Rem 700 upgrade

[Mowgli Terry]

Don't care about arguing with you. You need to measure twice and cut once. Get some real world figures before you jump into the deep end of the pond to learn swimming. This means adding up $ for stock,barrel, and gunsmithing work. Might do well to check on prices of having a barrel ready for a suppressor.Also study on the desirable calibers. I'd not do back flips ups to use the long action. All this is based on my experience having built up rifles. Think twice about what happening here. Just a suggestion.

Addendum: Check Post #8 on this thread.

 

[Varminterror]

Building any custom gun isn’t cheap. Building a custom AND buying a donor is more expensive than building on a firearm you already own.

I have multiple rifles which started life as factory rifles but look very differently today, and a few of them, by design, can be reverted back to factory appearance in under an hour. I have never paid a gunsmith more than $100 to set back a barrel during a blueprinting job.

Both of the smiths I use charge $300 for thread, chamber, crown, muzzle thread, and install barrels on a blank. I pay $200 at either of them to setback and rechamber barrels. Either charge $100 to set back a barrel to reestablish headspace when paying for a blueprinting job. $50 at one, $75 at the other to thread for muzzle device.

Custom rifles aren’t cheap, but it doesn’t make any sense to me for you to recommend he buy a donor rifle when he has one in hand.

 

[Mowgli Terry]

I stand by what I say. Best wishes and good luck.

 

[bob97]

Yes, 1/2-28 is fine up to .30 cal magnums. Do it all the time.

If one is going to be putting a ton of rounds down range, the hoop stress causing the muzzle to bell a bit over time is a concern, but then, someone who will be firing thousands of rounds at paper targets isn't likely to be doing so from a skinny sporter barrel anyway.

As a general rule, your barrel OD at point of threading needs to be .080" larger than thread major diameter to ensure axial suppressor alignment. If it's under that, you need a shoulder. If your barrel measures at least .640", making a shoulder for the suppressor to run 5/8-24 is an option. Need .580" diameter to do 9/16-24 with a shoulder.

This was a .338 WM with a barrel OD of just .645" I did for a guy. 5/8-24 with a blended shoulder

View attachment 796839

I am confused by this. Min major diameter for 5/8-24 is .616 according to my machinery handbook. +.080 would be almost .700.

I havent put a mic on my barrel but its very close to 5/8. Its academic if i can cut 1/2-28, but id like to understand.

 

[bob97]

I did shoot it on sunday. It is definitely serviceable as-is for hunting. As i said i do hunt but not a lot. I need to get it supressed. Thats really whats lacking for making it more fun to shoot.

And the trigger advice is well-received.

 

[MachIVshooter]

I am confused by this. Min major diameter for 5/8-24 is .616 according to my machinery handbook. +.080 would be almost .700.

I havent put a mic on my barrel but its very close to 5/8. Its academic if i can cut 1/2-28, but id like to understand.

.640" is the minimum to ensure that I can cut bore concentric 2A 5/8-24 threads and still have enough shoulder to seat a custom collar that will have an OD >.700" to square the suppressor.






I can do them with a little less (down to .630"), but those end up having a second step.

 

[bob97]

Ok thanks. I wondered if it was a loose collar. Do you put loc-tite on it to hold it in place?

 

[MachIVshooter]

Ok thanks. I wondered if it was a loose collar. Do you put loc-tite on it to hold it in place?

Rocksett, and as much torque as I can apply without spinning the barrel in the chuck. After installation they are profiled and trued to the bore. They're considered a permanently installed part; can be taken off, but would be damaged in the process.