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Remington 700 Accurizing

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by deadly50bmg, Oct 27, 2005.

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  1. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    Hello guys, This is my first post here at THR. I look forward to getting to know you and to gain knowledge from all of you experienced shooters.

    The gun that I am working on right now is, you guessed it, a Rem 700. It's a PSS model in 300 Rem Ultra Mag. I have decided to install a muzzle brake on this weapon for obvious reasons...starts to sting a little after a couple of boxes. I have decided to go with Armalite's AR-30 Muzzle brake. Anyone with experience know whether or not this will be a good choice? Also as far as accurizing goes I have not done anything to this gun yet. What would you guys suggest as being some of the most important things to do to start with?

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. dakotasin

    dakotasin Member

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    every remington i own has responded very well to floating then bedding. after that, before that, whatever, tune the trigger. use a stout bedding material - steel bed or whatever. pillars are a good idea, too.

    is the gun a j-lock model? how about the recoil pad (a brake is a very last resort for me).

    avoid a rifle basix trigger. avoid the tubbs firing pin unless you are truly going to be shooting at or beyond 1000 yards.

    lap your scope rings in, bed the base to the receiver, and make sure your scope and mounts are high quality units. should be good to go. all told, you'll need to invest an hour of your time and around $20...
     
  3. USSR

    USSR Member

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    deadly,

    One thing you have to understand is, spending money on the Remington factory barrel (by adding a muzzle break) is a waste of money. The barrel costs Remington less than $20 to produce, and it will be shot-out by the time you reach the 1,000 mark. After you have shot the barrel out, you can have it rebarreled and the action trued by a good smith who can then add a muzzle break to it. Since this is a PSS model, it will not have the J-Lock on it. At this point, I would simply recommend that you have the trigger adjusted/lightened, learn to shoot it, and if you don't have a reloading setup, get one. Reloading for the 300 RUM will do several things for you. First, it will allow you to produce ammo for less cost than factory ammo, thereby allowing you to shoot more. Second, It will allow you to produce ammo that will be more accurate than factory ammo. And lastly, it will allow you to download (as in use less powder) ammo so that you don't feel the "sting" quite so much. Good luck.

    Don
     
  4. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    Update

    Thanks Dakota, As far as the trigger goes, I still have the stock one in and I am still waiting on CanJar to get the steel in to make the 700 triggers. I have been on the waiting list now for 8 months. I hear that this will be a great set trigger. Anyone with knowledge on these?? Also for the optics I have the leupold Mk4 straight 16X, Badger 20MOA base and Leupold MK4 Rings. I believe that we are ok on the optics setup. Heres the problem, I know nothing about accurizing, so when you say to bed it I know what your talking about but dont know how or where to bed it. also what bedding material is suggested? When you say to lap something what are you talking about? sorry for my ignorance but everyone has to learn somehow.

    Thanks guys.
     
  5. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    Reloading

    I do reload as well. One reason that I like to reload though is not to download to decrease the sting. On the contrary I actually shoot the highest pressure loads I can with the optimum bullet weight to achieve the Ballistic Coefficient that I am going for. I am planning on having Williamson Precision Gunsmith to install this break for me. I hear they are the best in town. Should I wait and shoot this one out first??? :confused: You say that it will be shot out in only 1000 rounds or so? Why is that? I figured that this barrell would last thousands of rounds.

    Thanks for the input
    Much appreciated
     
  6. USSR

    USSR Member

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    deadly,

    As for why your barrel will last for barely 1,000 rounds, just look at the ballistics of the 300 RUM:eek: Barrel life is the price you pay for pushing heavy bullets at high velocity. You don't get something for nothing.;)

    Don
     
  7. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    Good Point Don, Thanks for the input. I have never bought a barrel before, How much should I be looking to spend for This same barrel? Should I go with a better barrel that the factory PSS Barrel?
     
  8. USSR

    USSR Member

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    Okay, while there may be some more than I am listing here, here are some of the biggies:

    High Quality barrel chambered by a high quality smith - You get neither with a factory barrel.
    Trued Receiver - Close enough is the spec's the factory uses, while a good smith will make everything square and true.
    Pillar Bedded Stock - Not done on factory rifle stocks, but having this done by a smith allows you to torque your receiver bolts and improves accuracy.
    Good Trigger - Most factory triggers can be adjusted (although the manufacturer say don't do it) by a smith to a light, crisp letoff.

    Also, since your scope is the interface between you and your rifle, a high quality scope, base, and rings go a long way towards having an accurate rifle.

    Don
     
  9. USSR

    USSR Member

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    A high quality SS barrel by this country's best barrelmakers will cost you $275-350, depending upon options. Figure about $300 to have the barrel chambered and action trued, and you are looking at about $650. Bedding will run about $100-150. Having a smith adjust your trigger, perhaps $30. Yeah, it get's expensive, that's why I won't have a barrel-burner like the 300 RUM;)

    Don
     
  10. Henry Bowman

    Henry Bowman Senior Member

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    Names please.

