Rem Oil any good ?

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MR.G

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Is Rem Oil any good ? Seems thin, but the can says that it contains Teflon.
 
I use it to lube my press. The weapons all get FP-10.

IMHO, Rem Oil is not a high pressure or high quality gun lubricant.
 
Rem Oil was used to treat my 870 when I first bought it. I try and give it a cleaning/treatment every 6 months regardless if I use it or not.

A guy that just bought his first pistol was sold Rem Oil as a cleaning and lubricating all-in-one solution. Pretty sure the guy that suggested that has some pretty abused firearms!

Hoppe's #9 or Shooter's Choice for frequent cleanings here. A Miltec treatment every now and again.
 
True Story regarding Breakfree CLP

I was working on changing the oil in my newest acquistion in the auto department, and I literally had the oil change from hell. The drain plug would not come off. We're talking about the car was rocking on the jackstands a few millimeters when I was grunting like an ape with an AK47 trying to get the damn plug off. After spending 15 minutes under there with my 7/8 craftsman combo wrench, I was ready to get in my other car, go to Sears and buy a breaker bar to get this thing off. Then I realized that an 18" breaker bar wouldnt get decent leverage with the clearance under the car.

*lightbulb comes on*

I went into my house, opened the gun cleaning kit and took out my 12 oz can of CLP. Slid under the car, and gave two squirts of CLP on the plug where it met the oilpan. Not soaking it, but just enough to lube the bolt of an AR15. Put the wrench on the plug and mumbled a curse to the Gods of drainplug angst - one twist took it off.

I proceeded to order $35 of breakfree in 12 ounce cans.
 
Use CLP on my handguns. Use Rem-Oil on my 870. Always had good luck with Rem-Oil on my shotguns and they were put through some nasty weather.
 
I use both CLP and Remoil. Good results with both...just remember that CLP is Cleaner, Lubricant, and Protector...so your gun may be dirty a month after you clean it ;)
 
What Mr Mysterious said. I consider Rem-oil far superior to say, the stuff in the cheap clening kits, but not as good as CLP. Used it before the Army, Got my Arms Room, ditched the LSA for CLP, (you can order the gallon jugs in the Army:D ), used it exclusively in the Arms Room after that. It is my first choice, and I usually keep a couple of the 2/3 oz. bottles in my range bag to give away.
 
I've found Rem-Oil to be a good lubricant and protector in mild to cold climates. However, in hot, humid climates, I've found it's just too thin to stay put - it evaporates, or worse (if you've used too much) runs all over your holster and clothes. I have some still, and use it mainly in fall and winter for flooding hard-to-reach areas (e.g. inside trigger groups, etc.) after first flushing them out with cleaner. I then let the part drain overnight, wipe off any excess on the outside, and reinstall it. For this application, at this time of year, Rem-Oil works well for me.
 
I prefer fp-10 and lots of others over rem oil.

Ditto that! I bought some Rem Oil thinking it'd be good to spray on gun parts if I cleaned them with brake cleaner, but so far I'm using FP-10 only and man it's good stuff! I use FP-10 on the Dillon also and get an extra 300 rounds per hour!*








*well not really but it works goood! :D
 
Moly Lube

For the last year or so I have been using spray on dry moly lube in my pistols slides and actions (and on the nipple on my BP rifles and pistols). Seems to work quite well, no problems at all and doesn't attract crud like RemOil. I use CLP on the barrels.

No thread highjack, but has anyone see any problems with dry moly lube?
 
Tool kit approach for me (right tool for right job).

I do like Rem Oil for light lubrication jobs and a bit on rag for protective duties, never had problem with either use. Of course I don't crawl around in salt marshes for months without cleaning my gun either ;)

I'd rather have a tube of Rem-Oil than a gallon of CLP. Breakfree just has a nasty smell to me and prefer dedicated lubricants and cleaners.
 
Exactly what Preacherman said.

I have gone to Tetra Gun grease on slides, op rod contact points, things that move etc. Seems to work aok so far. Still lube the bore with Rem Oil.

S-
 
I will admit the one thing that I realy like Rem-oil for is the outside finish of blued and polymer framed/stocks. It leaves them looking great...just spray a little bit on a rag and wipe it down...it makes them look as good as new. Just don't use too much, because it will 'sweat' off over time.

My old Remmington 522 Viper which I had not shot for ~5 years from the time when I was 17-22 was last cleaned and given a little coat of Remoil when I was 17. When I picked the rifle up at my parents a couple of years ago it had no rust or corrosion and was in really great shape. This was prior to me finding CLP in the Army...and still I use remoil on the outside surfaces because I like what it does and it does not leave an oily film.

So basically when I clean I use Remoil on the outside. CLP in the barrel. A very light coating of remoil in the trigger assembly. Remoil as a coating on the outside of the slide and the outside of the barrel. The rails will get a dab of CLP, and depending on any bad areas they'll get CLP.

In the military it it entirely different...we usually store the weapons dry or with an extremely light coat of CLP since the arm vaults are climate contolled. We don't leave a lot of CLP on the weapons since they don't appear as cleaned when they are inspected...and they will often be dirty from the C in CLP when they are removed from their racks.

We also do a lot of things that wouldn't normally be done to personally owned firearms. We bathe the 'guns' (M240, M249) with carb or brake cleaner and then use hot water on them. This is followed by WD40 to displace the water.

Many of us bring cordless dremels into the field and use that to clean bolts. It really makes quick work of the bolts on the M4/M16's.

Then wthen it comes time to actually throw lead downrange, we apply CLP pretty liberal on the bolts of the M4/M16s and coat the inside of the 'guns' pretty heavy. CLP does stay in place pretty good when burning through a couple thousand rounds at a time ;)

The one problem with CLP and the Army is that it is used as a catchall. I think the LP portions are GREAT, but the cleaning is extremely slow. Hoppes No9 works much better to remove carbon...but then again CLP from an infantry mans standpoint is pretty nice for the simple fact that there is only one little bottle for me to carry with me.
 
Nother FP-10 user chiming in. been using it to clean the bores on my revolvers and last time i fired the rossi i fired 400 rounds of lead reloads. all of the lead in the bore came out with 12-15 brush strokes and 1 patch. Amazing. it was definately the FP-10. the rossi is stainless and i hadn't coated the whole pistol before shooting just the bore. turned out the bore was the easist part to clean.
 
Carbon 15,

I've seen another test virtually identical to yours where CLP was the winner.

However, its moot. I want my gun oil to do a lot more than protect against rust.
 
I use Breakfree CLP myself, but I really cannot tell the difference between it and Remoil other than the smell. Also heard Breakfree can cause cancer through extended exposure.
 
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