rifled barrel as my muzzle load set up as I have the 499b plunger assembly thanks you my main part guy as always cobalt you are greatly appreciated. The muzzle setup will be in a 111b that I put one of my salvaged abutment. I made progress on my auxiliary air chamber idea just in a different direction. I originally thought of 3 different designs 1 being a full assembly replacement. I really want to thank you guys for not only the info but to actually find that what I'm working on is up to par kinda put a fresh creative pep in my step. Found out I have a type of bacterial absence going on in my right arm today and I'll be off work for the next 3 days so we'll probably have not only the Oxford air chamber done chamber done but the thread is long barrel that I know Terry is Interested in before I haven't gotten here and cobalt thrill and go out for real thanks for your help me come here and I'll help you to understand the beginning it's invaluable Not only the info but the general willingness to actually Help someone go from what you know and advance themselves further because we all learn from each other in this world. Once I figure out my production model for my aux AC I'll be sending you all one. Don't want to handicap myself by having something no one else has and I want to keep pushing the level of power a single crank can provide. No multi pump or co2. I have to get me a chronometer so I can actually give my fps info to you guys.
 
If/when I get my new drill press up and running, I can drill 499 abutments and tap them 7/16 to use as abutments in the "B" guns. One advantage to them is that they use a simple inexpensive lip seal so a rubber abutment iseal isn't needed, although one could be used if wanted.

I was over at Shane's house a couple days ago and I was complaining about not having the drill press working because of my back hurting after my recent injury while lifting a mower, and come to find out, he injured HIS back again! Which means he's not able to do any lifting, either. Otherwise, he was going to help me get it sorted out.
 
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When a savage decides to play with modern toys I've resent the wolf man 111B now no threaded with a 20" powerline 880 rifle barrel and A499B plunger simply with a Spring of my choosing gotta shut a chronograph. I told you I was gonna salvage that shot too but I cut up cobalt. I cut the threaded end of it odd drilled just below the OD of barrel and tapped that sob in. SOOOO EXCITED. Dang the Avanti's different styled Carrier Carrier it doesn't like the working almost any gun doesn't work in the model 40 styles doesn't work and do anything I found but the 111 it didn't like the 111b so I'll play with it more later need to get my prescription
 

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Wolfman, Mark
I think I'm the only one on this forum lately that is into the single shot muzzle loaders, pretty sure Mark and Shane are repeater type guys ?
I'm in no hurry to get the next shot out of the gun, I'm old and I have all day.
The single shot muzzle loader goes well with the long rifle I'm getting ready to build, ever see a Kentucky repeater long rifle ?
Besides if your a good shot you don't need it........................:neener:.............................just kiddin:confused: Maybe after that Ill think about a repeater?
Just need to design a system to deliver the BB's to the breach one at a time that seals itself after the BB has passed through it ?
I put one of those cupped magnets in a model 25 repeater breach, it magnetized the BB's and stuck them together well into the feeder tube and jammed the gun at that point.
Just need to figure out how to feed one BB at a time and keep the feeder tube sealed?:cuss:
Mark sorry to hear about you and Shanes troubles, this getting old stuff isn't what they advertised, hope you guy's get to feeling better soon as the world of Daisy needs you both .
Terry
 
You know if you C.O.B.B. we're close I'd give you a hand. It's funny how life moves I remember when I started doing this and was glued to Shane's channel. As for sealing the feed system any type of material like electronically tape... I know this sounds hokie but lossly put tape over the feed port an use an exactoknife to cut an x into it like a curtain. The bb can pass-through it and when you fire the x will go against the next bb coming and in theory male an I'm prompt to wall/ flexing seal. Just a 420 idea once I read it
 
Sounds good except the magnets are so strong that the BB's stick together and wont let go of each other.
I wound up with one BB stuck to the breach (as it should be) and three or four other BB's stuck to that BB like a Daisy Chane going into the BB feeder.
The air tube would not even push it out the barrel when I tried it by hand, lucky I didn't put it together and try to shoot it.
I'm sure it wouldn't have been pretty.
Oh and I did have it sealed it with silicon as good as I could, it would have still lost some air but maybe been acceptable?
Maybe the exit for the BB loader needs to be further towards muzzle end, so it's away from the magnet?
C.O.B.B.=?
Terry
 
