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rem 700 aftermarket Bolt knob questions

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Detritus, Feb 2, 2012.

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  1. Detritus

    Detritus Member

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    I am in need of guidance and advice on how best to proceed with a project i've been thinking of for some time.

    I have a remington 700 SPS-Varmint that I wish to put a "Tactical/Target" style extended bolt knob on, and since I have a desire to work toward becoming a gunsmith, I naturally have questions.

    First (but NOT most important) what if any pros and cons do the various makers (Badger,PTG, Surgeon, etc) have over one another? does anyone who's used/installed more than one brand/style have a strong recomendation??

    Sencond, I've been looking the various How-to threads i've found scattered about on the web, Most deal with the Badger knob but since pretty much all of the knobs i've found use the same 5/16"-24 thread size, the how-to should be universal. so far all of these discussions fall into three categories,
    1. "Send it to Smith X " in my case this defeats part of my purpose in doing this project.
    2. a written, unillistrated, step by step, but many times vague description "I did Steps A, B, C, and D"
    3. an Illistrated version of the above showing most but not all of the steps taken, the most common ommision being the reshaping of the square stub to round so that it can be threaded. Also almost none of them mention the dimensions of the stub prior to being reshaped.

    Can anyone help with a possible link to a True step by step illistrated how-to? Or have any other helpful suggestions on where to look or how to proceed because i REALLY don't wanna muck this up so bad I have to replace the bolt!

    Of possible note: except for over the summer I do have access to the machine shop at the local Community college (currently in the program) and the majority of the work i'd do would be performed at that location for now. the available tools, mills, lathes are admitedly somewhat basic but the instructor knows, understands, and accomdates as well as he can my personal reasons for being there.

    anyway it's half past midnight here, i'm tired and frustrated, and I have work in the morning..

    Thank you for your time and any advice, help etc you choose to share,
     
  2. Howard Roark

    Howard Roark Member

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    I've done a bunch of bolt knob work over the years. The way I do it is to solder on a stud to screw the new knob onto.

    First the factory bolt knob is cut in half and ground flat. Then a 1/4" hole is drilled in the center of the flat and a stud is silver soldered on. I wrap a rag dipped in water to keep from overheating the joint where the handle is attached. The flux is filed back down to the origional flat metal and the knob is screwed down and traced. I then grind down to the mark using a bench grinder and then use progressively finer grit in a Dremel to get the desired profile and finish.

    I use Oxpho-Blu or simular to reblue the bare metal and make my own knobs out of 3/4" aluminum.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. A-FIXER

    A-FIXER Member

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  4. Detritus

    Detritus Member

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    saw that, really liked the look of it, and really do wish I had the $200 available anytime soon. now if someone knows where I can rent one (or is in the houston area and willing to rent/lend theirs out for a week or so) I'd very happily try that route.

    the routes I've thought about going so far, have been as follows

    1. get the appropriate sized annular cutter (the "slugger" in the PTG kit) and carefully setting it and the bolt up in a mill or drill press, and cutting the shank that way.
    2. drill and tap the inside of a 5/16-24 stud to accept a smaller Diam. stud that coiuld be threaded into a drilled adn tapped hole in the bolt handle. and locktite the two studs together
    3. talking to one of the welding instructors/students about getting the aformentioned 5/16-24 stud tig-welded

      if any or all of these sound like a particularly good or bad idea, please do let me know. I'm kind of feel like i'm stumbling around half blind with this, because i don't really have anyone local to bounce ideas off of.

      again thank you for your time and any advice you wish to share :)
     
  5. texas chase

    texas chase Member

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    howard, pretty nice job there. do you make/machine the knob?
     
  6. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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    I wouldn't.
    Use Blue Lock-Tight on both the stud/handle and stud/knob threads.

    If the stud breaks off, you will want to be able to get it back out without re-machining it..

    Also, the Remington bolt handle is induction brazed to the bolt body.
    If you happen to get it hot enough to melt the joint welding it, it will fall off.

    rc
     
  7. Howard Roark

    Howard Roark Member

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    I do make my own knobs. Most of them have been for highpower shooters and the design seems to work for us. One of the recipients is on the US Palma Team so I guess it works OK.
     
