Remington 700 ADL Trigger Guard

[Alaskamike]

I recently got a good deal on a Remington 700 ADL. In replacing the stock trigger with a Timney trigger, I realized the trigger guard is plastic. (I'm not at all familiar with Remington 700s, so please go easy on me)

I see that Pacific Tool & Gauge has both anodized aluminum, and steel trigger guards. However, they caution that because they make their parts to tighter tolerances than factory, the trigger guard may not be a "drop in" install.

In the past I've done my own minor fitting of 1911 parts, but that caution on the trigger guard makes me a little nervous. It makes me think the bolt holes may not line up perfectly with the receiver holes. For those of you who have installed these parts from this company, did you have any trouble, and/or did you have to do anything unusual to get the bolts to thread in properly?

Part of me thinks their caution statement is kind of a boiler plate disclaimer, but because I have no experience with them I thought I'd ask here for those who have direct experience with them before I spend money.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

 

[troy fairweather]

At worst you may have to just open the slot up with a file, look on ebay/gun broker you may find a factory metal one but they usually go for decent money. Someone on here may have a extra laying around. Your stock I'm guessing is synthetic to?

 

[Alaskamike]

At worst you may have to just open the slot up with a file, look on ebay/gun broker you may find a factory metal one but they usually go for decent money. Someone on here may have a extra laying around. Your stock I'm guessing is synthetic to?

Yep it's a synthetic stock. And that makes a lot of sense--worst case a few seconds with a rat tail file should take care of it. Hopefully that wouldn't be needed though.

 

[LoonWulf]

I have at least one metal guard for the adls, but i modified it for something else. Drilled out the front screw hole i think.....id have to go look.
Your welcome to it if you want tho.

 

[Steve S.]

I recently did a CDL (.243.) conversion from the factory wood to a B&C stock, Red Hawk bottom metal and a new Timney trigger. The Timney was a “drop-in” on the bottom of the receiver (sans some minor playing with bolt release lever and spring to get it reliable). The Red Hawk bottom metal (aluminum) was black anodized and very well made/ finished but, it was not a drop-in fit. I had to remove some excess stock plastic residue (layered from the molding process) from around the aluminum pillar openings (front and rear) to get the bottom metal flush with the stock - the bottom metal sat proud to the stock by a wee bit at first fitting. Very simple go-slow process with a 90 degree curved-nose rasp. Scrap a tiny bit, check fit etc - was about three cycles of that process and the bottom metal was a perfect flush after 55 inch pounds on the front/ rear action screws. A very small amount of material was removed from the recesses - it was very simple. The perimeter footprint of the stock snd the bottom metal was perfect as they arrived - no fitting what-so-ever was necessary - only the small depth adjustment as mentioned earlier - again, very simple.

Believe it or not, my biggest headache was getting the darn thing back together - coordinating the magazine sleeve sliding into the slit in the bottom of the receiver opening and the bottom metal footprint with some tight tolerances was a bear but once aligned properly, a perfect snug fit.

Since you are working with an ADL and just a trigger guard, your task should be a breeze - I would not have any worry at all about fitment.

 

[Steve S.]

BTW, I forgot to mention the conversion resulted in a rifle that was a tack driver at 100 yards with my hand loads - a 1/4” rifle - I was very lucky and very pleased. The Timney trigger made a huge difference relative to the factory trigger - the factory trigger was (let’s say) less than desirable to work with. Good luck with your project.

 

[badkarmamib]

I recently got a good deal on a Remington 700 ADL. In replacing the stock trigger with a Timney trigger, I realized the trigger guard is plastic. (I'm not at all familiar with Remington 700s, so please go easy on me)

I see that Pacific Tool & Gauge has both anodized aluminum, and steel trigger guards. However, they caution that because they make their parts to tighter tolerances than factory, the trigger guard may not be a "drop in" install.

In the past I've done my own minor fitting of 1911 parts, but that caution on the trigger guard makes me a little nervous. It makes me think the bolt holes may not line up perfectly with the receiver holes. For those of you who have installed these parts from this company, did you have any trouble, and/or did you have to do anything unusual to get the bolts to thread in properly?

Part of me thinks their caution statement is kind of a boiler plate disclaimer, but because I have no experience with them I thought I'd ask here for those who have direct experience with them before I spend money.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

After my factory plastic guard cracked at the front bolt hole, I bought the aluminum one from PTG. I had the Timney trigger, which had a wider bow than factory. I had to open up the trigger opening with a file. Screw holes lined up fine. If you go this route, make sure to that your bolt release lever is not binding, that took a little more filing.

 

[Hookeye]

My plastic ADL.trigger guard cracked. Got a steel one off Ebay. Gunkoted it, been fine. Was a few years back.

 

[jmr40]

Timney triggers are usually a bit wider than factory. You'll likely need to file a tiny bit of material off the trigger guard to get it to fit.

If it ain't broke I'd use the plastic trigger guard. Most of them are tougher than aluminum.

 

[LoonWulf]

Timney triggers are usually a bit wider than factory. You'll likely need to file a tiny bit of material off the trigger guard to get it to fit.

If it ain't broke I'd use the plastic trigger guard. Most of them are tougher than aluminum.

They newer Timneys ive used have been thinner than the old ones. The only issues ive found is if the action sits low or the bottom metal high, and the casing hits the bottom metal.
The plastic guards are tougher than the aluminum ones in impact, but suck to tension the action screws against as the holes stretch and will often crack along the mold lines if taken to higher than average torque

 

[Alaskamike]

Great info--thanks very much for the replies!

The Timney "Elite Hunter" that I installed didn't require any surgery at all to the trigger guard, and I'm very happy with the crispness and weight of the pull.

I guess for now I'll just leave the plastic trigger guard in, and if I have any problems I'll order a steel one from Pacific Tool & Gauge.

 

[Rob96]

I recently installed a Timney Elite Hunter trigger on my ADL and switched the whole thing over to a Magpul Hunter stock with AICS magazine kit. No issues.

 

[JDeere]

I just put a Timney in my old Model 700 from the 60s. I had to do a little in-letting inside the wood stock for the safety to move freely. I have never replaced any of the trigger guards even when replacing the cheap synthetic stocks with bedded stocks. I torque em to specs and so far so good...