Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Discussion in 'Airguns' started by cobalt327, Jul 17, 2016.

  1. cobalt327

    cobalt327 Member

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    Terry, it's looking better every time I check in- just outstanding!

    Wolf, I hope you get to feeling better. You have an active mind, and an active imagination, just don't think anyone here is annoyed.

    I myself have been under the weather- enough so that I was basically ot of action for 5 days. That's the most time away I have taken in several years- longer than when I had the toe problem, but truth be told I'd have MUCH rather been working!
     
  2. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    Thanks Mark, I thought you had been absent for a while.
    Good to hear your feeling better, did you get the email I sent you?
    Actually the gun is all but done as of last week, now I'm trying to post how I did it in some kind of order, the forum will only allow me to post 10 pictures at a time then blocks me ?
    So I'm breaking it up into different sections of the gun I.E. stocks, barrel, cocking lever .....ect.
    I think next will be the trigger pack, you'll like it.
    Wish I could make them for people but it would be way to much work for this old man .
    Terry
     
  3. cobalt327

    cobalt327 Member

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    Terry, I sent you an email. Talk more soon...
     
  4. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    This 15.00 BB gun is getting out of control..........;)
    Anyway lets continue on to the trigger, my goal was to rid the trigger of all the added BS that I didn't feel it needed, at least for this gun.
    So I took a new stock 1938B Red Rider trigger pack and started cutting and cutting and cutting (with a Dremel) until it was down to bare bones and very simple.
    I eliminated the bear trap and safety along with the extra spring at the rear of the assembly, I also trimmed a bunch of plastic that wasn't needed.
    I found that if the eyelet used to hold the bear trap in place was carefully cut out it could be used to hold the assembly together when I was done.
    I found it could be put back in it's original place and a piece of rubber tubing slipped over the end would hold it all together.
    The first two pictures are the before and after the operation, the second two are just end views of the modified trigger pack.
    This worked very well and is very simple, I found that I could adjust the trigger pull weight by changing the spring with a heavier or lighter spring or even or adding another spring.
    Terry

    upload_2022-11-20_15-25-44.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_15-27-5.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_15-29-21.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_15-30-9.jpeg
     
  5. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    This modification worked so well I thought I would make one out of brass.
    I knew from the start this would be a small project to make, not so much the sides or the pins or sear but the trigger looked like a challenge.
    If you've ever looked at the RR trigger it's not a simple part and it only takes one flub to blow the whole thing.
    But what the heck, go for it !
    So I used 1/16" brass plate for the sides, to be sure they were the identical I soldered them together, cut them out as one and after drilling a couple of holes, took them apart.
    After cleaning the solder off both parts they were looking good so next I will move on to the trigger .
    Terry

    upload_2022-11-20_15-58-36.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_15-59-57.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-1-14.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-2-35.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-4-1.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-4-59.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-5-49.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-6-37.jpeg upload_2022-11-20_16-7-21.jpeg
     
  6. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    Now for the trigger, as I do most of my parts it started out as a drawing, the drawing was double sided taped to a piece of 1/4" brass and roughly cut out.
    After the rough cut I used my drill press with different size sanding drums and small diamond drum shaped sanders to clean up the edges.
    The trigger is such an odd shape I had no way to hold it in a mill vise for machining so I soldered it to another piece of 1/4" brass that I could get into the vise, problem solved.
    If you look at my crude instruction sheet you can see the trigger has multiple height levels and the overall height was wrong so all these issues were addressed in machining.
    After the machining was done I removed it from the brass plate and added a 1/16" piece to the trigger blade to widen it enough to match the other side.
    After all this was done it was cleaned up with diamond files, sand paper and buffing wheels.
    Yes I was happy, as this was very time consuming and as I all ready stated one wrong move and it's start over or trash the whole project. :)
    Next is fitting it all together and seeing if it works.
    Terry

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  7. cobalt327

    cobalt327 Member

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    Killer trigger!!
     
  8. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    Thanks Mark much appreciated:
    So next I needed to make a couple of shafts for the sear and sear actuator to ride on and one for a 2-56 screw to hold the assembly together .
    They were easy to make just a lot of measuring and fitting.
    The last picture is of a bone stock 1938B RR trigger pack and my slightly modified version.:rofl:
    Terry
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  9. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    So I think the trigger came out OK ?
    The next pictures show the progression of the trigger: stock, modified stock and then the brass.
    upload_2022-11-22_14-28-48.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_14-28-48.jpeg


    Next ill show how I incorporated the trigger with the hammer so the gun will fire a small plastic cap from a kids toy when it's shot. (It also shoots BB's)
    upload_2022-11-22_14-31-39.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_14-32-18.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_14-33-46.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_14-35-25.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_14-37-48.jpeg upload_2022-11-22_16-45-38.jpeg

    What I did was attach a 1/16" steel rod to the rear of the plunger, the rod goes through a hole in the little ball link that's attached to the bellcrank on the shaft that is part of the hammer assembly. The rod has a stop soldered to it so it goes so far and then pushes the bellcrank and hammer to the rear and at the same time the plunger sear latches on the trigger and is locked into place.
    To shoot the gun: first load a BB through the muzzle, listen for it to hit the bottom (click)...............then cock the gun, bringing the hammer to the fire position and locking the plunger. Now put the plastic cap onto the nipple mounted on the fixture soldered onto the side of the reciever . It loads like the real gun and is now ready to fire?
    Terry
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 22, 2022
  10. cobalt327

    cobalt327 Member

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    And to think I doubted you'd be able to top the last build... shm!!
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2022
    TerryCowger likes this.
  11. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    Thanks again Mark greatly appreciated !
    It's been said that I have to much time on my hands .o_O
    How about some random pictures of parts being made?
    Parts like sights and screws ?
    I did cut the front sight width down to about 1/4" and it looks and works much better.
    I couldn't find what I wanted in screws and I got a bad video review on my other gun due to the viewer not liking the OE Daisy screws I had put in it. So I made some to "MY" liking.
    First time I have made screws, didn't come out to bad ?
    The rifle is all but done, I will try to post some videos if I can make a few that are presentable?
    Terry
    upload_2022-11-23_10-41-26.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-42-3.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-42-49.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-43-53.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-44-54.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-46-0.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-46-54.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-47-57.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-48-49.jpeg upload_2022-11-23_10-49-27.jpeg
     
  12. TerryCowger

    TerryCowger Member

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    I just put his video up on YouTube if you all are interested?
    Terry
     
    BlackBarrelCustoms likes this.
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