Quick Tip: Easy Way to Remove Surface Rust from Your Firearm (Video)

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Hey folks,

Just wanted to share a quick video I put together over on my YouTube channel The Hobby Gunsmith — it shows an easy and safe way to remove surface rust from a firearm using nothing more than 0000 steel wool and a bit of gun oil.

A lot of us have run into rust issues, especially on older guns or those that haven’t been out of the safe in a while. This method has worked really well for me over the years — no harsh chemicals, no special tools, just a simple, no-nonsense solution.

https://youtu.be/eOG0LL68POw?si=B6KKVoShLJZO4Y44

If you get a chance to watch, I’d really appreciate your thoughts — and if you have your own go-to method for rust removal or firearm maintenance, I’d love to hear it.

Thanks for taking the time, and shoot safe!
– The Hobby Gunsmith
 
I used to work in a gun shop and had to remove surface rust on hundreds of consignment guns. 0000 steel wool and gun oil with a bit of gentle rubbing work great and won't damage the blue if you have the slightest notion what "gentle rubbing" means. I find that lighter oils with a bit of solvent such as RemOil work best, although most any oil will work.
 
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I also use 4/0 steel wool, but a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF trans fluid. Gently rubbing with wetted steel wool gets the loose rust, but wont hurt the bluing.
 
I learned from a man that restores blades for museums that it is best to use steel wool or copper wool DRY. Shake it out frequently and wipe the removed rust off frequently. Mixing rust with oil creates a paste of iron oxide, which is abrasive and can damage bluing.
 
I learned from a man that restores blades for museums that it is best to use steel wool or copper wool DRY. Shake it out frequently and wipe the removed rust off frequently. Mixing rust with oil creates a paste of iron oxide, which is abrasive and can damage bluing.
The goal of using oil is to lubricate and suspend the rust particles (iron oxide), which reduces abrasion to the bluing, not increases it. 0000 steel wool is extremely fine and gentle — and when paired with oil, it allows for controlled rust removal with minimal risk to the finish. Using it dry, as you suggested, actually makes it more likely to scratch or remove bluing. This isn't just opinion — it's widely taught and practiced in gun restoration circles.
 
The goal of using oil is to lubricate and suspend the rust particles (iron oxide), which reduces abrasion to the bluing, not increases it. 0000 steel wool is extremely fine and gentle — and when paired with oil, it allows for controlled rust removal with minimal risk to the finish. Using it dry, as you suggested, actually makes it more likely to scratch or remove bluing. This isn't just opinion — it's widely taught and practiced in gun restoration circles.
Thank you.
 
The goal of using oil is to lubricate and suspend the rust particles (iron oxide), which reduces abrasion to the bluing, not increases it. 0000 steel wool is extremely fine and gentle — and when paired with oil, it allows for controlled rust removal with minimal risk to the finish. Using it dry, as you suggested, actually makes it more likely to scratch or remove bluing. This isn't just opinion — it's widely taught and practiced in gun restoration circles.
I do see this advice offered frequently. However, it directly contradicts my experience.

The comments about rust (iron oxide) particles being abrasive are correct. You don't want them being rubbed on the surface whether there's oil on it or not. Lapping compound is generally just abrasive powder and some sort of oil and yet it will damage finishes if rubbed on them.

Degrease the surface and the steel wool, if necessary, and then dust the surface and the steel wool frequently during the rust removal process to make sure the iron oxide abrasive particles don't build up. This will reduce the amount of wear to the finish in the process significantly. This isn't just an opinion, I've tried it both ways on multiple guns. I used to help out at a gun shop and they had a lot of used guns that came in with light surface rust from neglect or handling. I started off using the oil and was getting a lot of wear on the bluing. Once I switched to using the steel wool dry and making an effort to keep the rust particles from being rubbed on the surface, there was a big improvement. It's possible to do the rust removal without any detectable finish wear once oil is out of the picture.

For those who get worried about using steel wool on a blued finish without oil for fear that the steel wool will damage the finish--don't. 0000 steel wool will not harm a blued finish. In fact, buffing with steel wool is the final step in some bluing processes. Even some cold blues (e.g. Oxpho) which are generally considered to be less durable than standard bluing recommend that step.

Here are the instructions from Brownell's website for using Oxpho cold blue.

To Re-Touch Old Blue:
1. Remove excessive rust with fine abrasive cloth. Thin oil and thin rust
need not be removed.
2. Dampen small cotton pad with Oxpho Blue and rub area to be retouched until colored.
3. Wipe dry with clean cloth and burnish bright with #0 steel wool or finer.
4. If deeper color is desired, repeat Steps 2 and 3.


Try the experiment yourself in another video. See if you can tell a difference.
 
I am another that uses 0000 steel wool dry and have never damaged any blue doing it with years and years of use. Using oil creates a slurry of rust particles which is abrasive.
 
There is no such thing a "surface rust". Rust is undesirable oxidation of the metal itself, or of the bluing (desirable oxide) in the metal.

Accept the fact that any rust removal method will compromise the metal or the desirable oxide (bluing) to some degree.
 
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