reloading blocks

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Well, after suggesting the Sinclair block, I had to go an order one for m'self.

45Colt is the size, a #6 they say.

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Machined nicely from one piece of hardwood, and it smells like poplar to me. Some folks think poplar is a softwood (in texture, it is), but its classified as a hardwood because its like my old GF, an Irish gal, Angie O'Sperm. But I digress.
The finish is adequate for immediate use, and open to some improvement should one want to fiddle with things a bit. It could use a little better sanding, especially on the ends, but who cares! There is a ink imprint on each side, SINCLAIR #6, and it would sand off easily. I can see a little dark stained "wood finish" being applied then rubbed bare in spots, and the whole block looking very "antique".

In case you're wondering....

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It fits really well under my powder measure. Better than the MTM block in the other picture, which only goes to the 3rd row.
 
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I hate threads like this.... I suggest something, then think, hey I'll try it, and end up falling in love with it.

Just ordered two more blocks from Brownells/Sinclair. Gotta watch the rim diameters for cases, as they list general family of case for one of many uses.
For instance, although they offer 45ACP and 44mag/45Colt.... the 45ACP works great in the 44/45 block, which is what I bought on first go round. Holes are a little deeper, but very workable, nothing wobbles. They offer a .223 block and ... its on order. But for 38/357 they have nothing. Scouring some data, I find that the "PPC family of cartridges" has a rim diameter of .445 while a 38/357 has a rim diameter of .440. Sounds like a match made in heaven.

At any rate, and only judging by pictures, the blocks are a bit nicer finished, more refined than the Midway blocks.

I've got two MTM blocks ( plastic ). They're just klunky compared to the wooden blocks. I can hold my hand under a whole wood block and it just works out better with my powder drop. More sure, more steady and exact than trying to hold the MTM plastic block. Yes... the MTM is "universal". Who gives a fat rat's patootie. The wood blocks are smaller, thinner, fit in my limited spacer better. I like 'em.

Didn't take any pictures but I did manage to sand the block I have a little smoother, apply some stain which brought out the grain. The whole thing is a pleasure to see and use. ZERO complaints.
 
When I started this hobby I attempted to make my own. I wasted a few hours and they turned out horrible. Found some mtm blocks locally for less than $10 that will do multiple calibers that work great. Never looked back and saved the embarrassment of people asking what I I attempted to make if they were ever seen.
 
I gave some thought to making some blocks, but before I used up any of my more special pieces of hardwood, I figured I should use one to load with.

And I’m glad I did! I saved wood and wasted time.

From my test yesterday I have concluded single loading is better for me. Having an entire rack of cases full of powder saves me no time, and even though I didn’t drop the whole thing this time, it was still to ungainly for me and the way I do it.

I had a slight dusting of TAC over the block that came with my Hornady kit. How ever they are held to the measure is not quite closed enough. I kept tapping the measure as the case mouth would catch then go into the dispensing tube and settle on the neck with a bump. I didn’t like that.
The Bushmaster cases being tall and still so large at the mouth caused some leaning cases and fiddling to get them to the measure correctly.

Darn it! They look so neat, all lined up like I’m actually an organized human! Much more debonair than my containers of Cascade dishwashing packets.
But it’s better for me to have a bin of hundreds of prepped cases and charge one and seat a bullet, then place it in an ammo container or magazine. I am every bit as efficient and if any single dad distraction happened I don’t have thirty cases open with powder.

Maybe I still make some and sell them. Maybe they become table coasters.;)
 
I used a 1x6 pine board and used a 5/8" paddle type wood drill. Draw intersecting lines for center points and keep 1/2 or more between holes. I made one with 50 holes. To keep things simple, I drilled completely through the board and later glued a piece of card board to the bottom. Works Great.
 
I compromised in the middle and do 6 or 12 at a time rather than 1 or 50.

