Refinish or touchup Model 70 stock project?

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Thanks. LoonWulf. I may go poly eventually.

Update for today the Bedding came out okay and Got the stock cleaned up . Prep finished and the Receiver put back together. Had a little time so I went with some Teak Oil to give it a finish for now. IT fully cures in 8 hours. Check it again tomorrow before I reassemble. The teak oil is easy to apply but the finish wasn't uniform without enough coats so it turned out shiny. it will be okay for now.

I think I will post a thread of my journey and pics when I get it finished. Ill post pics here in a few of the stock. Thanks all.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Heres some pics of the stock. Not looking too bad.

 

[LoonWulf]

Looking VERY good, i just went with teak oil on mine as well.

 

[BrocLuno]

Very nice

 

[LoonWulf]

ya know i generally despise pressed checkering, but that actually looks really nice. great work on not rounding the edges on any of it.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

With another wipe down the shiny is gone! Right look but temporary to a poly finish.

First pics...

 

[Sunray]

Free floating a barrel guarantees nothing. Isn't the entire barrel either. Just from the chamber area forward. However, you have to try it to see if a particular rifle likes it or not. A dollar bill should run freely from the end of the stock to the chamber area.
If the rifle doesn't at least shoot consistently, putting a pressure point in isn't a big deal though. A bit of bedding material an inch or so from the end of the forestock is all that's required.
No orbital sanding. Or rotary tools.
Refinishing or finishing stock's is no different than do it to fine furniture. Same products and techniques found in a furniture refinishing book.
"...True Oil, Linseed Oil (longer process)..." Neither. It's boiled linseed oil(BLO) not raw linseed oil(that never fully dries and is a laxative for cows.). BLO gives a flat finish. Isn't particularly long to do either. Put it on with a clean lint free cloth and let it dry for 24 hours. Repeat as required.
Tru-oil is a commercial blend of assorted oil but mostly Tung Oil.
Polyurethane is for cheap, poorly made, particle board/OSB furniture found in Wal-Mart, et al. It's plastic and ruins wood. Scratch it and you have to completely refinish it. Oil finishes just get more oil put on and the scratch goes away
Pure Tung Oil(not Tung Oil Finish) is the one that takes several days. Also gives the nicest finish to decent wood. Comes out shiney when applied properly. That'd be rubbing in several light coats over a minimum of 5 days with 24 hours drying time between coats. Use a clean lint free cloth for every coat too. Do any staining before the first coat of Pure Tung Oil as it keeps everything out. The more coats you rub in, the shinier it gets.

 

[JeffG]

Hey that looks great! Good job!

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Agreed that Free floating guarantees nothing and neither does a bedding job done wrong. Some shooters cant see a difference either way too. The shooter means more than the rifle in most cases.

I did find belter accuracy from free floating the synthetic stock which surprised me. A synthetic stock can cause issues beyond free float. Depending on the stock of course.

For me it made since to make it done while I was doing the stock. Guess I'll see how that comes out. This isn't a competition or bench rest gun anyway and minute of Deer is my goal. Well that and a better looking stock.

Thanks guys!

Still more to do on it but for now it will do. I still have a little more to do on the stock and am weighing final finish options. I also need to be sure the floor plate is functional. Nothing says it isn't but one never knows what quirky things happen when the gun is fired. It passed loading, feeding, and ejection of dummy rounds. Range test coming.

 

[LoonWulf]

Free floating a barrel guarantees nothing. Isn't the entire barrel either. Just from the chamber area forward. However, you have to try it to see if a particular rifle likes it or not. A dollar bill should run freely from the end of the stock to the chamber area.
If the rifle doesn't at least shoot consistently, putting a pressure point in isn't a big deal though. A bit of bedding material an inch or so from the end of the forestock is all that's required.
No orbital sanding. Or rotary tools.
Refinishing or finishing stock's is no different than do it to fine furniture. Same products and techniques found in a furniture refinishing book.
"...True Oil, Linseed Oil (longer process)..." Neither. It's boiled linseed oil(BLO) not raw linseed oil(that never fully dries and is a laxative for cows.). BLO gives a flat finish. Isn't particularly long to do either. Put it on with a clean lint free cloth and let it dry for 24 hours. Repeat as required.
Tru-oil is a commercial blend of assorted oil but mostly Tung Oil.
Polyurethane is for cheap, poorly made, particle board/OSB furniture found in Wal-Mart, et al. It's plastic and ruins wood. Scratch it and you have to completely refinish it. Oil finishes just get more oil put on and the scratch goes away
Pure Tung Oil(not Tung Oil Finish) is the one that takes several days. Also gives the nicest finish to decent wood. Comes out shiney when applied properly. That'd be rubbing in several light coats over a minimum of 5 days with 24 hours drying time between coats. Use a clean lint free cloth for every coat too. Do any staining before the first coat of Pure Tung Oil as it keeps everything out. The more coats you rub in, the shinier it gets.

Your names not Mike is it?
Buddy of mine who makes custom knife handles feels the same way. Quickest way to aggravate him is to suggest ANYTHING besides properly applied tung oil is the correct finish for one of his works of culinary cutlery art. You wanna piss him off (and not see your knives again for 2 years) suggest he just dip them in poly cause itll be faster......