New to reloading huh?
Well, start well BELOW the highest recommended standards in your reloading manuals . . . and make sure your manuals are the latest issues. Sometimes power evolves through the years in formulations.
Frankly, for defensive handgun loading, I ONLY load light loads so I can practice cheaper AND reduce the stress on my handguns (allowing them to last longer)!
--For full-house, super-power loads for defense in a handgun? I ONLY use FACTORY-LOADED ammo to prevent any possible lawsuits that might be launched against me in civil court later if I have to put down a BG.
No way would I carry handloads for self defense! In court you don't want to be accused of loading really hot stuff ahead of time so you could INTENTIONALLY inflict "more" harm or body destruction against a future victim!
A sharp lawyer, the wrong jury, and devastating injuries due to your "custom" bullets loaded to inflict "greater" harm than "police bullets" . . . and you might be paying damages to that scumbag or his decendants . . . for the rest of your life!
--For full-house loads in a hunting rifle round? Again, generally I don't. Most everyone who is an experienced loader will concur that the best bullet accuracy and performance RARELY, if ever, comes at maximum velocity. My .270 will shoot tiny 3/4" groups . . . at 150 yards from the bench . . . if I do my part . . . and accuracy to your exact "Point-Of-Aim" is the most important thing, both in rifle and handgun performance.
T.
PS: You do NOT need +P+ loads to get the job done. WELL PLACED bullets at the normal velocities will do the job just fine . . . and allow faster follow-up shots if the combat is protracted. Hard kicking loads might allow you to be shot several times YOURSELF before you can bring the barrel back down on a BG.
PPS: I've seen a couple of Glocks blow up like this in matches. Then again . . . any handgun can get ruined by shooting ammo that's too hot.
Slow down your bullets to the speed they are designed to run . . . and your gun will last a lot longer!