I tried doing that. I figured setting up all the dies on a single stage press multiple times wouldn't be good for consistency. I usually do batches of 100. I prime and expand the case mouth usually in one step until I finish. After priming all cases are set into the loading blocks primer side up. When charging each case it gets put back into the block and a bullet is set on top of each filled case as I go. If something interrupts me I can easily look at the block(s) and know exactly where I am. I seat and crimp in two stages. When a bullet is seated I replace it into the block bullet side up when all bullets are seated and I start crimping I place crimped finished loads bullet side down.

It took me a little bit of getting used to it but if I do get interrupted during any part of any stage I can easily determine what is going on and where to pickup from where I left off.
 
Having computer issues(edits). Vac hose attachment on drill press column;

2 1/2" std muffler clamps fit perfectly on vac hose,don't tighten it.... the saddle part "clicks" into the ribs on the hose. Cam lock on column came from the seat stem lock on a bicycle. Adjustable in 3 axis WAY faster than typing this post!!!
 
I have some delrin I got from the scrap pile at work for almost free. I have been thinking about a couple custom blocks. The drill through and glue idea is much easier than a 1 piece design. I just wonder how well it would take a routered edge or if it would bust apart.

Use high speeds when cutting Delrin. Even when milling it with regular end mills or fly cutters, it machines much better at high speeds. I would crank the speed up on the Bridgeport mills when ever I had to cut Delrin.
 
Having computer issues(edits). Vac hose attachment on drill press column;

2 1/2" std muffler clamps fit perfectly on vac hose,don't tighten it.... the saddle part "clicks" into the ribs on the hose. Cam lock on column came from the seat stem lock on a bicycle. Adjustable in 3 axis WAY faster than typing this post!!!
Parents got me a walmart exclusive shopvac, the hose is in between the two standard sizes :(
 
Finished this one yesterday...

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I will likely send it to my son in Alaska.
His primary rifle round is 308 Win. so it was made with that in mind

This one I finished today.110 holes on both sides.
Large holed side is for my primary cartridge, .44 Rem. Mag.
Smaller holed side is for them pesky* 380 auto. and 9mm.

upload_2020-9-25_18-59-0.png

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* Speaking of "pesky", glad not reloading 25 or 32 auto.
How does one handle those little ones? :uhoh:
 
Here's a few. I try to find uses for "drops" as much as possible.... vs chucking them in the furnace.

Drill press is a late 40's Walker Turner,powered downfeed 1200 model. With a Heinrich quick vise. We've got a bunch of old W/T wood equipment.... it's my favorite label.
View attachment 943957 View attachment 943959
Finished this one yesterday...

View attachment 944813

I will likely send it to my son in Alaska.
His primary rifle round is 308 Win. so it was made with that in mind

This one I finished today.110 holes on both sides.
Large holed side is for my primary cartridge, .44 Rem. Mag.
Smaller holed side is for them pesky* 380 auto. and 9mm.

View attachment 944815

View attachment 944816

* Speaking of "pesky", glad not reloading 25 or 32 auto.
How does one handle those little ones? :uhoh:
View attachment 944991 View attachment 944990 The bottom photo posted by member hps1 inspired me to copy the design for making paper cartridges for black powder revolvers. Loading blocks that double as cartridge boxes For the man with time on his hands.

I see I'm going to have to step up my game on loading blocks.
 
Tightgroup,if you have a lathe.... making handles for your gun chore files,screwdrivers,and accessory out of nice wood is dang cool too:cool:.

Pen "blanks" are a bit too small,look for pool cue blanks. A nice screwdriver handle will be a nominal 6" long so,look for blanks in 12,18,and 24" lengths. Furrels can be just about anything but if you use steel tubing you get to "blue" or fake color case them. I also made a small handle set for "allen" socket cap screws. Take a regular,long allen wrench and cut the short end or side off with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. They're just smaller versions of the other handles. A pen blank might work for these?

Good luck with your project.
 
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