Rechargeable batteries in your pistol flashlights?

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So, this is a forum for handgun accessories, but my question is about an accessory for an accessory for my handgun, so I hope this flies!

The light came with a cr123, pretty standard.

Anyone use the rechargeables? 'Cause I'm a cheapskate, that's why!

What is the best rechargeable out there? Okay, best at a decent price? I'm a neophyte on electronicals, so please use small words!

I thought I saw a thread on this a couple of months back, but I can't find it, so maybe I imagined it. If I did really see a thread on this, let me know some keywords so I can find it!

Thanks!
 
Two words of warning:

1. Do not try to go cheap on the charger.
2. Do not try to go cheap on the rechargeable batteries.

You do not want to screw around with anything low-quality when rechargeable Lithium Ion batteries are involved.
 
Yeah, I'm kinda buy once-cry once on this kind of stuff. Especially if I'm trying to avoid burning down the house... What brand do you use, and where do you get it?

I already checked energizer, they don't seem to have them listed on their website, and they are my go-to manufacturer.
 
My pistol flashlight uses CR2 batteries. Yeah try finding those in your average store! Most places that carry camera equipment sell them for about $6 each...So yeah I use rechargeable batteries. I found a charger that will charge CR2 and CR123 batteries on Amazon for about $15. I have probably saved myself around $500 or so by switching to a charger and a handful of batteries.
 
I have lots of flashlights and LiIon batteries and quality chargers. That said I would not use rechargeable cells in a weapons light.

My main reason is that the disposable Lithium cells have a very long shelf life as well as excellent resistance to temperature extremes. I know they will work when they are needed. Don't forget, one definition of a flash light is a "container for dead batteries".

If you do go the rechargeable route you might consider setting up a swap out and recharge program so you know that the batteries in the light are in good shape. Also a good idea to have a set or two of consumable cells available to swap into service if needed.
 
That said I would not use rechargeable cells in a weapons light.
... or my home alarm system components.

With few exceptions, in equipment that has to work when called upon, I will not use rechargeables. I use a LOT of NiMH and Li-Ion, more the former than the latter.

Cordless, multiple-handset, home phone system (on a UPS, btw), yes, but I carefully maintain a replacement set of batteries for the time(s) when the power goes out.
 
Aside from what Gary said, also note that the rechargeable CR123 (like) batteries are much less powerful than actual CR123 batteries. You are looking at 600-800 mah versus 1300-1500 mah and that is a huge difference.

If the rechargeables fit in your light (and they do not fit into many lights), then that is great for use for practice and what not, but for crisis management, you are going to want to have the real thing in your pistol flashlight, IMHO.
 
I love rechargeables, have used many technologies, etc.

For 123-powered items, the only real solution is primary cells. LEDs last forever, so it's no longer like the old days of changing out batteries every three days to get a whole 60 lumens from your 6Z. Should not break the bank to use primary cells. Buy a case of 24 or more of any good brand.

Now someone will respond you must get Surefire brand. They have apparently upped their QC, but they do not have a factory, so someone else makes them. Energizer, or Panasonic are fine as they have their name and own factories so do not sell low quality batteries with their name on them. Streamlight? Probably OK due to brand but no idea, pass. Trustfire, Nuon, etc? Just no.
 
I'll add that Candlepower Forums is a great site to learn about all kinds of flashlight and transportation lighting, batteries too.

Here's another site if you wish to learn about batteries. Battery University
 
Aside from what Gary said, also note that the rechargeable CR123 (like) batteries are much less powerful than actual CR123 batteries. You are looking at 600-800 mah versus 1300-1500 mah and that is a huge difference.

Okay, here's where being a genius in batteries would help me out.

the mah rating (off the top of my head I think that is mili-amp-hour?) is basically how much "juice" the battery has, right? Because the rechargeables seem to have a slightly higher voltage than the disposables, which seems like it would actually make it a bit brighter, right? Although it wouldn't have nearly the run time in "on".

If I end up going with the rechargeables it would definitely be rotating/checking often...