COB B Crusty old biker bastards XD spent ten years in an Mc mostly of Vietnam vets. And I feel my first muzzle was a failure over simple thing's I got excited and overlooked here's the small chamber test As it should have done dummy earlier the 499 as a white frame which as far as I know they all use the small air chamber and I was trying to do it in Large air chamber small frame
 

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Nothing wrong with the small chamber guns, my model 95 is small chamber gun and I think it shoots pretty well .
Had I done the same modifications to a big chamber gun would it do better? I haven't a clue, I assume it would .......................... but then we all know what happens when we ASSume things. The wide body receivers are stronger due to more structure inside them and that may help some?
I built a 1938B RR for a friend and it consistently shoots in the 560's -570's so I don't think there is much difference ?
Terry
 
It's okay wolfman, ignore me- I'm just bellyaching. I need to load up on advil and get it done.

Terry, I don't see a lot of difference between the two sizes (edited to add- with a conventional setup), but there does seem to be a slight edge to the larger chamber. Maybe 5% if I had to put a number on it.
 
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Yea but don't the smaller chamber guns have a longer stroke?
I may be wrong about that, seems like I read it somewhere?
Longer or fatter.........................that's what she said:what:

Terry
 
I agree with Terry's earlier post the internal structure tightens down the compression chambe As you mount the stock for grip lever blah blah blah You know the frame actually closes in which makes me think of tearing one of their compression chambers out of an 88 that I have it's missing everything other than the body and chamber I mean both sides are going fun so I pulled the above button out of it the other day so I so I have 2 b series with the threaded abutment. Only have one of them in my 111b because I had it looking like a .457 sharps and it's to be my range package. I put my stupid strong power plants in the smaller frames. My 111 is my power house right now put a 3 in piece of solid steel tubing and a strong spring in the internal cavity of the as Of course as always the things that I feel are good power plants and have been made at night so I can't wait till daylight did I actually see how the bb travels alot of my builds lately it's hard to track the bb as long asy target is less then a 1 second interval from fire to impact sound from 80' away I'm happy. Oh Terry in a.m.
I have something to show you. Kentucky long riffle XD I got you the reach out and touch something scavenger special for ya. I don't know also what I'm doing wrong but using the 499b plunger against a solid threaded barrel with a good setup just seems lack luster. Thinking about making an AT that is 6 inces long cutting 2 in from the barrel length technically but I think I like hitting the pellets with AT instead of a straight pump stroke. I'll mess with it more in the a.m. idk why I like to build from scratch using as little power tools as possible. I find self fulfillment in straight creating something. FYI power washer wands are the size of bbs an my full from scratch when ever I get to it is problem use a 1.5 inch piping for more air volume. It may have my over complex triple cavity plunger assembly but that's a while away. Tty all later
 
Hey Terry here is that scavenger special muzzle load. Mark and letting me last night that the 49B that the 499B is a wide frame that is a large air chamber I think it was smaller chamber like the rest of them I have to get one now so I can use the great ceiling compression of a white frame with a bigger chamber your chamber forget that muzzle load thing I'm hoping I can change it out when I get 1 cause I mean I'm a I'm a repeater guy if I can't consecutively hit things address me nuts and I can aim I mean I'm shooting cans from 80' away *stairs at terry* If I can pop the can I can pop your dome that's my idea shooting cans it's just real life simulation for a rifle to me that's why all these have to be repetitive hearing accurate and powerful so they're good for stimulation Eligibly come up with an idea and put it together in half an hour or so just because I want to see what it's like then tear it apart and do it again but this thing might stay this way. Oh and don't mind how it's all raw metal on the frame and permanent marker on it the gun needs to be blue still it was gonna be my 1st attempt but I don't want to destroy it for anymore and I have by taking the Lorado loop off which is very annoying it serves NOOOO PURPOSE other then annoyingly rattling
 

