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re-bluing price.

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by mljdeckard, Dec 16, 2007.

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  1. mljdeckard

    mljdeckard Member

    Jun 5, 2006
    In a part of Utah that resembles Tattooine.
    My dad has an old Ruger Mk I automatic, (At least that's what I think it is, it's the one without the slide stop,) which looks like um, well, it's been in a leather holster under the seat of the pickup for 40 years. It needs to be re-blued, I was wondering how much I should tell him to anticipate that would cost?

    I'm going to clean it for him first, I'm like the mother who is embarrassed because her child went to the hospital with soiled underwear.
  2. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

    Dec 26, 2002
    I'd check with Ruger for the pricing on a factory re-blue job.
    They offer factory re-blues at $130.00.
    They'll probably be about the cheapest, and almost certainly the fastest.

    For non-factory bluing, figure the price will START around $150.00 for a good job.

    Be aware that there are plenty of "Hackers" around who will offer bluing at lower prices, but the gun comes back looking like someone used a bench grinder on it.

    In other words, either use it as-is, or pay the money to get it done right.
  3. Jim Watson

    Jim Watson Member

    Dec 24, 2002
    Don't forget the Fed-ups airmail ripoff. Ruger charges $30 return shipping and they get a quantity deal; you will surely have to pay more to send it in.
  4. 86thecat

    86thecat Member

    May 31, 2007
    Central WA
    Check out Mel Doyles, St Maries Idaho
  5. Bowwave

    Bowwave Member

    Jun 28, 2007
    Norfolk (deployed Iraq)
    Parkerizing an option?

    This isn't answering your question but I'm taking a chance it may be relevant. I had a 25 year old MK II with similar issues. Rather than have it reblued, I parkerized it. Turned out great and was easy to do. Dissasembled and soaked the pieces in some rust (blue) removal, then did some stove top parkerizing that cost me eight bucks for the parkerizing solution, some steel wool (conditioner) and a decent stainless steel pot and thermometer.
    I went on to moly coat it with an airbrush, but the base was fine just as it was. All it would have needed was an oil finish. Touch ups would be easy also as the solution is reusable. Just degrease and treat again.
    Not an option if you were trying to restore it. I just wanted a functional beater that wasn't too ugly.
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