    I have a similar set-up chambered in .30-'06. It has a tapered barrel and I know I will want a heavy or fluted one. As I understand it, the pressures are very similar to that of a .308. I've not yet done any accurizing. Should I consider replacing the barrel on this one later, or better to just sell and buy one with the barrel I want?
     
  11. BusMaster007

    BusMaster007 Member

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    If the rifle is a PSS, it's a POLICE model. I've got one in .308.
    The stock is made by H-S Precision and has a full-length BED already in it.

    Before you dump a lot of $$$ on modifications, try a few simpler things first.

    1. Get the Remington 'R3' buttstock pad, made by Sims Vibration Labs, or the SVL model to fit the PSS buttstock dimensions. It should tame quite a bit of the recoil.

    2. Have a knowledgable gunsmith adjust your factory trigger. It can be made to behave nicely...

    3. Look into the JP Enterprises muzzle brake, called the Recoil Eliminator. It's probably less to buy and install than the big unit for the ArmaLite guns.

    All the other stuff will cost you BIG BUCK$.
    The stuff I mentioned won't kill your wallet nor will it take very long to have done.

    Good Luck!:D
     
  12. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    That is what I thought! The alluminum block that the receiver sits on is the bed? Great! Instead of getting the trigger work done I am getting a CanJar trigger. Should be able to set it to a fraction of an ounce. :what:
     
  13. BusMaster007

    BusMaster007 Member

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    Some additional information you might find helpful ---

    Remington Law Enforcement page:
    http://www.remingtonle.com/index.htm

    http://www.remingtonle.com/rifles/700p.htm

    [​IMG]
    The standard Model 700P features an H-S PrecisionĀ® composite stock reinforced with Du Pont Kevlar and fiberglass.
    They'll stay dimensionally stable in any weather and under the worst tactical situations.
    The stock is laid up around an aircraft-grade aluminum bedding block that runs up the entire length of the receiver.
    It has a textured, black, non-reflective finish and comes with sling swivel studs.


    And, from the FAQ page:
    Q: What is the difference between the metal finish on the sporting goods guns and police guns?

    A: A standard "blue" finish is offered in both lines, however, the "matte" finish on the sporting goods guns is a bead blast bluing.
    The "matte" finish on the police guns is a parkerization process. Parkerization is 60% more durable than bead blast bluing.


    :)
     
  14. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    I'll be honest with you guys, The reason why I want AR-30 brake is: first because its really effective...but most importantly, It will look wicked. :fire: . to each his own in this matter i guess:cool:
     
  15. USSR

    USSR Member

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    Henry,

    I'm partial to cut-rifled barrels, so the ones I'd recommend are Krieger, Obermeyer, and Mike Rock. Other high quality barrelmakers are Schneider, Broughton, Lilja, PAC-NOR, and Lothar Walther. Some barrelmakers are also gunsmiths (like Krieger) and will true your receiver, and chamber and install your barrel, while others will only provide you with the barrel. Picking the gunsmith to do your work if probably the crucial part of the whole process. Gunsmiths I would recommend are George Gardner at G.A. Precision, Terry Cross of KMW, and Jack Krieger of Krieger. Yes, pressures are similar (62k psi for .308, 60k psi for .30-06), but factory .30-06 is seriously downloaded due to some weak action designs still out there. If you want a quality, heavy contour barrel on a .30-06, the only way you will get it is to have it put on yourself. While the .30-06 makes a fine long-range Tactical/Target Rifle, it is strictly a build-your-own and handloading proposition.

    Don
     
  16. Henry Bowman

    Henry Bowman Senior Member

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    Thanks. I got the original basic rifle for a song. So I'll just build on its receiver.

    I have a gunsmith friend who does special work for SF and other military snipers. I trust him to do the work. You can see some of his stuff at http://www.mccannindustries.com, especially the MIRS scope mount.
     
  17. USSR

    USSR Member

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    Good luck, Henry. And if you want some load info once you get it built, just let me know.

    Don
     
  18. halvey

    halvey Member

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    A recoil pad and lightened trigger pull done by a smith should be less than $100. Start there first.

    Honestly, I'd put the money into ammo and range time before trying to do anything other than above.

    And even before you do that, get a good reloading setup.
     
  19. deadly50bmg

    deadly50bmg Member

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    By a good reloading setup what exactaly do you mean? I have a Lee press right now??? any reccomendations on a good book on precision reloading?
     
