Rail Grease

[Hawaiian]

I just got a Kahr PM9 and have read that grease on the slide rails is a good idea when breaking it in. Any recommendations on a grease? Thanks

 

[tc300mag1]

i use Rig if i use a grease . If its stainless get Rig +P for Stainless

 

[berettaman]

Finally,someone else who uses RIG.I use it on my Cougars locking lug.

 

[Chuck Dye]

My guns, blued, stainless, auto, bolt, revolver, pump, and O/U, seem to like RIG +P. Get a syringe such as those sold by Brownell's, they make controlled application easy. Single syringes can be found at many gunstores.

 

[sm]

RIG
RIG+P

 

[Preacherman]

I agree that RIG is an excellent general-purpose grease, and works well on slide rails. However, the very best product I've found for this purpose is Brian Enos' Slide-Glide: see here for details. Well worth trying, IMHO.

 

[NJ3]

I use Tetra-Gun grease on my PM9 rails, as well as all my other pistols. It stay's slick and doesn't evaporate.

 

[Marcus]

I`ve been using Militec-1 grease lately for slide rails. Before that I used Valvoline hi temp bearing grease and it worked well too. Marcus

 

[Ky Larry]

I use Miltec-1 on the slides of my autos before a range session. For every day carry I use Break Free CLP. Grease is a dirt and grit magnet.

 

[Double Naught Spy]

I find that standard white/lithium grease works great, plus is hugely inexpensive. I use it on my 1911s, Colt Pony, Colt 1903, and Storm rails.

 

[ChickenHawk]

Personally, I like Slide Glide. I use it on the slide of all my semi-autos. A $10.00 tub will last you pretty much your entire life.

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html

ChickenHawk

 

[Ivy Mike]

Copper grade anti-seize compound is the way to go. Stays on and is very heat tolerant. Good lubricating properties and is not hygroscopic.

 

[Sean Smith]

I'd skip using grease entirely and use a good CLP like FP-10.

 

[Dr.Rob]

I have some hi-temp blue grease I goot at Wal-Mart, and it seems to work perfectly.

 

[Chris Rhines]

I don't use oil on any of my guns anymore; it doesn't stay where you put it and makes a mess. Grease works much better, provided you use something that is insensitive to temperature. I use Brian Enos Slide-Glide #1 on slide rails, locking lugs, bolt carriers and rollers, and generic lightweight moly-disulfide on sear and hammer hooks and other trigger parts.

- Chris

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Nothing but RIG or RIG +P.

 

[Sean Smith]

Grease works much better

I'd suggest that's not necessarily so, subjective impressions of the niceness of grease notwithstanding.

http://www.fp10.com/greasevsoil.htm

 

[12 Volt Man]

I have been using Tetra Grease for a little over a year. It works well. Just got a sample of Miltec 1, and I put it on a couple of guns last night for the first time.

 

[Top_Notch]

I've been using Breakfree CLP exclusively on my stainless 1911. The owners manual states that the stainless varieties require 'more lube' but nothing else is mentioned. I assume to prevent galling. However, it never states anything about using oil nor grease. I'm curious as to if I'm better off using grease on the rails instead of oil because my gun is in stainless.

Anyone?

 

[DMK]

It's my understanding that oil is a much better lubricant than grease is. The only reasons to use grease are if oil will get thrown off (like on wheel bearings) or will seep out (like on a CCW gun).

I only use grease(Miltec) on the slide rails of my CCW weapons and only when I'm carrying them. I do this because I keep them fairly dry to keep oil from leaking out all over my clothes and to keep gunk from accumulating in the works. Both oil and grease attract dirt, but grease keeps put where it can be wiped off. Oil will pull the dirt with it as it seeps deeper into the gun or out of the gun onto your clothing.

On range guns or when shooting my CCW guns at the range (if not imprompu), I wipe the grease off and generously lube them up with FP-10 CLP. All semiautos get a couple drops of oil on the slide rails.

 

[kimbernut]

Grease/Oil?

I've used Brownell's Action Lube Plus on the rails and lugs,slide lock pin/link, and sear/hammer hooks of my semi-auto pistols and Break-Free CLPon the last inch of the barrel and guide rod for the last three years. Just cycle several times wipe off excess and go.It's worked well for me.

Action Lube Plus also works well on rifle bolt lugs and raceways.

 

[George Hill]

The Cougar is an interesting pistol... I'm using FP-10 on most parts... but in that locking lug area on the barrel, I am using ACTION LUBE PLUS from Brownells. This stuff is the slickest grease I've found. I use it on those lugs and no where else on the Cougar because it's so filthy black and ugly... makes your gun look horrible if you try it on your rails.

 

[stans]

I used to use white lithium grease, but for the past few years I have been using Breakfree CLP. It seems to work very well and parts do not need to be swimming in the stuff to remain slick.

 

[clubsoda22]

a couple drops of miltec oil seem to do the trick for me. I find that grease is just a dirt magnet,

 

[LynnKCircle]

Grease As A Lubricant

(OK, I'll begin by 'fessing up. For years I overlubricated, primarily because I lived in Houston, Texas where corrosion from humidity and sweat was more of a problem than dust causing jams. When I went to the range, I would run a patch through the bore before shooting. All my semi-autos functioned fine, but they WERE a royal witch to clean afterwards, and I imagine I may have created extra slide-to-frame wear from the grit which was trapped..)

Now I've seen the light. My guns function as well as ever, but cleaning is a LOT easier.

Lubrication still includes greasing the slides. I use Tetra because it's easily available from Wally World, but there are a lot of other excellent hi-tech greases available. Pay your money and take your choice. The secret when using any grease is to put it on so lightly you can barely see it -- and THEN use a patch to rub it as totally off as you can. There should be absolutely NO visible grease when you're ready to reassemble. Good hi-tech greases leave enough of a thin film to still provide excellent lubrication, and the film is too thin for unburned powder and other crap to adhere.

I'll also put a drop of MPro-7 on the barrel lugs of my 1911 .45, a small drop in the pin for the internal safety if the gun has one, and a small drop on the trigger mechanism. Then, again, I'll lightly wipe off any excess with a clean patch. (Again, I happen to like MPro-7. There are a lot of excellent hi-tech liquid lubricants out there, too.)

I used to use white lithium grease. It worked ok, but now that I use so little cost just isn't a factor any longer. One tube of Tetra last me a long, long time.

But I still use home-brew Ed's Red for cleaning. It still works better than just about anything else I've tried. However, I will use Mpro7 bore gel once every six months or so when I'm feeling anal about cleaning.

Just my 10 cents. Your mileage may vary.