Discussion in 'Handloading and Reloading' started by 74man, Jan 7, 2022.
They are primarily meant for use on a progressive press where you do not have to pre-lube the cases before running the cases on the press. Saves a step.
I bough one and it worked but did not ring my bell mostly because it did not fit well with the way I load rifle on a progressive press.
Some or all of the die manufacturers have a stuck case removing service, I think. Check with RCBS. I do not feel they would cover a stuck case under warranty as it is not the fault of the die. But, it never hurts to ask.
Remove the decapping stem ...since the base of the case is broke off this should be no problem .....
Then find a fine thread tap that will just grab the brass ....turn it in only enough to catch the brass ....put the end of the tap securely in a vise and pull on the die ...you may have to hit the die with a soft dead impact hammer to get the brass out ....
Be careful as there is a fine line between extracting the brass and scoring the die with the tap (RCBS dies are normally pretty hard) ...
You can also screw the die into the press from under side and use a rod that fits through the stem hole to push the tap and brass out ....but another careful process that can end up with a bent rod ....
Also does anyone here know or have returned a buggered up die after removing a stuck case and do they warranty the die? I couldn't use a case remover because the whole bottom broke off the casing, guess I didn't use enough lube. Just wondering if I should just buy a new die or return the buggered up die and see it they will warranty it. Thanks!!
RCBS has one of the best customer service departments anywhere - it's no questions asked, no documentation and no BS. If it's their product, they stand behind it. That's my personal experience through several decades of dealing with them.
They will repair or replace dies and parts that have been damaged by personal fault and will refuse to accept payment. I've mangled numerous die parts over the years from stuck cases. After admitting such, and asking to be billed, RCBS would not do so and would send the parts at no charge under their warranty.
Outstanding customer service, and for that reason, I buy RCBS products with utmost confidence. And no, I'm not affiliated with RCBS in any way...
A friend of mine bought one of these a long time ago and liked it except for the fact that the lube reservoir attracted debris and bugs.
I like the fact that it lubed the cases as they pass through the tube from the collator to the press. Never did get one though, I can throw away the box lid I use when it gets nasty vs. have to clean a lot of parts in that one.
Me? I’d buy another die if I could find one, then contact RCBS. Better to have 2 than none.
But I don’t reload to save money like many do.
The RCBS lube die DOES NOT LUBE THE CASE NECKS OF BOTTLE NECK CASES... making them almost useless. I took the RCBS .223 lube die off of my .223 Dillon 650 head and put it on my 9mm 650 head where it works brilliantly! I did the same with the .308 lube die moving it to my .45acp head... same results, they work great for straight walled cases but are worthless for bottle neck cases because they don't lube the necks which is the part of the case you most want lubed.
I even bought the largest RCBS lube die and opened up the inside diameter of the aluminum insert and put it on my Dillon 650 50ae head. In all cases the straight wall cases run through the press slicker than snot speeding up the whole reloading process. The powder measure in the 650 head has to be moved over 1 hole which works but was not the originally intended position.
On this .45acp head I had to drill an extra hole in the head so I could move the powder check to the 4th station. The powder check probably isn't necessary for an open case like a .45acp but with the case lube die they move through the progressive press so fast that it is nice to have the extra protection.
The advantages of the lube die on straight walled cases in a progressive press is you don't have to lube the cases before dumping them in the case feeder saving time. The RCBS lube is slicker than the spray on dry lubes I use. The lanoline based spray on lubes work well, are quite slick BUT bugger up the case feeder and case feeder tube making a big mess and the cases will eventually stop moving freely through the case feeder when there is enough bugger buildup. Reloading straight wall cases with a lube die is FAST!... VERY FAST!
45acp head in the front, 9mm head to the right of it. Both with RCBS lube dies (easily spotted due to there brown patina from the lube and black rubber band around the middle of the die).
P.S. Even with the expensive Dillon .223 carbide resizing die I have to lube my .223 cases. I usually use the spray on lanoline based lube sparingly and keep a bottle of alcohol handy to clean the case feeder, case feeder plate and case feeder tube after I am finished for the day. A lube pad works too but can get a little tedious after a while and still leaves lube residue in the case feeder.
When you are lubing your cases with the pad are you making sure to lube the neck as well as the body of the case? When using a pad I always use a finger to push the case neck against the pad. The only time I have gotten stuck cases is when I did not lube the necks. If you miss one neck there is almost always enough lube on the neck part of the die to allow the missed neck to be resized without it sticking. If you miss ALL the necks on a bunch of cases in a row this is when a stuck case usually occurs.
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