Redding .223 die doesn't want to work in LNL AP

[MattB000]

Seems as though if I lower the sizing die as far as possible (and then some as well), it still doesn't bump the shoulder enough. Using the stoney point tool, I might be able to squeeze .001 out of it, but the instructions recommend at least .002 (as high as .004 for semi-auto, which is the case here). I also have a LNL single stage and I can get it to work on that, but it looks like it actually contacts the die as it cams over. This is using an RCBS shellholder as well, maybe the redding is a little lower.

Does anyone have a set of dies that they've used succesfully in the LNL AP for .223? If so, are you absolutely sure it is bumping the shoulder enough? Also, do you have room to spare, or is it actually touching the shell plate?

 

[Jetsurgeon]

Had this same problem loading 243Win with Hornady Dies and Hornady LNL AP. Talked to the tech guys at Hornady and they think the original full length resizing die was a few thousands to long. They sent me a replacement full length resizing die and that fixed the problem.

Maybe contact Redding?

Also I tried a Redding die set, and didn't have any problems with the Hornady LNL AP.

All the best,
Jeff

 

[snuffy]

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It sounds like you're holding the shell plate .002 AWAY from the bottom of the die? Are you miss-interpreting the instructions about shoulder set-back to mean you have hold that clearance UNDER the die?

Wrong. You normally need the shell holder/plate to contact the die in order to set back the shoulder. A case gauge should be used to set a FL die up. Tolerances sometimes add up to dictate you hold off a bit from the up tight condition, but normally a firm meeting of the shell holder and bottom of die is required.

I know that some carbide pistol dies HAVE to be set up away from the shell holder, to prevent the carbide ring from getting cracked. Not the case for bottle-necked cases.

 

[MattB000]

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I'll make it simple: Screw the die down all the way to the shellplate and it doesn't bump the shoulder more than .001. This is not enough according to the instructions that come with the die. It is also not enough according to the rifle I am using either.

 

[Car Knocker]

If you have your heart set on using the Redding die, an option would be to grind a couple of thousands off the bottom of the die.

 

[RugerOldArmy]

I've never had any problems with Redding dies, and although everybody makes a lemon now and then, it seems like something else is at work here.

Is the LNL shellplate thicker than the average shellplate? Does the bumped brass fit in a case die? Are you sure you don't have neck size die? They make several for .223 bushing and std neck size dies, regular and small base full size dies.

Was this brass fireformed? does the sized brass chamber smoothly? AR? Bolt?

Which series of Redding dies do you have?

 

[MattB000]

I've never had any problems with them either. I would more call this an "incompatibility" then I would a lemon.

Is the LNL shellplate thicker than the average shellplate?

No idea. Don't know what an average shellplate thickness is.

Does the bumped brass fit in a case die?

Not sure what you mean here. I have the wilson gauge and it seems to fit on most (but not all) of them. Best guess would be 9 out of 10 fit. The ones that don't fit stick out the back and don't fall in gracefully.

Are you sure you don't have neck size die?

Yes. Says "223 REM FL 07" on the side.

Was this brass fireformed?

I bought the brass used (LC). The measurements I was referring to in the 1st post were fired out of my gun (although for the 2nd time at least).

does the sized brass chamber smoothly? AR? Bolt?

AR. Seems to chamber alright with most rounds. Certain rounds definetly have a problem. They will chamber and not fire. No evidence of a dent on the primer. Takes an extreme amount of force to eject it with the charging handle.

 

[MattB000]

Missed one... edit seems to not be coming up...

Which series of Redding dies do you have?

Says Series A on the box. Part number #80111.

 

[RugerOldArmy]

Matt,

It sounds like you have a FL die, which should bump the shoulder. From what you've said about the case gauge, it sounds like the FL die needs to be screwed in further.

Is the shellplate screwed down all the way? (This is a progressive, no? My dillon shellplate is screwed in in the center. If it's loose, touching the die may not mean much, since there may be a spring and bearing to rotate the progressive shellplate. Guessing there is some adjustment to a LNL here.) I'll let somebody with better experience with a LNL chime in here, I use a Redding T-7 and a Dillon 550.

I usually adjust the dies similar to what it says in this article, http://www.gunsandammomag.com/blog/blog073107/index.html which also covers neck sizing and is geared to bolt guns, but the process still applies, and on the last page, they discuss autoloaders.

Note what the article says about die vs chamber headspace tolerances. It's one of the reasons I doubt this is a die issue.

Perhaps somebody else can help more.

 

[RugerOldArmy]

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