  20. ALS

    ALS Member

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    First the PSS is a good gun right out of the box.
    Get the gun bedded by someone who knows how to do it right. There are a lot of amateurs out there that think they know how to do it right.
    Get the trigger redone and set and no lighter than 3.5 to 3.75 lbs. There is nothing wrong with a Remington trigger and once redone you will love the feel. Have a Badger Ordnance trigger guard installed. The Aluminum factory unit is junk at best. Put on a high quality one piece scope mount such as
    http://ironbrigadearmory.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=37
    and good set of rings with a quality scope such as a Leupold or Nightforce.

    Quality parts and work does not come cheap. If you get it done right the first time you will far happier than going cheap.

    As far as barrels go have fun with the factory supplied barrel. After 1000-1200 rounds or so go with a Hart, Shilen, Lilja, Krieger to name a few good barrel makers.

    Both my Remington .308 tacticals have Hart 26 inch Fluted SS barrels on them. Non Fluted are suppose to be a little more accurate but I like the look of the fluted barrel better. Both guns are far more accurate than I can shoot them so I'll never be able to tell the difference.

    As far as a good reloading book: I'm real happly with Handloading For Competition by Glen D. Zedike.
    I got the book from Sinclair International. http://www.sinclairintl.com/index.html
     
  21. redneck2

    redneck2 Member

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    FWIW...before I got too crazy doing a lot of stuff I'd shoot it. I just sighted in my Rem 700 .223 lightweight this past week-end. Off a not-so-steady bench I got some 3/4" 3 shot groups. Some factory barrels are good, some bad. One way to find out.

    Maybe it'll shoot .5", maybe 2.5". Won't know 'til you try. I got the adjustment instructions for Remington triggers off one of the sniper websites. Pretty easy to do and takes maybe 10-15 minutes.

    Look at the "factory rifles" forum at http:www.benchrestcentral.com. You'll find out all you want to know.
     
  22. Charles S

    Charles S Member

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    In a letter I recently answered a question that was very similar to yours; here is the letter.

    (Name removed)

    I do highly recommend the Remington 700. I would say mine is my favorite rifle. If you are interested in making your Remington 700 a shooter I would recommend customization in steps. I recommend this method because it will save you money and time.

    First pick the Remington 700 you like and the one that fits your perceived needs best.

    I personally think the new 700 CDL stock fits me very well and it is also a very attractive rifle.

    If you prefer a Monte Carlo stock go for the BDL.

    Stainless has obvious advantages.

    If you prefer a target rifle Remington has several exellent models.

    The one I really like right now it the 700 Mountain rifle. If you are going to carry the rifle a lot consider this option.

    The first accessory to purchase is good optics and good bases and rings. I highly recommend that you spend as much money as you can afford on the Scope. In my opinion the cheapest decent scope available is the Leupold VX II if you can swing it the VX III is better, consider good rings and bases like Leupold, Warne ext.

    Customization:

    Start with a trigger job with the trigger set as light as you are comfortable with. No more that 3.3 pounds (1500 grams). Consider having the crown re-cut. This is inexpensive and generally will help the rifle shoot better.

    Shoot the rifle, most Remington rifles will shoot quite well with only this work. Try several different loads.

    If you require more accuracy then have the action bedded and the barrel free floated about 80/1000.

    This will generally provide a rifle capable of shooting .750 inch center to center 5 shot groups. If more accuracy than that is required be prepared to spend more money.

    I highly recommend a good sling and a good lock able hard case.

    First spend money on optics and the trigger job, then ammo before you decide to spend any additional money on customizing the rifle.

    Good luck,

    Let me know if you need any additional information. I hope this helps.

    Charles
     
  23. Beethoven

    Beethoven member

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    I've read that you shouldn't shoot more than 20 rounds or so (1 box) per session if your objective is accuracy, especially with heavier calibers.

    If you are really doing things right and taking your time, it should take you close to an hour to shoot those 20 rounds (including cease-fire times, so maybe less on an open range) and after that much recoil and time, you aren't performing optimally anymore.

    Just something I read.....
     
  24. USSR

    USSR Member

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    In F Class competition, we have to shoot 20 rounds + sighters (usually 5-10 rounds) within 30 minutes. Aside from the pure accuracy factor, this is one of the biggest benefits of shooting a stick with a custom barrel. A high quality barrel by the better barrelmakers will maintain their accuracy for far longer than a factory barrel, which will fill with copper sooner and cause accuracy to go south.

    Don
     
  25. KC&97TA

    KC&97TA Member

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    Huh? I was told all that needed to be done to a .308 700 PSS was a trigger job (on the rem trigger), good optics, harris pod, federal match ammo and some time behind the but stock, to achive sub-MOA out to 1000 yards.

    Don't get wrapped up in wanting to modify things right away, trigger job, a few hundred rounds and then evaluate the situation. Most rifles will out shoot the guy behind the stock, alot of guys toss money into rifles, were they just needed more patience and practice.
     
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