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I got a guy that I know I need to get a batch 8 of them these cells starting at a 100 but I've bought plenty of guns from he sent me a surprise Box for a 115 and I had not only a model 50 in it but had a couple wide frames as well. I've bought quite a bit of stuff off Roger hes a cool guy he likes going to auction an events. I need to start looking up where the Daisy events are going on start showing up at them. Maybe just maybe get a full start to making completely custom daisys. I plan to do this even if I can't make a career of it like Shane which would be freakin sweet I'll still do it as a extra money/ hobby. If I can get my production to the point to where my hobby pays for itself that's good enough. I need to finish these full stocks swap overs. Starting what was supposed to be uneasy's birthday gift but after I got fired I can't lost all motivational work on it. If it wasn't something that was shooting right now it wasn't getting played with but I'm doing better mentally now even though when your job don't pay enough which is this week well off because of this arm going on I'm calling around trying to find a better one. Until then I'm gonna keep tinkering drilling out my own air tubes out of aluminum right now from a gun cleaning kit. Gonna be the AT that goes to back of my auxiliary AC. Will have a proper length spring on the inside of assembly as the securing feature. Drilling to 1/8 on inside with long bed then trimming out a diameter so I don't blow the wall out while drilling then working on a plunger setup which I've already kind of found what I'm using for it just gotta finish This thing I've keep talking and talking about and I've found no one else doing this anywhere out there in any video or anything or anything I think I may have found something no 1 thought no 1 thought of just the usualization of empty space The reason why we're using an internal Spring is so that it will flex with the entire cycle without being moved. Glad I came this site cause some of my ideas I put them back burn on kinda reinspired like this one to actually get finished. edit... I really need a new job because I haven't bought anything from anybody online for any of the stuff and 3 weeks now and it's driving me crazy crazy I want some new Springs I want some new sites air tubes. I've actually been staying away from eBay just so I'm not tempted to buy stuff cause I want to get the picked out rails so I can put front rear flip of old peace lights on I was actually planning to buy an epmag 1022 a ruger frame to a ruger frame to put one of these in his well yeah I'm talking about doing crazy senseless things with these that some jackass from this hippie generation out there will be like wow that's completely cool oh it's 500 bucks I'm gonna buy it just could expensive when it cost me like maybe 200 to build. That's not trying to take advantage of him it's just you know you specialize and build something there are people out there that will pay for me to get advertise
 

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This is a reprint of photos hinz57 took much earlier in this thread. It details the internal construction. I have collagded the photos to make it easier to post.

ABUTMENT NO 1938 OVER 94 NOEL COMPOSITE.jpg

In the No. 1938 there's a tube to provide the retainer tabs for the abutment. The tabs were eliminated when they went to the "B" series guns because the abutment seal is integral to the abutment.and the abutment is integral to the shot tube.

99B OVER 1938B.jpg

Terry, earlier you had mentioned me being a repeater guy and that's true. I mostly shoot offhand standing or plink as I walk the property, so a repeater is just more convenient. Although, I do occasionally use my single shot muzzleloading 105B. For it I have a clip-on magnet on a string that holds BBs handy for reloading on the fly.

BB MAGNET ABC.jpg
 
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I like the way behind 50 seven's gun looks reminds me of a trench gun work working on my own magazine tubes Thompson bolts that were threaded for 7 sixteenths and that little bit of information up there is nice to know it was basically all the riders internal diameter of what is known as the compression chamber is the same how's wondering why that tapered part where your feed port is always looks the same between the models literally having a thin wall chamber could Could turn a large into a small or if you really got to go all the way down to the really small one that's in the 1894 which I'm not gonna attempt anytime soon but it's just a thought. On a short Daisy project and I'm working on I'm going to attempt to make the bottom magazine shot tube actually feed into a crab do you want it's a simple tubing elbow and I'm drilling a hole past the compression chamber. I got plenty of parts to tinker around and I'm trying to work on a good set up area to take pictures of anything when I'm done constructing it. Gonna attach 3 pictures once the container I use for babies to hold and I'm carrying a small amount The 2nd will be the overall configuration of the shorty I'm working on. And the 3rd will be all of their hair bolts I got to try doing this with. I literally have so many spare parts and things lying around my entire house from my grandparents over the years that it's nearly endless what I can do if I can find the right stuff I'm excited. I'm sure someone's bound to notice it's A38B and I plan to put a Spring trigger in it granted I have to drill another hole or make some other internal thing that will house it but I like doing custom stuff so I got basically junk frame it's all bent up that I got from a while back to make an 1887 look alike. I have like 6 different custom projects going on and I need to just finish one of them starting on my niece's birthday present gotta feel like a piece of crap I just haven't had the urge to work on it.... OK everything is stopping time to finish it. *edit* mark notice you're magnet is from a screen door latch I got a bunch laying around checking different strengths.
 

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