  8. DANS40XC

    DANS40XC Member

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    Detritus-
    A mechanically inclined machinist/tool maker will manufacture the jig/fixture to accomplish the job.
    Those who need step by step illustrations or You Tube videos are lost & should seek professional assistance.

    OEM Rem bolt handles have inclusions/imperfections.
    Timing the handle for primary extraction,lightening & timing the OEM firing pin will ensure 2 finger bolt manipulation w/o the need to add a TactiKool base ball bat to the handle.
     
  9. Detritus

    Detritus Member

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    DANS40XC-
    I feel a need to answer to some of your comments.

    I am not a machinist or toolmaker. I am a person who is spending a portion of his time and hard earned money trying to learn at least some of those skills. and at this time, for reasons not needing discussion here, I have the desire but lack the time/amount of shop access needed to make the aforementioned bolt jig.

    That being so, and choosing to do this project for the reasons listed below I came here to ask advice.
    • because, lacking specialty tools, doing so DOES require me to improvise and think a little bit on how to do it. I ask for tips oppinions so that i can see how OTHERS solved the same issues and can gain insight.
    • I just want to! The rifle currently does not need an extended knob as it has no issues with hard bolt lift etc. I just like the look of the teardrop bolt knob
    • it's a learning experience

    maybe this will clarify why I am persuing this in the manner that I am.

    I do not know if the intent of your post was to be dismissive and discouraging, or if that's simply how i took it (you;re first paragraph came across to me at least as "Figure it out yourself or give up"). then again this week hasn't been the greatest and maybe i'm just a little touchy, if so my appologies.
    frankly my veiw is that I can only learn how to do the things i wish to if i actually DO them.
    Again what i was looking for in starting this thread was advice and/or insight from those who'd already done the modification.
     
  10. Old Dog Man

    Old Dog Man Member

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    Bolt Knob

    You can get what you need at (www.brownells.com) they offer several types of bolt knobs. Some thread on, and some using a stud to solder into the bolt handle. The solder one will probably fit your needs and expierence best. Good Luck
     
  11. Detritus

    Detritus Member

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    realized i'd never come back to this thread and posted my results.

    Pulled the Firing pin assembly out and took the bolt body in to class with me pretty much the next week after my last reply to this thread. and like alot of folks who've posted about doing this, i forgot to take pics of the mod in progress :eek:

    Milled the bolt knob down to about 3/8-7/16" square (basicly i milled all sides of it flat and opposite sides paralell, and no smaller than required to "get rid of the knob"), then ground it down to a round profile a little larger than 5/16" with a bench grinder and belt sander. wound up with an inadvertent taper in the stud, with the tip of the outboard end winding up closer to 1/4" than 5/16. So i decided to see If it was "close enough" and ran a 5/16"-24 die over the new stub. was rather surprised at how freaking soft the steel turned out to be! the tap Die cut in to the handle like it was butter.

    checked the New knob for fit, took it home and Blue Locktited it. Been happy with it ever since.

    I need to refinish the area of the hadle just above the new knob and haven't gotten around to it yet. It's such a small area that i don't want to bother with getting something like Duracoat or anything (at least not till i'm ready to do teh whole rifle). and I want to keep the Matte finish look. what do you guys suggest? all i can think of are a few options like Krylon (primer and Grill paint)

    8174065953_4cec65f5f1_s.jpg 8174099146_61d762c322_s.jpg 8174101350_b8fab929a5_s.jpg 8174070555_84ef2fe090_s.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2012
  12. CharlieDeltaJuliet

    CharlieDeltaJuliet Member

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    Great job. I have one I need to do, you just inspired me to finally work on my own and do this to my newest M700.
     
  13. dubbleA

    dubbleA Member

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    Here are a few I have done recently.

    knobsav.jpg

    pineappleknob.jpg

    mkIIknob.jpg


    40Xconversionknob.jpg
     
  14. Detritus

    Detritus Member

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    out of curiosity what did you use in place of the primer in those inletted caseheads? I do assume that those aren't live...
     
  15. dubbleA

    dubbleA Member

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    I keep several large and small primers in a jar of oil, it makes them inert.
     
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