I am only checking out the options right now because I recently found my flashlight with a dead battery in it! I don't know if the light got switched on while it was stuffed in a case, or the battery just keeled over, or what, but when I found that I thought... "No bueno! I must change this!" So... I'm looking at options. And always looking to be a cheapskate, I thought I should check out the Li-Ion options. Having them on hand would also give me an excuse to upgrade from my aftermarket-upgrade LED mini maglite for my flashlight that I tote around everyday. :D
 
Okay, here's where being a genius in batteries would help me out.
the mah rating (off the top of my head I think that is mili-amp-hour?) is basically how much "juice" the battery has, right? Because the rechargeables seem to have a slightly higher voltage than the disposables, which seems like it would actually make it a bit brighter, right? Although it wouldn't have nearly the run time in "on".

Difficult to answer without more information on the light in question. Here's why:
Some lights are connected directly to their batteries with no "driver". The driver is a control circuit that feeds power to the LEDs while controlling current flow etc. Often these lights are cheaper end lights.

Lights with drivers on the other hand control the current flow, so a battery with higher voltage does not necessarily result in a brighter light, though it might result in longer run time. They may also offer different levels of output by either limiting current or via pulse width modulation which cuts the on/off time of the light fast enough that you don't notice it.

Some of my lights have multiple output levels and I can tell when to recharge because the "turbo" setting is no brighter than the high setting. The high setting is just as bright as always, but there's not enough voltage to drive turbo mode.
 
So, for simplicity, if your three volt flashlight has three settings, low, high, turbo, turbo might draw all three volts, while your high will operate off two volts, and your low setting will operate on only one? When your battery voltage drops below the required amount it just won't go?

My flashlight doesn't have any varied power settings though (one of the reasons I like it as a pistol light).... How do I tell if it has a driver?

It sure is a good thing my night sights only rely on the decay of radioactive materials! I'll have gotten a new pistol by the time I need new sights!
 
I use rechargeable all the time in my flashlights and other things. Like already said, get good batteries and the charger. Good stuff is worth is weight and expense. Check the reviews of products. If their are less than like 20, then ignore them, could possibly be fake or just not enough out there to make a choice about. Brand can be important, but not always. Sometimes its hard to tell who actually makes something these days.
 
I am with Gary and would stay with standard CR123 for weapons lights. For the reasons he stated.

You can buy good CR123s online for very little money. Unless it's for a rifle that is used regularly shooting pigs etc, on a household firearm you are not likely to have to use it often. For that, the standard cell is reliable, strong, and can be changed out every so often. A spare cell can be kept handy for the extremely unlikely event of it expiring during use.
 
So, for simplicity, if your three volt flashlight has three settings, low, high, turbo, turbo might draw all three volts, while your high will operate off two volts, and your low setting will operate on only one? When your battery voltage drops below the required amount it just won't go?

It's more that the three light levels require different current flow. The voltage has to be high enough to drive that current. Some lights actually use a boost circuit to raise the voltage to drive that current so can maintain their brightness until the cells are really low in voltage.

Cheap lights, think Harbor Freight $3 lights, are usually direct drive. They have a resister in the circuit to control current. They start off bright with new cells, but start to dim as the voltage drops. Eventually it's really dim and you change cells.

A good light, SureFire, Fenix, O-Light etc. start bright and stay pretty much the same until they die.
 
Okay, here's where being a genius in batteries would help me out.

the mah rating (off the top of my head I think that is mili-amp-hour?) is basically how much "juice" the battery has, right? Because the rechargeables seem to have a slightly higher voltage than the disposables, which seems like it would actually make it a bit brighter, right? Although it wouldn't have nearly the run time in "on".

If I end up going with the rechargeables it would definitely be rotating/checking often...

I am only checking out the options right now because I recently found my flashlight with a dead battery in it! I don't know if the light got switched on while it was stuffed in a case, or the battery just keeled over, or what, but when I found that I thought... "No bueno! I must change this!" So... I'm looking at options. And always looking to be a cheapskate, I thought I should check out the Li-Ion options. Having them on hand would also give me an excuse to upgrade from my aftermarket-upgrade LED mini maglite for my flashlight that I tote around everyday. :D

Some flashlights might not be able to handle the additional voltage of the RCR123/16340 batteries which will be 4.2v each off the charger.
 
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